DivParts

He guys thats what I did and it works realy well.

Hi guys, Took a long time but here is the deal, i've bought the nissan Y60 axle's front and rear. Rear; Cut the rear axle right and left tube off put the left on the right and the right on the left side so I get a off set off 100mm (this is not enough for a road 90 but challenge car will do) Cut off all the brakets made all new once. Made a new A-frame Radius arms no bushings but all baljoints weld it all and put it on the 90. Front; Left the axle for what it is. Made braket for the springs and weld the on the sping brakets from the axle in a different angel and a slightly bit to the in side and rear. made a new place for the panhard braket and used the old 90 panhard cut it in two and extended. Made a high point next to the left side off the diff (this is not in the center because off the sump off the V8) for the 3rd link and made a heavy 3rd member on my chassis. I used 1 off the short radius arms off the nissan rear axle cut in two put a tigth fit 4mm wall tube in it (to make it stronger) and weld it together and ussed it as a 3rd link. Cut off the front bush of the hockey stick's. I've to little space to make enough space between the higest and lowest point off the tree link suspension to get no axle rotation so I've made a compromis and weld a front bush from the hockey stick's under the bush from the right side hockey stick with a space off 70mm. So the axle will not turn. Test We've test it this weekend for 4 day's in billstain Belgum and every thing went well. But I dont like the front the axle, it's still turning to much when you put some throtle on the V8 so still work to do. The front and rear shock's are to soft. I'm now runnig Rancho 9000 (800mm travel) at the back with dislocate cones like "gone to far" I like the long travel but it's (carp shocks). And al around OME spring's +2.5 havy duty at the rear and midium duty at the front. So this is it for now will put some pic in a short time.

Oh the diff ratio's are 4.11:1 so I'm happy about that to

I know I wouldt have spend my money on yota 80th axle's, but here in holland they are imposeble to find and if you find them the are not cheap and with the E locker ................................................ So I went for the nissan's Y60's with vacuum locker in the rear there almost the same witdh as landy so there is no prob but the rear axle got his 3rd in the center so this setup wil not work for a on-road car.

thanks guys, I've bougth the rear Y60 with the locker so now I have to figger out the front but I think it will be also a Y60.

Thanks Orgasmic, I have now a offer for a rear axel of a nissan Y60 whit locker for € 250,00 is this a good offer or not? For the front I can go to a toyo axel meabey they have stronger CV's or would you say a Y60 front will do ?

patrol "R" 3.3td 6cyl I don't know the Y code for this nissan.

The put it in a disco to get rit of drive line vibs because it sould be a luxer car. Why not in a def just for strength it does not coop with the force of real off roading. So no you will not have a prob but have you change the 3rd member flange because the disco flange have is 3 bolt and a def a 4 bolt joint

So Dave what you say is the nissan 3.3td "R"(? ) axels are not the way to go I sould opt to "GR" ? And then there is still a CV problem ? I can also go toyo but I can only find 60 or 70 th type's. and are these strong ? The ashcroft thing would be nice but with all the things diffs, halfshafts, r&p it will cost me € 2000,00 per axel ?????

Hi Guys, I've put a V8 3.9l EFI in my 90 (2.5NA) and yes I wrack my 10 spline half shaft in the first comp this year in 25min. I will upgrade but what is the right thing no I've got not a money tree . So do I stick with the landrover stuff and go to 24 spline if so do I go for landrover / britpart half shafts or is this a wast of money and must I go for aschroft. OR I can buy Nissan axels from a Patrol (6 cyl 3.3 Td) front and rear for € 500,00. I know the 3rd is in the centre of the rear ax and so give's vibs. but a I dont drive on the tarmac so why boder? Welding is no prob. for me its my job. Help what to do ?

Yes only the ratio's are different and yes you must tweak the link's because the tunnel of your def is smaller.

Thanks Guys, Yes when I start the engine he revs like 800 rpm or so then he revs up in two steps till a 1500 rpm in a 30 sec.. When I give the trotel a thiny blip then he revs down and come's up again in a matter of seconds. I checked before I post this all the electro stuff on the sensors like wire's and resistants of the goodies the where oke. So I tink it sould be some mechanical thing like the sticky stepper (nice name for a movie "the sticky stepper" ) but what does stick in this thing, the valve on the bottom or the axle on the valve?

You mean I think the "fast idle stepper"?

Tanks fridge, Stepper valve eh I will try that tomorow frist thing.

I've cut the cat's and change the tune resistor to the right one, but now I'm reading a post that the CO trim valeu (on the MAF the Bleu/red wire) 1.5V, Mine is 1,8V sould I corr ect it??