bmhor

With the facilities and experience you have between you, you should be able to do the rechassis in a weekend including rebushing all the radius arms, A-frame etc. and fitting new brake pipes, dampers etc. If you do the chassis change 1st, then the hard top to soft top conversion the job will be MUCH easier as you can lift the body in one lump. I've done a couple now in the garage at home and the best result with a 90 has been 40 man hours..... Any questions please ask. Bob

Thanks for the reply's guys. Ralph, as I am not fortunate enough to own that new a vehicle, I can use an "analogue" tacho (round paper disc one) As I mentioned in my question, this is due to a change in occupation so there MAY be money involved hence the request. Having spent a long time investigation the legal situation, I've been informed by VOSA, that providing I continue in the same line of work I do not require a tacho BUT I must comply with driving hours regulations and as I'm very bad at remembering to write things down a tacho is the answer if I can find a 2nd hand kit that I can install myself. As it will not be used for speed recording the calibration is irrelevant at the moment. Bob

Due to a change in job direction I now have the occasional need to tow trailers which require the fitting of a tacho to my 110 CSW. At the moment it does not need to be calibrated as I want to use it to record driving hours but I want to be able to get it calibrated in the future, hence this post. Has anyone fitted a tacho to a 110 and if so what is required for the job (apart from the tacho head!) and does anyone know of a second hand 12v kit? Sorry if this in the wrong place. Bob

Sorry for the grass but nothing available to pull it out at the moment.

I'll post photo's later but I build one several years ago based on the back 1/2 of a 90 chassis and a shortened 110 HiCap body. Just made an A frame and fitted a NATO hitch, sound easy when you say it quickly..... Still going well and having the same track as the 90 tows very well on and off road. Bob

There are 3 issues here: The diff is not a problem and will bolt straight in. 1/2 shafts from a 90 axle will not fit an "early" R/R casing due to differences in drive flange sizes and bolt sizes but if you pay the shipping from Edinburgh, you welcome to a pair of R/R shafts. The R/R axle casing will bolt it but you will have to use the 90 Radius arms as the R/R arms have a smaller pin dia. where they go onto the chassis and you may find that the R/R shock absorbers are one to the front and one to the rear where as the 90 is both forward. This is easy to cure with a grinder and welder and easy to do before fitting axle. Hope this answers some of your questions but ask if there are more. Bob

Hi Dave, Have a look at http://www.bmhor.org under steering bearings for a detailed break down of how to change them and drop me a PM as I have new top and bottom bearing sets in stock. Bob

Thanks for this input guys but I've just realised that I've talking pooooo. The design is to allow 2 "bundles" of pipe each 1t on each shelf so 1 will probably be tight to the rear with the other split to the front. Chris "Just to clarify, the 1650mm is the base, the 1000mm are the shelfs to be stacked on and the 2700mm is the verticle support? Also is the 1000kg load to be a point on the end of the shelfs or a evanly distributed load" Apart from my "error" above, yes Steve The pins not going back "should" not be a problem as there's only 2 people who work there and they're both aware of their vulnerability when they split a pack.. I'm guessing from your calc's Chris that if i went to 80X120x3 box with an overlap joint to the upright and gusset plates at 150x150 and 4 supports that should do the job? How about tying them together or leave them free standing? Bob

Thanks for this Dave, As the shelves are to be loaded with a forklift, I'm planning removable front stops to reduce the chance of a bundle snagging on the way on or off. Bob

I've been asked to weld up a rack for holding lengths of steel pipe but I'm not sure what size or type of material to use. Any questions please ask. Here's the details. (max height is because its to be "hidden" between 2 buildings) Thanks Bob Visio_steel_rack.pdf

I used to use motorcycle NGK plug caps on my V8 coupled with some cable that was designed for neon shop window signs. (Double silicon insulated) That setup survived some serious submarine moments... Bob

Tata looks at Land Rover The BBC says that the boss of India's Tata Group told Indian TV he is interested in buying Land Rover and Jaguar. Ford has said there is a more than 50% chance it will sell the two companies. More from www.bbc.com [http://rs6.net/tn.jsp?t=ozrx4dcab.0.gqyw4dcab.ih5kaacab.1208&ts=S0276&p=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bbc.com%2F] ................................................................................ .............................................................................

I'm going too. Not to compete, mores the shame, but I'm driving one of the rescue ambulances.. Big red 130 with LOADS of toys!!! Bob

Well the secret's out now as Earl and Si were poking about the garage at the weekend. The brakes are done, some more of the body's been rubbed down and most importantly, I've turned it around again! At present I'm stuck for a couple of bits, the header rail for the softtop on a 90/110 together with the bits above the doors and an old 110 canvas to modify, so if anyone could help............... Bob

Thanks for the info guys. I'd been offered a set but I think I'll let them pass. Anyone got a set of 303 axles lying about? Bob

Does anyone know whether 404 axles can be fitted to a 90 or will be wasting my time? Bob

Looks like a std R/R EFi filter to me Si. Local parts store should be able to help. The thing next to it is the fuel pump (just incase you did not know..) Have you checked the output from the pump, that might be the cause of your problems. Bob

Thanks for the input Geoff, the laptop does have a serial port and the software is designed for use with windows. I'm fairly certain that there is a connection problem somewhere hence looking for the wiring diagrams. Bob

The full story's here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14583 but any help would be appreciated. Thanks Bob

The story is that I've just bought a P reg 3.9 Disco fitted with Tarterini Etagas LPG kit but it won't run on gas. I have the software and programming lead for the system but the laptop does not see the ecu. Does anyone have, or know where I can get, a wiring diagram for this gas system as I suspect that there might be a wire off somewhere. I've tried the company who's details are on the car but they were worse than useless, several other (well known) companies have promised to call me back but hey, its only been 2 months......... so here I am asking where I should have asked in the first place. This system would also have been fitted to R/R's so info from one of those would be a help as well. Any help/info appreciated. Bob

Dirk The part number for the V8 Defender temp sender is PRC 2506 Bob

Take some wheels and make the chassis into a rolling chassis then fit the engine/gearbox. Even just sitting there with ratchet straps below to support gbox etc. works and makes moving it a shed load easier.

Well I got 3 in, but which "prat" designed that engine! How the heck are you supposed to change #2 heater plug, short of removing the injector pump? Does start a lot better though. Thanks again for the help. Bob

Some more info for you guys. If you use the 5spd LT77 gearbox from a circa. '85 R/R (the gear stick configuration is the same as a 90) there are no tunnel modifications needed when you use the existing 90 gearbox mounts. Propshafts remain the same as well. Fit the R/R V8 engine mounts 1.5" further back than fitted on the R/R and the engine/ gearbox will drop in. Use the V8 and LT85 from a V8 90/110 and you'll need the engine mounts, gearbox mounts, floor plates, transmission tunnel and seat box from the donor vehicle but the engine mounts will be in the right place! Unless you want to cut the seatbox etc. don't use the "short stick" gearbox from Disco's and later R/R's as the gearstick ends up just at the front edge of the seat box. I've done several V8 conversions for friends so feel free to ask questions Bob

Hi Henry, Well you've not seen the stages for 2007 Scottish Hillrally yet..... The GlenAlmond might just give you a run for your money.. Imagine in tunnels being able to turn in your own length and miss all the trees that I normally hit.... Dream on! Now all we've got to do is rechassis Scuba's 110 next weekend, change the clutch on a R/R (was stripping that down outside last night in the snow ffffffffff'icking cold!) and finish putting the cage on Cam's 90..... Nothing a month of Sundays won't cure. Bob