oap

The filter is just about due a change (I change it every 12 months) and bleeding the fuel system has made no difference. I'm going to check all the fuel lines and the pressure regulator at the weekend, I hope the problem is that straightforward. I dread having to pull out injectors again. Thanks for the reply.

Could be on to something there cr the starter motor has been fixed twice now , I replaced the brushes about 10 years ago and as I said the contacts before Christmas. Thanks for the reply.

I have this defender since 2004 and have fixed a lot things on it over the years but I'm sure what the problem is this time ? I replaced the fuel pump about two years ago and the injector seals around the same time, so I'm hoping that they are not the problem this time . It was getting hard to start before Christmas but I replaced the contacts in the starter motor and all was good for a week or two. After Christmas it took a long time to start maybe 30 seconds spinning before it fired, this happened a few times and it let me down eventually It started a few times since, when I sprayed paraffin into air intake but that wont work anymore (it tries to fire when paraffin reaches the cylinder's but wont) Oil wicking its way into the ECU is a common problem on the TD5 but mine is fine and its half full of diesel . So any suggestion on where to start looking for the fault? Thanks for any help.

Thanks for all the replies, I'm sorry that I've taken so long to reply. The fuel gauge is pretty accurate anyway, with the old pump it wouldn't budge from the full mark until I had over one hundred miles done and then it would work like normal. With the new pump even after twenty miles the needle has already started to fall (just makes me relies how thirsty it is). This all started when I serviced it at Christmas , when I went to change the fuel filter at the time, the filter housing broke away from the chassis as I was trying to twist off the fuel filter. It also managed to snap the ends off of one of the fuel lines. As it was Christmas the land rover sat idle for two weeks, before I got a new filter housing, I put it all back together then and repaired the fuel line. But when I tried to bleed the system the fuel pump wouldn't work as in I couldn't hear it making the loud screeching noise it usually makes. So I ordered a new pump and when I replaced it I got it started no problem and its been like I described in the original post since. Here's a couple photos of the new fuel filter housing (doesn't look new now) and the repair I did. As far as I know this is a return line, but it is possible that I damaged the other lines too. Although the mechanic at the garage said he pressure tested the system and it was fine , surely if there was pinhole somewhere in the lines, he would have found it? Thanks everyone for their help so far. O.A.P

On the first week of January I replaced the fuel pump on a 99 Td5 defender. I've been stuck on the side of the road three times since, the three occasions I had a half tank of fuel left or maybe a little less than half. There is no warning at all like spluttering or normal stuff you would associate with a fuel problem, power just dies and she will not start. The week before last I had it towed off the motorway and let them bring it to their garage to see if they could find the problem.I picked it up few days later and was told that it was caused by oil wicking through the wiring loom into the ECU (a common Td5 problem). About ten years ago, I replaced the injector loom because of this. I cant remember the exact symptoms at the time. But it never left me stranded. This morning on the way to work, she stopped again on the motorway. Same thing a little less than half left in the fuel tank, and I got it towed to my house. I went and bought five liter's of diesel , bled the system, put some brake cleaner into the air filter and she started on the second attempt, drove it to a petrol station, filled it with diesel and she is running grand now. I forgot to mention that they had pressure tested the system, in the garage last week and they said that it was perfect. Apart from it being very slightly harder on diesel than it was before with the old pump and that the diesel gauge is much more responsive, there is no other obvious difference apart from I cant rely on it anymore. If anyone can think of what it might be that could be causing this issue please tell me. Thanks for reading such a long post. O.A.P

Same as any other vehicle, put as much load on the clutch as possible. (handbrake on and try to pull away in second gear) It should stall. A defender will pull more than most though and the handbrake may not be so good.

I could not find the leak for a long time but when changing the fan belt over Christmas I noticed the pink mold or dust where it was coming through the rad. I'll try some grease on the cap and see if it solves it and will check the hoses tomorrow. Thanks for your help.

