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Mr Harry

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Everything posted by Mr Harry

  1. Well power went and a burnt smell arose A look under the bonnet revealed that the wires to the starter had corroded/arced and parted company from their fastening at the solenoid Further investigate and it looks like the securing nut is corroded/ welded onto the post, and initial efforts to loosen it are making the post turn So.... When I fit new eyes to the cables, should I crimp them or is soldering a good idea? Any suggestion on how to clean up the ends for a good contact? If the nut remains stuck I was planning to just bolt the new ends on with another nut - any problems with doing that ? And finally, it the starter needs to come off what should I look to do to it before bolting it back on (if it's still working) Not sure what is serviceable Or should I just invest in a replacement ? Have time to do it, so just thinking of doing a belt and braces job, rather that racing to get back onto the snow
  2. Looks like the front ARB diff lock airline has chaffed through Once I've located the spare length to replace it, is there anything to be aware of when replacing it? The solenoid end is a push fit if I remember, so just pull out the old and push in the new. At the diff end I think its held in place by compression fitting, so again loosen, pull out the old, push in the new and tighten. Sounds simple, but have I got it right, or anything I have missed??
  3. Done a search, looked at the workshop manual and Haynes world, but all I can find are torque values for the rear shocks. Even then, they differ. Haynes has 82 Nm for top mounting nut and 75 Nm for lower mounting nut - which is confirmed in the 90/110 workshop manual For the rear shocks workshop manual (Defender 96/97MY) has 37 Nm for shock absorber to axle But nothing for the front I think I recalled a setting where it was done by measuring from the top of the shock pin to the top of the nut, but again no luck on that. So, anyone out there have any information/ suggestions Would like to get it right as it may have contributed to the lower shock mounts getting enlongated previously Old and new shocks are OME with ploy bushes
  4. Thanks for the offer, hopefully I won't have to take you up on that
  5. Got a few jobs to get done for the MOT, and having a job finding anyone able to assist 'on site' as it were. Would be easier to at least get the shock mounting done, or else it's putting it all together, drive it somewhere, and strip it all down again 1. Filling in on the lower front shock mounting, where the hole has elongated http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=54546&st=0&p=485422&fromsearch=1entry485422 2. Two holes that need plating on the sills in the second row seating area http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=54996&st=0&p=488652&fromsearch=1entry488652 3. Two holes to fill on the lower rear shock mountings. Set up for twin shocks, but the alignment is out, so thought redrilling would be the best way to sort it out. Not essential but thought it may be the best opportunity to get it done. Hopefully in time for a summer of fun Would have a go myself, but not the sort of jobs that suit my remedial welding ability I'm in East London, Hackney. Suggestions/ recommendations welcomed
  6. Thanks for that - I have did try the search function, but had limited success. Anyhoo, this points the way forward :) I guess a whole assembly is best as the m/c needs sorting anyway. Any suggestions for where would be the best place to source one of these? From what year are these available?
  7. Got a leak in the foot well from the clutch pedal, so looks like the m/c is on the list of jobs to do. However the original clutch pedal ('84 CSW) is very heavy to push down, so are there any solutions to improve this Holding it in traffic, or releasing it smoothly is a pain I'm guess just changing the m/c alone won't make a huge difference, so are the newer clutch pedals easier, if I look at changing the whole thing? Or are there any other options to make for a softer pedal? Have heard of helper springs, but not sure if these are suitable for the older clutch pedals
  8. Thanks for the info Should I be cutting back the rusty metal to weld the plate flush, or just tidy up the rusty metal and plate over the top Sorry for all the questions, but as people say this is an MOT fail, so I want to be sure I get it done right to pass - plus make sure it looks right and lasts
  9. Okay, so its another job on the welding list What can I do to prepare these bits? Should I cut back to the edges, or grind the area to bare metal for a plate to go on top? And what thickness/ size for the metal to use? Just want to get as much ready in advance, as I'm probably going to have a mobile welder in, so I'm guess they work on time, as these are small jobs
  10. Okay, 1 step forward, 2 steps back I've decided that the lower shock mounting needs to be welded, as now while its in bits is the best time - not later down the road, which could be a cold, wet, dark, remote and unfriendly one (can roads be unfriendly? I guess I can think of a couple that may have a grudge against me) Putting that job aside and looking at other things to do, I swept out the accumulated debris from the rear passenger foot well, and then went prodding with a screwdriver to shift some rust.....oh dear, either its a very strong screwdriver, or I've found more welding work. So, is it a MOT fail, or advisory notice? As far as the welding goes, is it a simple plating over job, or is something more required? The o/s photo has a crack in the metal, which maybe be nothing, but then again, maybe its a sign of something else. And the internal shot on the n/s is none too clever Thoughts/ suggestions welcomed (other than I'm a bad boy for neglecting all this, and I need to show much love and TLC now - I've made a start - new parts are gathering)
  11. Cor, this is going a bit slower than I planned Had a look for your thread Les, but all I can find is the tech one on replacing the mounting Location added, and as for the cobbling together of welding jobs, more on that when I've got the photos downloaded to the 'puter
