dwappat

Has anyone had any problems with the carcass cracking by the tread blocks causing air loss? My Tyres are barely two years old and have only covered about 1500 miles tops. The n/s/r kept going flat, so on pumping it up just now I had a good look to find air escaping when I pressed into the tread block where it met the carcass itself. Not overly impressed, but should I expect this from a Ronnie remould? Dave

Hi, Here are a few pictures of how my airbox is attached to the truck. Made from standard equipment. Regards Dave

Just to add a different way of fitting the filter housing when doing a discovery conversion. (the other pictures I think look like defender 200tdi engines with the raised turbo, rather than disco's low mounted one) Hope this helps Dave

A typo by me, I originally meant "extension part of the gearbox" not the transfer box, oops Thanks for the info though about the gearbox being in two pieces, I thought that the transfer box was the complete alloy piece and the gearbox was just the steel casting. Hence the mass confusion I had when removed the filter plug and ATF came out at a rate of knots down my arm!

Sorry, I meant that the 5 was the closest number to give a reference point for the cover plate I removed (it was a borrowed picture). The Number 3 is actually the gearbox filter cover that is removed with a 27mm socket in order to pull out a cylindrical filter that needs cleaning when changing the gearbox oil. True it does let a fair amount of ATF oil out too when removed, but that is the extension part of the gearbox, the cast steel part of the gearbox also has a drainplug and the filler plug Number 2 is the gearbox drain plug. 1 is the square filler plug. The piccie also shows where the steel and alloy parts of the gearbox meet

Apologies, I thought I had mentioned that the gearbox is the LT77. I researched the correct/best type of oil to put into the LT230 on this forum and the general concensus was that EP75/90 fully synthetic oil was good (bit of opinions regarding GL4 and GL5 type, but I took the risk anyways and went for GL5 spec) I have "Morris" Lodexol FS 75W/90 full Synthetic Gear Oil (LSF) in the transfer box and I have Comma AQ3 ATF in the gearbox.

Hi all, Need some advice please. I decided to change the transfer box oil yesterday as I thought that the cover plate was leaking, (it didn't click straight away that the oil drip on the lower section of the cover plate was red in colour and not clear). The oil drained well, removing and scraping the old gasket from the cover plate and corresponding area on the transfer box and cooing at the lovely gear type thingy's, marvelling that they all seemed to have their teeth remaining etc. After a applying new RTV sealant and re-fitting the cover plate (couldn't find torque settings for the 8 bolts locating it) I added the new Comma posh and v.expensive synthetic 75/90 oil. With everything all clean again underneath a quick test drive was carried out and to be honest, I couldn't tell any difference really (as much as I tried to convince myself that £33 for 3 litres of oil made the truck as quiet and smooth as my new Mazda 3 on the parkway! :-). Anyway, back at home I looked again underneath and noticed that the red ATF was back. It seems to be coming from the extension case part of the transfer box but not where it meets the LT77 but more to the right of the LT77 filter drainplug and the cover plate. Any ideas of what it is likely to be? Am I looking at having to split the transfer box from the gearbox or can the transfer box separate from the extension case? Bit confused as to how the gearbox is steel but the extension case is an alloy but all filled with ATF. Thanks Dave 3= filter drain plug (leak from higher up to the right and running down the cover plate to drip at point 5 (thanks to Difflock for the picture)

My Landrover 90 (1985) went through it's MOT no problems yesterday (except the n/s/f light had fallen out of the holder!) MOT guy said nowt about any new test standards to me. Dave

Hi there. I echo the advice given by the others on this thread. I went to Loughborough till 2003 and never realised that they had an offroading society or else I would have joined. No doubt you've already looked at what the other members have got and will be able to tailor a truck to your needs. Be prepared though, for a vrtually constant trickle of cash being spent from your wallet, as once the bug bites and you push your limits offroad, things tend to break,tear,leak,squeal,puncture, rumble and go bang! Happy Hunting, and if you can't find what you are looking for then a friend is potentially selling his Defender 90 (1986 D) with a Perkins engine conversion with some QT, X-Eng, Special track etc, goodies on-board. And if bodywork dents scratches (not chassis/bulkhead) is not a major concern then my own truck with 200tdi conversion could possibly be wrestled from my hands. Regards Dave

If the engine has indeed "hydraulic'd" as they say, then you'll probably have done more damage than the worth to repair. If you have an interest in stripping and re-building engines and have adequate tools etc, then it might be good to at least take a look for bent conrods and other bits like pushrods (if lucky). If you pay a garage to do it then you are almost better off sourcing a replacement engine and swapping it.