I replaced the old rad on my TD5 110 a few weeks ago because it was leaking coolant at about 3-4 hundred milliliters a week for years. I got the job done easy enough but since I've but the new one in its very hard to open the filler cap when warm or cold. I know its a pressurized system and that the pressure was able to escape through the rad before, but it needed a filter wrench to open it on Sunday when I went to see how the coolant level was . It had dropped 20 mm after 500 miles but I would expect that anyway as it would purge out the air pockets. I hope its not a head gasket leak that's causing so much pressure to build up , although I have opened it when hot and the coolant did not shoot up and was a little easier to open than when cold. So can someone tell me its normal or have I a big problem coming.

What he said all though I would let it prime 5 or 6 times. Thats key to the second position and leave it until the noise stops after a couple of minutes. x 5 or 6.

I have the same problem Ron but I have a homemade cubbybox. The link you posted looks like a neat solution. Please let us know if they work and I will get them too.

It sounds like the starter to me anyway, I had to change the brushes in mine a couple of months ago. Try giving it(the starter) a tap with a hammer before turning it over if that helps then that is your problem and a pretty easy one to fix if your lucky. It could also be sucking air into the system somewhere after all the mods, which will lightly be a pig to find where. Best of luck getting it sorted and I'm sure someone else on here will be able to offer more help.

Why would anybody buy a defender and expect cruise control ? or try to fit it ? I might get stick for this but I dont think thats what a defender is about at all. I am very happy with my 110 td5, it is a road going tractor for me, that I happen to be very found of. I hope its left the way it is and has been for the last 50 years or more. Discovery or a Range rover though are fine cars and I hope to own a Disco next year to replace the familly car. (NOT MY DEFENDER)

I would do this if I knew how, I looked at any joints that I can see today but still not fixed. I plan to rip everything out and start from scratch in the morning. I have a good volt meter but I have a very basic understanding of how it all works. I will put some pics up in the morning anyway, just as a lesson on how not to wire stuff.

Thats what I was afraid someone would suggest because I ran all the wires through a conduit and stupidly used all black wire so I wont know what is what at the other side. I bet your right though. Thanks OAP

Yes they run with two different earths, if that is the problem surely the volt meter would have not worked either on that side? When I take the probe off the earth wire it shows no volts

I have two work lights on the back of my 110 which I wired in myself a few years ago. They are run direct from the battery through a relay,fuse and switch in the cab then back to the lights. Recently one of them has stoped working and I have spent a few hours tring to fix it but I am stumped as to what is wrong, hopefully its something obvious and some of the experts on here will be good enough to help me out. Its not the bulb or the switch on the lamp itself because when I change them around with the other side it works fine. I have put a volt meter on the wires to both lamps and they read the same, Switch in cab off - 0 volts Switch in cab on - 12.3 volts Engine on switch in cab on - 14.3 volts I think thats about what they should read when all is in order but yet when I plug the lamp in (that I know is working) on the left hand side I get nothing. It has me beaten anyway and any help or advice would be greatly appreciated,

n No I dont think ABS makes any difference to the breaking force( we have it on our car and I think the landy has better breaks) its like most things with cars if it feels wrong it probably is.

Well there are good on my 110 td5 but I have never driven a td5 disco so its hard to answer your question. If you think there is something up with them then go with your gut feeling and fix them or get them looked at. 100 posts

Air is getting into the system somwhere at a guess. Have you changed the filter also?

Turn the key to position 2 and you should hear the pump singing, leave it until the pump stops (2 or 3 minutes). Repeat this procedure at least three times before trying to start it. I dont know what the haynes manual says put this method has purged mine before.

I drive a 110 td5 so it may be slightly different. I have a trailer which weighs almost a tonn empty and its behind the landy for 80 percent of my driving, probably 3.5 - 3.75 including the trailer is the most weight that I have pulled behind it. My fuel consumption is always between 27- 29 mpg with or with out the trailer, unless I drive over 60 miles an hour then I can get it down to 23 mpg. It could well be that when the trailer is not attached my driving style changes (It certainly does) but if I keep under 60 mile an hour it definately will burn about the same amount of fuel.

There is a plug like you say on top of the swivel and you need to get a tube of one shot grease (its a bit like a big toothpaste tube) and squeeze it in there, it helps alot if you heat the tube up in hot water first.

I have never been to Stoke on Trent but if its that rough Roy its time to leave.

Job done I used my torque wrench in the end as its the longest I have and I was more determined Thanks for all the help.

Its 15mm the head of the bolt is what I am trying to twist.