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scrumps

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Everything posted by scrumps

  1. Hi, My mate had this snag on his 300 TDi Disco the other week. Bought the "slipring/indicator repair kit" (STC 2910) from our local main stealers and fixed it in about half an hour. Only cost about £10 and sounds a lot easier than the above palava. Scrumps
  2. Hi, The half shaft seal should be fairly straightforward. Part No. is FTC4822 (IIRC) Here's how I did it recently:- 1. Take all the usual precautions - axle stands etc and remove the wheel from the offending corner. 2. Release the ABS sensor plug on the inner wing and pass the cable through the hole and release all the clips to the hub. 3. Unscrew the two bolts and release the brake caliper, remove caliper and pads and hang clear of the hub on a piece of rope/wire. 4. Undo the two bolts securing the caliper carrier and remove. 5. Undo the countersunk Phillips screw and remove the brake disc. 6. Undo the four bolts behind the hub assembly and tap out the hub and wheel bearing assembly. 7. Carefully remove the hub and halfshaft whilst threading the ABS wiring out as well. 8. Remove the old oilseal. 9. Tap in the new oilseal (make sure it's the right way round). 10. Re-assembly is the reverse of removal (so says Mr Haynes). 11. Once on it's wheels check the diff oil level. Hope this helps. Regards Scrumps.
  3. Hi, If no-one beats me to it, I'll check when I change my front hub / wheel bearing and CV this weekend. Scrumps
  4. Hi, TD5 G4 manual - 2750rpm = 70mph by speedo (68 mph by GPS). (Cruising speed on the M5 to work everyday !!!) Scrumps
  5. Hi Bear, Both !! I removed the other two fixings and got enough movement to see the problem then I used long nose Mole grips from the lower RHS to come up under the cover and grip the insert. Once the bolt loosened about 1/2 a turn it spun out with my fingers. Scrumps
  6. Hi, I had this problem recently. The bolt screws in to an insert in a small bracket on the o/s of the engine. The insert is only held with friction (serrated edge) and can come loose if the bolt is over tightened. I managed to get a small pair of mole grips under the cover to hold the insert and unscrew the bolt. I then welded the insert in to the bracket so it won't happen again. Scrumps
  7. Hi Rich, If I remember correctly, it was a case of remove the steering wheel and then slide the new bit over the column...but it was about a year ago so my memory might be a bit rusty. Scrumps
  8. Hi, You don;t say what sort of Disco you have but my mate has just had this with his N-reg 300TDi. He bought a new stalk and when we came to fit it we found the plastic "reset ring" around the column had shattered and wasn't able to "trip" the stalk anymore. Our local main stealer had a repair kit (can't remember the part no.) which was about £15. Might be worth removing the steering wheel and chacking before ordering a stalk. Hope this helps. Scrumps.
  9. Hi, Keep an eye on the PAS fluid level as I've just gone through this. Turned out my PAS pipes had turned into Weetabix and were leaking all over the front crossmember. Lovely job to do as they reside below the radiator/intercooler. Ended up being an all day job to replace them. Regards Scrumps.
