cols110

Thanks Si, it has been a while. The old bus only gets driven occasionally nowadays & that is mainly to take the dogs to the desert for a run which is why I rarely post here as not much goes wrong with it sitting in the drive way waiting for its weekly drive.

Thanks Simon, I will check it out, I think it is but I don't think I have put a spanner on the nut to check tighten, I know it has never been loosened, but will give it a heave & see if it helps.

Interesting, thanks for info.

G'day all, it has been sometime since I have posted here but I am struggling with some ongoing steering issues I have been chasing for quite some time. My 110 has done a lot of hard off road use & now has almost 202 000km on the clock, the steering had quite bad vibrations & was wandering but is now almost right apart from wandering when coming lightly off the power at cruising speed. Full deceleration or under power is fine but when you come off the power just a little as when you come over the rise of a hill or up to a vehicle in front who is going slightly slower it becomes vague & weightless as though the front axle is wandering. So far I have done the following, there is probably more I have done but forgotten to list. -New Super-pro bushes throughout the vehicle & on the front radius rods I fitted the new heavier duty SPF0195SK bushes -New A frame ball joint -New shock rubbers/bushes & the shocks are in good condition -New drag link & track rod ends -New steering box drop arm ball joint -Rebuilt swivel housings, new genuine pins & bearings, preload correctly set without wiper seals in place -Steering box adjusted, there is no abnormal play between the steering wheel & the wheels, it all seems very direct on the ground & on jacks, with one wheel on the ground & one wheel off, I cannot find any play anywhere. -Wheel bearings adjusted several times -Tracking C/O after the swivel housing & track rod ends replaced etc -OME springs with about 40mm lift, noting over the top & not castor corrected but when I lifted it many years back it was not wandering. -Bilsein steering damper about 60k old but seems OK -Tyres, 285/75/16 BFG A/Ts with not a lot of use, tied different tyres pressures When I lever the pan hard rod ends & the radius arms for movement they seems about right & what you would expect with movement within the bushes, the movement is similar to my G Wagon which steers perfectly. I would replace the steering box if I though it was the issue but it seems pretty good no matter how I check it, from the steering wheel down or the wheels going back to the steering wheel, on & off the ground, one wheel on the ground the other off. There is some back lash in the front diff & transfer box but about what you would expect & no noticeable lateral movement in the front pinion bearing. I am scratching my head now of what to check next, something is not quite right but I am not sure what would give the weightless feeling when easing of the power, I can normally counteract my driving style by removing my foot from the throttle or applying power. It is not a smooth way to drive & it is not how it should be I would also be worried about letting anyone else drive the vehicle who is not ready for it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

If I have to go to the trouble of shipping one out here to Dubai to test with I would probably rather just get a new one & be done with it, as you do not know what is wrong with the second hand one either.

I just popped the lid & can see no obvious damage, there are a few imperfections on the board but I think these are probably from manufacture. I wish there was an obvious fault as I would then just go & buy a new ECU and be done with it.

Will do mate, that was on my list to do, will keep you updated.

OK I think I may have found the problem, I was playing around with the circuit tests on HawkEye which I didn't do before on my bucket of bolts and when I do the CM test it throws up a CM ROM CHECKSUM ERROR. I am no expert on computers but to me that would be an ECU fault unless some else knows different.

Done all that mate, the plugs are spotless, I also replaced the injector loom about 40 000km ago due to oil contamination.

Thanks mate, sadly I cannot do the driving thing as with the hard fault the engine is permanently stuck at idle with the management light on.

I found a few spare hours this afternoon & spliced in a new loom from about 6 inches either side of both plugs & sadly there is no change, the fault is exactly the same as are the 3 codes spat out by HawkEye. When I ran a meter over the wires all of the reading were the same as well & the same with the driver demand voltages read from HawkEye. With a new potentiometer & loom all I can think of is an ECU fault unless some else can think of anything else which relates to 3 x driver demand faults.

Thanks all, when I get some spare time next week I will rewire the loom, as then it will isolate that as a possible cause if it does not help. I have some 5 core wire ready to go. Will keep you updated on how it goes. Si, I compared both my new & old pots with a meter & they were both similar readings so I guess I have a spare pot if ever I need one.

