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ob1

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  1. Dagsê waar in die land is jy? Only two good things that comes out of Stellenbosch. 1) Wine 2) Female students that had two or three glasses of said wine Steytler how are things going with the conversion? I have a late S2A with a Ford 3.0 V6. I am also more a diesel guy, and plan on using it for short commutes. If we go into the bush I can haul it there on an Aframe with the Outback 3.0. I have an option for a 5 main bearing 2.25 diesel with suffix C main gearbox. But those are apparently even worse than the 2.25 P. That is really getting down on power even on my standards. Where did you get a 200 Tdi? I have been looking but could not find. If I do this conversion, it would be 300 Tdi just because it is more available.
  2. Thanks all. Good news Need to spend more time in the series forum
  3. Strange request I know. I am getting a S2A 88 It is a project vehicle. It will hardly ever go on the open road, just some town driving. If we go into the bush I will likely hitch it to the Subaru on an A-frame. My long term goal would be to get it as close as possible to original. Not concourse condition, but at least with a Land Rover diesel. I prefer diesel over petrol any way. Problem is that the original 2.25 is very scarce in South Africa. If you find them they are in concourse vehicles, or rusted away in the seller's yard long ago. We also never really got the 2.5 NA diesel. Lots of guys removing 200 and 300 Tdi's in favor of cheap imported Lexus (yuck) VVTI V8's. These motors come in from Japan, and can be had for a song. It is so popular that a couple of engineering firms now have an off the shelf adapter plate to the R380 I am weary what the Tdi will do to the running gear of a standard Series. It is the original 4sp gearbox (was it LT75?) There is a Salisbury at the back so that helps, but still. Plus the physical room in the engine bay. I don't want to bring the grille forward and loose the series nose. So what about sourcing a tired 200 Tdi, redo everything inside. Then set it up to run without turbo. Is it possible? What would it entail? What would be needed? I suppose new intake and exhaust manifold? New diesel pump or restrict the flow somehow to add less diesel to less air in combustion? Would direct injection work without a turbo? Thanks
  4. Thanks Bill for sharing your encyclopaedic knowledge
  5. Question on the walking beam setup. If one had the two rear axles mounted directly to the chassis on air bags. Then connect the left two bags, and the right two bags together with a large diameter pneumatic pipe. Would that not provide a good walking beam effect? As soon as the middle left wheel goes under compression, the air travels to the rear left and pushes harder down on it.
  6. That is why I am asking regarding the 6peed from the Puma. Sourcing a D3 Manual is just about impossible. They sold it with some of the early 4.0 Ford V6 petrol Disco3's. Very scarce. Plus it does not fit on the LT230. If adapter plate is to be made I want it between the motor and box. Is that 380 in metric or Church of England?
  7. I am now at a point where I can start calculating cost. Competition truck, tdv6, manual. Idea is to get an old tired Td5 110 hard top, put in a TDV6 For engine management I am looking at either http://www.twinkam.co.uk/shop/page/8?sessid=f4AuwHzbn2d89l3F52m2M3OFKoB7ZbjGBZQwffWvJQsUozwnkgIEaBhuBvf2s83H&shop_param= or http://www.bodylogicuk.com/90265/info.php?p=10&cat=327154 My adapter plate will have to be made locally, also modified input shaft, clutch etc. My question is if the R380 will do OK or will a 6speed Puma box be better? Thinking towards a Richards 100" chassis, not sure about the rest of the drive train and suspension yet
  8. I got myself a Nanocom evolution. Worth the price. I established the normal lock on both the rear doors does not work. Only superlock. What are the chances of it not being the actuating motor? Dont want to replace and find it is something else... Thanks
  9. OK so tested all actuators, they work. Now the BCU. This is an expensive difficult route, new VIN programming etc, I spoke to a guy that recon that the BCU could be reprogrammed, it might be that it got confused with voltage spikes and is not unlocking the rigth doors at the rigth time. Any toughts?
  10. Battery replaced, locks checked. All actuators working as it should. I also had the aftermarket immobiliser removed, suspected that could have had a negative influence, it was trying to work with the central lock. All out of ideas, I suspect the BCU module might have been damaged during the battery empisode, some spike somewhere. Replacing with new is unaffordable. How can one replace with secondhand? They sell under $100 us on ebay. Is there another way to reset/flash the existing BCU?
  11. Discovery2 V8 busy with a coolant flush. I really struggle to reach the engine block coolant drain plug on the driver side. It is hiding behind the starter and its heat shield. Is it possible to remove the heat shield, or must it be both the shield and starter motor. Please advise how to? Looking from the bottom the front prop shaft is in the way Unless there is another way to rinse out the block using some gentile pressured water....