Note the ebay conversion pipework!!! complete with genuine look rust! took me ages to get the inlet pipe to look that original!!!!! :-)

Hi all, Just thought i'd snap a few shots of how I overcame the problem of locating the airbox during my disco to defender 200tdi conversion. hope some can find it useful. Regards Dave

The short answer to whether or not my steering wander has been cured.........Yes! :-) A big thankyou to Les and his swivel bearing replacement walkthrough, made life more simple and no snapped lower pin bolts for me!. Mind you my back is killing.....those swivel ball mounting bolts are blimmin tight.

I have had similar issues with my 90 over the past year or so and things have got better as I replaced various parts: These were: Trailing arms and bushes (poly), New Panhard rod and bushes, new steering damper, New radius arm bushes (poly) both ends (big difference). When doing these last week I noticed that the swivel bearings on the o/s/f hub were worn and allowing the hub to move independantly of any input from the steering wheel. This I suspect is a major contributing factor to the liftoff oversteer and so they are being replaced this weekend. I'll let you know if it cures my problems (am testing at Tixover I think on Sunday). Dave

Yes, Look in the technical section on this forum, there is a walk through with pictures etc. It was very useful when I did mine http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7880

I believe that they are both the narrow bushed ones, but as you said, they might be the small circumference body mount type at the rear. Am I able to buy the matching rear bushes for a Range rover and fit them to my 90?

Hi everyone, The bushes on the front Radius arms from my 1984 LR90 are very worn and need replacing. Instead of trying to struggle with removing the arms and then trying to fit the new urethane bushes to these,(all the while the truck is jacked up and not roadworthy) I had and ingenous thought (so I thought!!!!) of picking up a spare set of arms from a Range Rover Classic as I figure they are the same narrow gauge at the front. Have I been too hasty and acquired radius arms that wont fit my 90?

I must put up a photo of my air filter housing as it really is a very good fitment and looks factory. Originally I was looking to place it where the air-con pump was situated, but securing it was awkward. I (rather Bradley from SCS in Peterborough!) managed to locate it sideways on within the front n/s wing so that I can still easily change the filter without too much hassle. Am back in peterborough next week so will photograph it and post it on here.

I used the kit that sells on ebay, and other than the poor paint finish on the steel intake pipework which doesn't last and goes rusty relatively quickly, i've had no problems with the fitment. Saves hassle and his welding skills seem pretty good. Steve Parker on their advice sold me kit that was incompatible with the converstion I was carrying out so didn't buy any further kit from them. (Other people no doubt have had great experiences from that company though, so it's up to you)

You could carry out a voltage drop test along the starter circuit and back through the body of the starter motor where it earths through the engine block and back to the chassis through an earth strap. This could cause the starter to run slow. Try this website as it shows you how to do a voltage drop test. http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm Have you used a decent sized relay and correct fuse to switch the lights on?, or have you just wired the auxillary lights direct to the main lights? If the latter then i'd advise wiring through a relay or get an auto electrician to wire them up for you. It could be pretty dangerous if you've wired them up direct. It's all ohms/watts laws, get it wrong and it all can get a bit heated or random as far the wires are concerned. (unless your main lighting circuit fuse pops, thinking about it:-)

Mine is two years old and it too seems to rub abit.(probably due to me not using the truck other than for play and play days) all I have had to do is adjust the cable a fair few times and re-locate the cable onto a different hole on the lever arm (on the caliper). I thought the pads were worn but spoke to one of the company owners at the Peterborough show and he advised me very well, suggesting I undo the lever arm bolt a few turns and move it on the central spline so that the caliper mechanically moves more. Has been fine since. A great product from a highly innovative company whom seem to thoroughly test and over-engineer their products to ensure their reliabity. Nice to see such enthusiam, passion and total knowledge about the engineering side too. :-)

Its up to you but I doubt it's worth the hassle of changing mounts etc for the gains you'll get by having the 300. Just my two penny worth.