Si & Ally thanks for the suggestions, I will look into them tomorrow, I had been holding off splicing a new section into the loom as it seems to check out OK with the meter, but I suppose if I do that it will either cure the fault or confirm the loom is good.

Thanks Steve, yep it is a 3 track pot & so is the new one, I did as you suggested & changed it to a 2 track & back again, after clearing the faults the DD faults did initially clear but after start up the same faults returned again. I also have this thread running on an Australian forum and someone has posted their HawkEye readings & they are quite similar to mine. With the engine not running I took the following reading with moving the accelerator pedal, -Driver demand 1, 0.98, flat to the floor 4.68v -Driver demand 2, 4.08v, flat to the floor 0.45v -Driver demand supply 0v, flat to the floor 10.0v So it does seem to me everything is working correctly which is a problem.

G'day All, I have had an ongoing driver demand fault issue on my 2002 TD5 for the last couple of weeks which I cannot get to the bottom of. I now have the Engine Management Light come on a few seconds after start up & thats how it stays, I am also unable to take the engine off idle. A few weeks back it started getting a slight miss around some left hand corners , then a week or so later after it had had a miss when I next went to idle that is where it would stay & the engine management light would come on, you could usually clear the fault by turning the engine off then on again but now it is a hard fault that will not clear. I suspected either a wiring or accelerator pedal potentiometer issue. I have just purchased a HawkEye to help with the issue & I had many different codes relating to multiple items so after clearing all the codes I am now left with the following codes. -3165 Faults detected with driver demand -3141 Driver demand has been faulty -3166 Inconsistencies found with driver demand I have fitted a new accelerator pedal/potentiometer, nil fix or change. After inspecting the engine harness from the ECU as best I could I can find no obvious damage to the looms or plugs. A wiring check with a good quality Fluke meter detected no open circuit between the ECU & the potentiometer plugs, the resistance on the 2 earths was a little high which traced back to the earth post below the ECU, so I ran a new heavy wire to the post from the battery & it solved the slightly high resistance problem to the ECU & pedal but did not make any difference to the main problem. At the potentiometer plug I seem to have the correct readings as well.(These figures are similar with the engine running or with the engine off and the ECU powered). -Pin D, earth good -Pin G, earth good -Pin B, 5.022v (ECU supply) -Pin J, 5.022v (ECU supply) -Pin F, 0.020v -Pin C, 4.977v -Pin K, 4.970v When you move the accelerator pedal you see the voltages change as you could expect on pins F, C & K, the supply voltage remains stable & 5.022v. The driver demand voltages from HawkEye with the Engine running, -Driver demand 1, 0.94v -Driver demand 2, 4.12v -Driver demand supply 0v From what I can determine so far everything seems OK apart from HawkEye telling me the "Driver demand supply is 0V" which is incorrect as I have confirmed with a meter I am getting 5.022v. To me this is starting to look like an ECU issue where the ECU is supplying 5v but not sensing it. Sadly I don't have access to spare ECU to try for troubleshooting out here in Dubai. Does anyone have any ideas of what else to try or what else it may be before I get another ECU or send mine to the UK for testing & possible repairing. If it is my ECU does anyone know who can test & repair the ECU in the UK.

G'day Ralph, glad to see your still around and posting as promptly as ever. I might have to go that way mate, I am blowing the budget on the engine rebuild and adding a few extras like a VNT turbo and a few other goodies as well, so if I can save few quid here and there I will, but it looks like I might have to shout it a new cooler which seems a total waste as the matrix looks like the cheapest part of the assembly.

G'day all, I havn't posted on here for a while but my TD5 is in dire need of an overhaul as it is in a fairly sad state of repair after much use and abuse, I am also doing some preventative maintenance whilst the engine is out and in pieces. My oil cooler is OK but there is a bit of discolouration on the matrix with a bit of pitting as well, I know these have a history of failing from time to time and am looking into replacing it whist the engine is apart. A new oil cooler assembly is roughly 250 quid which seems a bit of a waste to replace the whole assembly when only the matrix is corroded, does anyone know of a replacement matrix or do you need to replace the assembly in its entirety. Any ideas or info will be greatly accepted. Sorry can a mod please edit the "Oil" in the topic header, thanks.