  10. Hi, I buy my bulk stock for my Model Traction Engine(s) from Parkers (see above in this thread) but for small quantities I use Live Steam Models. Catalogue attached, I reckon you could use 1 1/4" x 5/8" steel @ £8.58 per meter (stock no. 09/1112) Regards Scrumps http://www.livesteammodels.co.uk/pdf/MES2010d.pdf
  11. Does anyone know if the lead needs to be a cable and what purpose it has? Hi, The "cable" (usually a bare metal braid) carries the earth connection from the fixed plate to the moving plate of the advance mechanism and is essential for the dizzy to work. Couple of other things to try:- 1. Is the coil connected the correct way round? Some coils (especially "sports coils") need to be the correct way round or the HT produced will be weak. (Bad experience with my MBG once!!) 2. Are the screws holding the module to the baseplate too long? If so these will limit the movement of the top plate (or increase friction making movement more difficult at low vacuum). At high vacuum the "pull" may overcome the friction and allow correct timing. Regards Scrumps
  12. Hi, Whoever you choose to re-gas your system should be asked to do a vacuum check first. I thought I had a problem on my MGZS but when the garage recovered the gas and applied a vacuum to the system it held for 30mins with no change. Obviously if no air was getting in, the gas shouldn't get out. This is the easiest way to prove if you have a leak (and it doesn't waste any gas). Scrumps
  13. Sorry, Missed that bit...I'll get my coat and never be seen around here again !!!! Scrumps
  14. Hi, Search "all categories" for "Discovery window regulator" and take your pick from the 93 that will currently pop-up Scrumps
  15. Hi, My mate hadd a similar snag on his N-reg 300TDi Disco. Turned out to be the swithces were corroded inside and full of crub/fuff. Try swapping the front switches to the rear in the centre console and see if they work. With (very) careful use of a small screwdriver you can open up the swithces and clean them (but watch for springs and bits whizzing past your ear). I have heard of people opening them up inside palstic bags to catch all the bits before now. Hope this helps. Scrumps
  16. Hi, I've fixed this problem three ways:- 1. Replace the regulator assembly (about £30 from fleabay). 2 Remove the pin & wheel from an old regulator (see (1) above) and MIG weld it into another regulator (keep a damp cloth handy to cool it down before the nylon wheel melts). 3. Made a new pin out of Mild Steel and a new wheel out of Brass. (I build model steam engines for a hobby so I have a lathe/mill in the workshop). Hope this helps. Scrumps
  17. Hi, There is a known problem with reading the SLABS ECU with the engine running on a TD5, Nanocom can supply an adaptor which (allegedly) cures the problem. I have bought the adaptor (about £25) but haven't tried it yet and unfortunatley I'm a long way from you or we could have given it a try. Scrumps
  18. "IMHO 300Tdi and TD5 are totally different systems?" They are...but the theory of electrickery doesn't alter!!! Scrumps
  19. Hi, I had a similar problem to this with my "old" 300TDi CSW. I checked the light with a multimeter and everything checked out, cleaned the switches etc but the light only worked on "manual". Tunred out to be a corroded connection onthe wire between the switch and the light. The connection was showing a voltage but the corrosin wasn't allowing current to flow. Cleaned the connection and all was well. Try checking the 10pin connector (No. 0488 - colour light grey) above the drivers front headlining. It may be corroded as the inside of the roof is notorious for condensation. Hope this helps Scrumps
  20. Sorry Jason, I was using the standard convention of "left when sat in the vehicle looking forward i.e. nearside (in UK & Japan)" NOT left as in "looking at it with the bonnet up". Scrumps
  21. Hi, Try the canister oil filter. They are supposed to last 36,000 miles but my mate (at a main stealers) reckons to change them at 24,000 as they have been known to split around the folded bottom seam and spill oil out. (Can also be caused by overtightening when fitted apparently). Regards Scrumps
  22. Hi Dave, You mention that Nanocom has the ability to alter "body settings". I'm thinking of investing in one and I need to tell the BCU in the sandbags Disco 2 that we've now fitted an electric front windscreen. If I can do this with the Nanocom I can convince "management" that the cost of getting a Main Stealer to set the BCU for her EFW can offset the cost of the Nanocom. Please confirm if it is possible to set the BCU EFW option with Nanocom and I'll probably order one. Regards Scrumps
  23. Just to clear up the issue of taps, here's a phot I sent to a mate to explain the three different cuts:- And another one of the fitting I made for White 90's EGT thermocouple so we didn't need to drill the manifold at all !! Scrumps
  24. Hi, I've got one of the SLS remotes. They're meant for use when coupling up to trailers. The idea is that you lower the back end, reverse under the hitch and whilst stood at the rear (with all the doors closed) you can raise the SLS back to "normal" height and pick up the trailer without mucking around with the jockey wheel. Works brilliantly, also useful when getting people into seats 6 & 7 and loading heavy loads (traction engine castings) into the back. I got mine off E-blag (but make sure you get the bar code with it if second hand) for £75 and my local stealler programmed the SLABS ECU for a tenner. (You need the barcode as part of the SLABS programming for the car to "recognise" the SLS plip). Scrumps.
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