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Jiminy Cricket

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  • Location
    Wiltshire

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  • Interests
    My wife, daughter, dogs, horses and chickens! Like walking in't hills, live music and a good beer or two, especially real ale!

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  1. Thanks for the response - not sure why I should delete....? The leak appears to be from base of the plate that the fuel lines come out from, will have another look tomorrow after a good clean. Dose anyone have link for a Bosch pump - as fitted to a 96 300tdi exploded diagram - the worshop maual does not have much detail as far as I can see. Many thanks
  2. More fuel leaking - this time from the other end! Before posting for help I looked in the tech archive at the v detailed how to on fuel injector pump spindle replacement. If my pump is leaking only when running from the rear of the pump somewhere in the region of a small nut / allenkey bolt just below the fuel line outlets - is this the issue.........ie is this my fuel throttle spindle leaking and therefore is this how to the one I need to follow? Many thanks in advance
  3. Dave, Thanks for the response. Will not be using any RTV then,..,.. Western - thanks for sorting my title
  4. Just to add, I had a high pitch metallic noise that I failed to track for weeks, until the front prop UJ failed.....thankfully it was the transfer box end. Definitely worth checking the propshaft IMO.
  5. wondering why the tappets sound like they need doing again only after a few months.....

  6. Before I knew better when replacing my rear cross member on my 110 i also renewed the tank. Sadly I bought a Britpart one, complete with new sender.......it leaks! I have changed the sender, changed the olives and changed the rubber seal and metal seal ring twice. Switching the seal over does seem to stop the leak, temporarily. So I have concluded that the tank hole for the sender is imperfect (true Britpart quality) and thus leaking - can I use an RTV sealant on this - will that work, or am I doomed to have a leaky tank till i stump up for a new one, not made by Britpart? Any thoughts or suggestions on how best to fix would, as ever, be greatly appreciated!
  7. Guys, thanks for all the advice......finally got round to looking at her.......and diagnosis is alternator. When I disconnect the main charging lead my test lamp all but goes out. I assume that means a new alternator....or a recon.....any tips on where to go if so.....and what to avoid! Thanks again.
  8. Not yet, will do though....thanks for the advice!
  9. Before I start I have tried to read all posts on here and in the tech archive.....but I'm still stumped. Help please! Ok so battery went dead (on wife when I was at work......truck is running out of lives!). Have fully charged and tested battery, its good. Vehicle now starts well everytime, but we have to disconnect the neg terminal. Tried testing in line with neg lead using a lamp (spare reversing one) with all turned off. Lamp glowe very bright, so I thought brilliant this won't take long.......silly man! I have pulled every fuse (i think) to try and get the light to dim, but nothing.....are there any others hidden in a 300tdi defender other than main fuse box and engine bay next to the heather matrix? Also is the lamp test I am doing going to work.....I think it should, obviously an ameter would be better but the fuses in my multimeter seem to hve blown, great! Any pointers / advice appreciated......the wifes getting board of connecting / disconnecting the battery 10 times a day! Oh, and it drained the battery in under 12 hours to nearly usless, so must be something big ish???
  10. Bingo bango! You guys rock - thanks very much....now to work out what sizes I need etc. After that on with the door repairs as per the early post today....hope mine aren't to far gone, but susoect otherwise Cheers, Brooksy
  11. I like bodges - however i have already used that one up about a year ago and its returned with avengance - also need windows as use for dog ventalation when parked on occasion. Where can I get the felt from - paddocks etc?
  12. Does anyone have any advice on how best to remidie a realy annoyingly rattly rear slide window on a 110 defender. I am up for easy fix and also complete refit of window - not sure what is required though to solve. I assume the soft "felt" window guides have gone hard and wide - hence the rattle. Can these be bought and easily replaced? Any experiance or advice with this would be appreciated. Cheers
  13. Hi all, Any thoughts or previous experience with the following would be great: My Defender (110, 300Tdi 1996) very occasionally fails to start - and by that I mean its DEAD as a dodo.....not even the sound of a solenoid clicking (less for the glow plug one that is). Its been going on for around 2 years, sometimes its worse than other times. I have done the following: Replaced Battery - things got a lot worse when that was on way out! Checked (-) wiring point to chassis - all seems good. Replaced all yellow relays in dash - no change checked wiring to battery, starter, alt etc etc stripped, cleaned and bench tested starter about 8 months ago - was filthy but working and is still now. I saw a post in the archive re Disco spiders - could something similar apply to me, it does have an alarm / immobiliser but I don’t turn it on much as a year or so ago it went bonkers and goes of (the alarm that is) randomly - usually 3 am, hungover and without keys..... Anyway any help would be appreciated. Cheers
  14. Thankfully it came in a green one - like a beer mat! Any hints on how to remoe a REALLY stubborn bolt on the PAS pump pully- cant sort this leak till that blighter is off! Having to add water every day at mo.....dependant on use, its only leeking under pressure. Cheers for the help guys.
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