Next time mate. Was keeping my eye out for you over the weekend, but sadly did`nt manage to catch up with you.

I made it to Billing for the first time in a few years, and the show seemed pretty quite compared to what it used to be. There were a few traders who were missing that I would have like to catch up with but must have been up in Newark, but over all it was still a very good weekend, the organisation, security etc were 100% on what it was 4 years ago when I was last there, no pikey`s etc which was a real bonus. I heard from a few traders that there were a few light fingered punters, but I guess that goes with the territory at a big show like Billing. It was good to catch up with a few friends I hav`nt seen in 3-4 years, the crowd at X-Eng were as hospitable as ever and invited me in for a few drinks on Saturday night which was good, but sadly they have moved on from times of old, where a night enjoying a few drinks also involved blowing things up, from inner tubes to plastic coke bottles. All in all, I had a thoroughly enjoyable weekend and look forward to the next one.

I had`nt really thought about buying a Nanocom until now, but the more I think about the better the idea is sounding. I might start looking into one before my next gremlin comes along.

OK time for an update. Things went from bad to worse, on the way home from work the other day the engine cut out 3 times and after leaving it sit for 5 or so minutes I was able to coax it back into life before the battery went flat. I pulled the injectors out and could`nt find any obvious marks of any blow by on the copper washers which depressed me no end as I was hoping to find a confirmed problem. The 5 O rings were in perfect condition and still soft pliable so as I decided to re-use them all as I only have 2 new ones. Fitted the 5 new copper washers bolted it all back together again and after its first start where I had disturbed the fuel system it now starts perfectly hot and cold, something it has not done for months now and it runs much smoother with noticably more torque, so I think they had been deteriating for a long time and slowly sapping more and more power. So 2 fuel pumps and 5 copper washers later it looks like I might have finally fixed it. I have 3 new O rings coming up from Cape Town tomorrow which will give me a complete set and I am going to buy 5 spare copper washers as well so if for some reason they fail again I will have all the spares on hand. I will also keep an eye on the oil level to make sure there is no fuel leaking past the old O rings into the engine oil. Thanks for all the help and advice, as usual it is greatly appreciated.

OK so far I have managed to get my hands on 5 washers and 2 O rings, I think I can get hold of 2 more O rings but that still leave me short 1 which is a bummer. Steve thanks for the offer mate, but I have got them on order at our local dealer who should have them in within the next 2 weeks and we have friends coming back out here from the UK on the 13th so I might mail order some of them to our friends in the UK which will be more reliable than relying on our local stealer and our abysmal postal service.

Fantastic thanks for your input all. I will make sure I replace them both even if it means delaying the job for a couple of weeks to get the copper washers as well as the O rings. BM, as you say it is very intermittent some times it starts perfect as was the case when I replaced the fuel pump but this morning it took ages to go, then when I was parking it at work I stalled it and could not start it again and gave up before I flattened the battery and ended up pushing it into a car parking space, you could hear air bubbling around the fuel filter and the pump changing tone, so there is definately air or similar in the fuel system, this afternoon it started pretty well after a couple of seconds cranking, other than these seals I am a bit lost to what to go for next. Thanks again for all your info.

G`day all, I am still having fuel issues, it now seems that I am probably getting air into my fuel system via the lower injector O rings. Has anyone replaced these before and if so is it a major job, do the injectors come out OK or do they normally give you grief, the last thing I want to do is bugger up an injector. It looks straight forward enough after removing the rocker shaft, is there likely to be any other seals etc that I may need to get before replacing them. How long would it take to do the job for the first time. My other issue is I am having trouble sourcing the new seals there are copper washers and an O rings to replace, the copper washer does not look like they are a crush washer so would it be a problem if I just replaced the O rings and reused the old copper washers. Our local dealer is quoting 2 weeks before they have more in stock, there are a few other place I need to check tomorrow to see if they have stock of them but I am not feeling hopeful, my other option is getting them couriered out from the UK if I need to but I would rather not do this unless I have to. Thanks

Rear locker, 10psi, on the rev limiter in 3rd low hit a tuft of carp in my run up trying to climb a decent sized sand dune(to help secure another vehicle that was about to roll down the face) got airbourne and when I landed it went bang.