  12. Digging an older thread. Recently purchased a D2 V8 Auto. 2000 XS Perfect condition, untill our cold weather started messing with the battery. Existing one was 94 amp, but aparrently specified is 102 amp now fitted. Since the battery started giving issues teh central locking also started. 1) First unlock unlocks driver and two rear passenger door. Front passenger and tail door remains locked; 2) Second unlock all 4 front doors open, tail door remains close. 3) Tailgate remains closed no matter what you do, it pops out if you open it from the inside. 4) When I start driving, the front two doors lock, not the rear passenger 5) When I lock remotely everything that was open locks just fine. I read the above comments, understand that it is probably a few actuators/locks that could be the problem. But before I start to throw money at it: Considering the battery issue could the settings not have been messed up by the battery? I have a friend with Hawkeye diagnostics. Could one reprogram the settings? Thanks
  13. Thanks I am beginning to think it is the belt. I marked all pulleys with tipp ex, and the rotation of the pulleys does not correlate with the "frequency" of the sound. I also read up that a belt wih particles embedded on the grooves will make noise. So on a pulley that has been empty for 13 years there must be lots of rust and carp that could have embedded in the belt. Will be fitting slightly shorted and new belt after cleanign the crank and fan pulley
  14. Over the past few months lots of time spent on the project. I now have the ACpump fitted from a Td5. 2 other pumps did not work so 3rd time lucky. Only now it sounds like a tone deaf canary. I searched before posting, all the 300 Tdi threads are on the main belt. I am positive the pump is correctly fitted, and is running true. The current belt is a 1325 4pk britpart unit. The crank and fan pulley have the 4pk grooves that has been empty since new. The tensioner is from a scrapped Tdi, and I replaced the bearing before fitting it. No noticeable paly or axial movement. Fitted the tensioner is almost (but not quite) in its fully extended position I am getting a shorter belt The aircon compressor has a 7pk pulley but the 4pk fits with 3 empty grooves no problem. When the belt is not fitted there are no funny sounds from altinator PAS waterpump etc. But when it is on it makes a noise. It is not a screech like when a belt is slipping, sounds more like a bearing. Only none of the pulleys rotation correlate with the noise frequency. The belt is new. I doubt it is the AC, the bearing is good and the noise is there with it on or off I am checking the tensioner again expecially with a shorter belt. Dirt on the crank and fan pulley ??? What else? I am on my way to replace the AC ider beraring just to be torough
  15. Bunnymofo the oil will degenerate the rubber if I am not mistaken So I finally got everythinng in. The tank, check valve, the pressure swich, gauge, compressor, all the stuff needed. Imagine the dissapointment when I found out it gives air like an asmatic mouse suffering of emphysemia. The compressor is a Sanden SD6. 6 cylinder wobbly plate out of a Proton Savvy. I had it open, all the pistons and valves are good. When it runs with or without the clutch it also chirps quite a bit. Any ideas? I will Remove the comp tomorrow and put a tyre valve in to air it up at the nearest service station to check for leaks but I doubt it
  16. Nope. Swap the steering and keep the V8 as is, or transplant the 5door body from the V8 to the Tdi. At this point the body thing looks like the winner, the only basis for that is this guy in the middle east that did some stuff now the petrol price is going up again
  17. Have a 300 Tdi Hard Top since new. We are outgrowing the 3doors, a 5door SW setup would do nicely. I did get a 1989 V8 sw looking like it is in good shape, but is Lhand steering. The price is less than what I can get for my Tdi and has extras like AC that I dont have. Unfortunately we cant register Lhand drives in South Africa any more. What is harder: Converting to RHD or swapping the body? Thanks
  18. Thanks for the link Jon Some other interesting stuff on the site I need, like bulkhead connectors. Unfortunately all of them seem to be BSPP and all my existing fitings are tapered. Can you mix these or not? It is only on the quick coupler that I have this problem the rest of the fittings are sorted
  19. Got almost everything now. Pressure switch and gauge from Ebay arrived today Still short a tensioner for the aircon belt (hard to find believe it or not) and some odds and ends Next question is regarding the 1way valve. Someone mentioned a domestic water pipe valve will work. Will it be strong enough to withstand 145psi? Where can I source one? I find lots of hydraulic and pneumatic stuff on ebay. Normally in the US and since they dont know about the rest of the world's existance, they dont ship
  20. I am building an or-board air system driven from the crank. I have ono aircon so it is not that hard. The hardest part believe it or not is getting the tensioner. The new ones are expensive and in short supply. Secondhand ones are hard to come by, I have sourced a bracket. Will the normal altinator belt tensioner pulley and bearing fit? Any other ideas? Anybody willing to part with an extra tensioner and mail it to South Africa? Thanks
  21. I have got all the main parts together. Got a Sanden SD609 from a proton savvy made the engine mount (have no aircon so was easy) getting tentioner and serpentine belt this week. I am now shopping for the pipes fittings valves etc. My question is regarding the perssure switch. I found two types on ebay. What will be more suitable? My pressure switch will be under the loading bin of the Hard Top on the left hand side, in front of the rear wheel. Lots of dust and mud http://cgi.ebay.com/Air-Compressor-Pressure-Control-Switch-90-120-PSI-New-/270689749043?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f065dc833 or http://cgi.ebay.com/Air-Compressor-Pressure-Switch-90-psi-120-psi-/310237022307?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483b914863
  22. I tried contacting Red90 Has any body else squeezed a York under a Defender bonnet? I can get my hands on one, but want to know if it will fit between the mounting and the bonnet. This is on a 300 Tdi with no aircon
  23. There are guys that open and modify Sandens to run with grease. They replace the one plug in the crank part of the compressor with a grease nipple. Further, they will open the head and block a small hole of about 5mm with a screw. This hole lets oil trough. Here is the link how this Aussie did the setup with a Patrol 4.2 diesel http://www.grungle.com/endlessair.html
  24. Thanks all. The pin was stuck, some Q20 voila
  25. Hope I am not reposting, I tried the search. I am in the process of changing the locks on the rear door. I know you take the origional barrel out with the door key. I am not getting the thing out. Any ideas what I am doing wrong before I start using violence? Thanks
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