oap
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ah in that case i would change the seal in the swivel ball/axle aswel as its not an expensive part
Swivel housing gasket - FTC3646
swivel seal - FTC3401G
inner gasket swivel housing - FRC4206
swivel grease - STC3435GEN
halfshaft seal - FTC3276G
think that covers everything
I'm at the same job on a 1999 defender td5 110 but the swivel housing itself is pitted and needs to be replaced can you help me with a part number please. I found frc7065p but I'm not sure this is for a 300 tdi or my td5
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I would get a stand-alone pump, starting at £300ish it is probably the cheapest option.
That looks like a winner, Thanks I'll look into them.
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Thanks for all the advice lads I've somewhere to start now.
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I would like to know how much work or money it would take to fit a P.T.O to a standard td5 110 hard top, only to drive a timber spliter? It may be more than buying a small tractor any ideas?
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Thanks for the replies lads and Ill update my profile straight away. I will stick a big tractor battery in it tommorow but it starts now no problem as the weather has gotten milder so how will I know if thats the problem or not. The battery has never let me down yet but I think it is the orginal one so proberly at the end of its life.
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Doubt if it's the glow plugs. Does it turn over OK? Does the MIL light come on? Really should get it plugged in to a Nanocom or similar to read faults before swapping bits blindly. Failure of one of the sensors will stop a Td5 working. Also a starter motor on it's way out can affect the Crankshaft sensor, it's close enough for current spikes to affect it apparantly.
Thanks Sean for the reply. It turns over fine and I drained the battery this morning tring to start it. I took it out and put it on charge for a few hours and at about 4 oclock today it started first time. MIL? if thats the heater light then yeah that works, it stays on for abour 20 seconds and then I turn it over when its very cold it takes a bit longer to fire though. A nanocom means main dealers for me I'm afraid. So it started no problem when it was 7 or 8 degrees warmer and a fresh charged battery, does this mean thats its hardly a sensor problem?
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This is the first time it has refused to start for me in the three years I have owned it . It is a 1999 110 and the fuel line (injectors pump and filters ) is in good order and it has a half a tank of fuel. I think because it was pretty cold this morning that the glow plugs may be the problem although its been much colder over the past month and it always started all be it a little slower than normal. Can anybody tell me what I must remove to get to the glow plugs and what the new ones should be tightened to, thanks
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Thanks guys, I shall have a search for some gl4 spec.
Does the same go for diffs and swivel housings? What does the manual say about them?
Cheers
GL5 is fine in the diffs.
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The same goes for me here in New Zealand. Just wanted to check as have heard stories of gl5 spec oils with the extreme pressure additives "eating yellow metals" such as brass etc.. And I am unsure if there is any of this (Brass etc) present in the LT230 transfer box?
Mine has just started to leak so just checking before toping it back up.
I have searched every where for an answer as to when they stoped putting the brass parts in the LT230 boxs, but got no definate answer so I use GL4 on my 1999 td5'
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Oil changes
Once a year with average mileage say 10,000 tarmac only probably OK
Extreme weather, high temps, low temps, high rainfall and possibly g'box and t'box OK but diffs oil could do with a 6 month change
If you then throw-in off-roading then I would change diffs oil every 3 months, g'box and t'box every 6 months
Dave
Cheers Nas90 was'nt sure but that's a good guide
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Havent tried it, however it changes gear and pulls away as before
could it still be clutch, no clicking on idle eitherI doubt there is any thing wrong then as this is normal starting pocedure on a td5. They will start however without doind this usually but it puts more strain on the starting motor and battery and as you have said with this cold spell the transfer box oil will be thicker thus preventing your engine from firing up.
How often do you change the oil in the gearbox ,transfer box and diffs? I do it once a year but I'm not sure if this is to often or to little.
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Hi All,
Recently when ive tried to start the TD5 the last few days in the cold it doesnt want to turn over. As soon as I put the transfer box into neutral, it starts immediately.
Has anyone got any thoughts? Ive assumed its just old fluid in the gearbox and transfer box being sticky with the cold!