  12. Hummm, Thanks for the info Thought that would be the answer and really, now is the best time to sort it. Problem is its on axle stands and I don't have a welder Is it something a mobile welder could be bother with Guess I'd better do some ringing around and see what they say....and have a look for any other jobs I could cobble together
  13. Just started the job of replacing the front shocks, after failure of the front n/s, and noticed that the lower mounting hole on the axle has elongated a little Would this have contributed to the old shock failing and will the new shocks be okay to fit in this, or does this need dealing with before I rebuild If I need to repair, does it need a replacement bracket, or can the hole be filled and redrilled? Just looking for advice to do the job right and avoid premature failure of the new stuff Planning ahead, as all the parts should be here for a fun Easter of rebuild
  14. 1. Make a hole in it 2. Stick a sensor for a capillary oil temperature gauge in the hole
  15. Well here is a photo of the offending oil seal and o-ring. Not much to make a clear diagnosis, especially as the oil seal looks worse from the removal process, than when sitting in situ. Some evidence of the o-ring failing, but as commented on by Les, that would not account for the amount of oil loss on its own Anyway, new parts going in this w/e, so hopefully the oil leak problem will be resolved The other photo is of the original crank sprocket and seal prior to removal, just for interest really. Miminal belt debris and wear and tear considering this was the first belt change in a new engine at 48,000 miles
  16. As you say Les, The seal is most likely the culprit, but nothing was apparent on a visual examination, and it was damaged during removal. The o-ring pops out so I checked that and found the shreds, but the source could be from elsewhere. I'll try to post some photos later of the bits in question. Any tips for getting the seal in without the specific tool? Location is difficult to get all around it, so want to be able to drive it in without damaging/ distorting it. The previous one went in okay, so I'm probably getting too anxious New cambelt on the way - as you say, for the cost, its not worth the uncertainty
  17. +1 ^^ In traffic, windows down provides some cooling breeze, but at a constant speed, the best option is windows up and vents open Driving in Africa, this was always the best method, as windows down would only bring the hot engine air straight into the cabin, heating all the metalwork on the way Trying using a thermometer to moniter the cabin areas, and check what works
  18. Well the cam cover is off again Outbound journey was okay, similar oil loss as noted before. However at a service stop on the inbound journey, glanced under the front and saw a steady flow of oil (engine still running) and shiny metal from oil splatter. Pressed on as the remaining part of the journey was 40 miles, with regular glances at the oil pressure and temperature gauges, but they kept steady and made it back without further anxiety. Checking the oil level later, and topping up took 1 litre to get it back up to the previous reading, mid point on the dip stick So should be okay re any serious engine problems? Stripping it down and examining the parts, I found thin strips/ bits of rubber behind the crank sprocket. The crank oil seal looked okay, but will get replaced. Looking at the o-ring, it looks like the damaged part, but why it failed, I'm not sure So new parts on route and hopefully a w/e of careful reassembly. Any suggestions of tips to ensure I avoid a repeat? The new parts will be genuine, but as the total mileage covered was approximatelt 300 mile, I'm sticking with the same tensioner, idler and crank sprocket. Should the oil seal sit flush in the casing, or be sunk in a little? Is the cambelt okay to refit, or should I replace it? It all seemed to go well the first time, so I'm just looking to check I'm doing everything I can to avoid another timing rebuild until a more reasonable time/ mileage has elapsed.
  19. Latest issue of LROI has an advert for a replacement LT230 tx box cover, which claims to improve sealing, among other benefits www.rockymountainspares.co.uk Anyone able to verify this? Would replacing the standard gasket as part of the oil change help?
  20. Thanks Les, Think that looks like the way to go. European breakdown is all well and good, but I'd prefer to have it for something unexpected, not for something I thought was preventable
  21. Thanks for the speedy reasurance Les Part of me thinks fine, and part of me thinks I should strip it down at the next available opportunity. I had been feeling good having done the job, and got everything done right ( started first time), so it bugs me that I missed something, or fitted a duff seal. After this next trip, the next journey is a 3 week holiday driving around Europe, so it may just bug me too much to do that and always look in the engine bay to see glistening metalwork :( Should I decide to go for a strip down, now or later, what should I look at replacing - other than any seals that are leaking - should I check the belt is free of oil, or replace it anyway? Thanks.
  22. As above, did the timing belt change with new parts and seals on the crank and cover. That was a week ago, and since then I've driven for approximately 50 miles through regular traffic. Having a look underneath, just having done a journey, I noticed fresh oil dripped on the panhard rod. Looking above that I can see oil has come out of the drain hole on the timing cover. Not huge amounts, but stuff that was not there before, say half a teaspoon. So, it is possibly just some oil leaking as everything settles in, or am I looking at a strip down to trace the leak, as something has failed/ not been done right? The other thing is, I need to do a journey next week which will be 120 miles, then a week later coming back the same distance. Is it likely to be okay, or am I pushing my luck?
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