I always press the clutch to the floor and and don't touch the accelerator when starting my td5. If you do the same could you have clutch problems?
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Yeah transfer box problem, I think. Change the oil first use ep90-gl4 not gl5 and it may solve the problem.
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Thanks Diff
Mine is a 1991 Defender so I guess the older spec will be OK.
As far as I know gl4 is the correct spec oil for your transfer box. The older boxes had brass or bronze (not sure which) parts in them which gl5 oil reacts with and causes them to fail. Its fine in the diffs though.
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Two previous topics on this subject (found using Google)
Thanks Gazelle thats a big help, dont know why but when I did a search this did not come up.
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we fit vision alert cameras at work these are about 200 a piece but also have a sound facility good clear picture but not the best in direct sunlight,chris.
I would like to know where you draw the power from and how much it takes to run?
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Must admit I've been looking at them recently. I have a CSW and have no probs with the mirrors and normal reversing, trouble is parking, think I'm about to hit car behind, get out and there's still 4ft to go! Would be handy for hitching trailers too. Plus it's another toy to play with
Been looking here - http://www.parkingcameras.com/store/home.php
Thanks for the link Sean its better than any Iv seen on Ebay. I often have a trailer of timber behind me and no wing mirror is going to let me see how thats behaving after miles of country roads.
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I remember one, was a 110 or 130, posted i cant remember... was a white defender... stripy bumper possibly? had a connection to add the trailer camera.
Might have been a tree surgeon?
Probably not much help... I'l try and find it if i can!
HMMM trailer camera
Cheers Ill try and find it. -
Very probably but don't deny a man his excuse for new toys
Thats right and if the wife reads this I got no chance.
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I have a Defendewr 110 SW. There is no interior mirror fitted. I don't have any problems without it. The outside mirrors are more than adequate.
mike
Im sure you dont Mike but the station wagon has more glass than a greenhouse where as the hardtop is like driving with blinkers on even with the rear view mirror.
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Erm ... a sheet of perspex included in the closing off process?
There is a thread on here somewhere about a rear view camera install, by SimonR I think, try a search.
Thanks for the reply, I have seen a few with the perspex in and I just dont like how they turned out. Iv done a search but failed to find any thread about this so far.
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Im thinking about closing off the back of my 110 hardtop before the winter so it will be faster to heat the cab and it should make it a little quiter also. The only draw back that I can see is the rear view mirror will be usless then. So Im considering getting a rear view camera and monitor, there are hundreds of different kinds on ebay and I like the ones where the monitor clips over the mirror. Has anyone any advice on what to get or what to avoid? Any help or advice appreciated thanks.
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Thanke Aragorn, a lot of info there. Ill see how good that charge wire is.
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Yes and no - depends on what you are doing and what alternator is fitted. Add up your loads - if you have everything on you might have say -
50A from all your banana republic searchlights
About 20A from heated rear screen (guess)
About 10A from fan motor if on full speed
About 15A from all the other main lights
That's 95A on a cold dark night without anything else being on - radio, fridge in the back, heated seats if fitted etc etc. Air con will suck a load out - maybe 30A with the fans running - if you have that.
Even with the Td5 alternator which I think is 120A, the basic selection I started with above doesn't put much back into the battery so you are on pretty thin ice. If your vehicle has a/c you are through the ice and up to your neck.
The battery condition doesn't have much to do with it - you either have more alternator capacity than your load needs or you don't, and if you don't you are heading towards electrical death very quickly.
Thats the thing I will never have them all on at once and I dont have a heated rear screen air con or heated seats, its like a fridge in the back espcialy in Winter. So Id say 65 maybe 80 amps max at once and not often, from a 120 amp alternator. Is that safe? Banana republic search lights? Your putting me off the idea of the light bar now.
could it still be clutch, no clicking on idle either
Cheers Ill try and find it.
Leaking Swivl Seal
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks for that Les. I had just found that part number on Paddocks site but was not sure if it was what I needed.