oap
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Posts posted by oap
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I have two 100 watt lights on the bullbar and two 50 watt work lights on the back of my 10 year old td5. There has been no problem with these so far even though I can hear the engine working harder when the two front lights are on. I would like to add a light bar above the windscreen with four 50 watt lights and that will be the last lights Ill add to it. I might hard wire a sat nav and rear view camera sometime hopefully. So with a standard battery and alternator will it work or do I need a better system?
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Can anyone enlighten me as to the real world operating temperature likely to be seen with a Td5?
I know that from around 80 degrees to around 115 degrees, the temperature gauge will sit bang in the middle, so as not to scare the driver when the engine heat cycles.
Can anyone let me know what "normal" coolant temperatures should be for idling and when under load/at speed.
Thanks,
Steve
I can only tell you my own experience with my 110 td5 hope it helps. Mine always runs just shy of center when up to temp under load or at idle and I thought for sure the gauge or something was faulty. On the motorway going to work last December I noticed it start to climb almost to the red so I pulled in let her cool and nursed it home. The head gasket had blown which set me back a good few quid but if the gauge had not been working perfectly I would need a new engine. So if it runs in the middle of the gauge Id say there is nothing to worry about.
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They sell these seperatly for the td5 allright but they cost more than the filter. There are two wires coming out from them and a connector ,there is a plug on the chassy beside the filter where it plugs into. It is just a sensor that tells you if you need to drain some water out of the filter, a light will come on in the dash to let you know.
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235 is safe enough with them rims after that your taking a chance.
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Congratulations I hope you can keep it running now. Best of luck with it.
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I only asked about a 04 td5 i dont know which box it is. He said thats the oil they use in the garage for their own servicing.
Yeah helpfull stuff that, I hope you never spend any dosh in that place. An 04 td5 has an r380 gearbox or indeed any td5 has. I can get it if you want to pm me but I live way out west, try some other landrover dealers first. It can be got.
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Rang the landrover garage near me on monday and the said the mtf94 is been suceeded by this smx and they have stopped stocking it for this reason.
Did they say that SMX is ok in an r380 gearbox or not?
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I managed to get MTF in the local landy dealers no problem. You can definately get it over here.
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Yeah me too. With a new fog lamp but I managed to keep it toghter with super glue and after 3 or 4 times setting it up again it seems to be ok. Well 6 or 7 months and it still works. I just did not bother looking for a replacement but I proberly should have.
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Thanks for the help. GNK driveline it is then and if I buy in bulk I can keep them in the freezer.
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Quick question lads, I need to replace all the u-joints on my 110 so what are the best, how much do they cost and where do I get em? thanks
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Drill it out and tap it 2 or 3 mm bigger or to suit what ever size bolt (bung) you get. I had to do this on my car a few years ago and it works fine. If your not confident enough to do it yourself any descent garage will do it for some beer vouchers
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£1000 - WOW
, that's £960 labour charge !!I'm putting my prices up
Les
I followed your guide a few months back on my defender. It left nothing out and Iv fixed the problem, it cost me 75 euro for the new injector harness but Ill buy you a pint of what ever your drinking if you are ever in my local. For now THANKS MATE will have to do
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I plan on doing the same to mine, rev counter,volt meter and oil pressure would be my first choice. After that maybe a turbo gauge and there is a sat nav off a range rover sport on ebay but I cant afford it.
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A remap sorted this problem for me. Now I can just pull away in second or third if I am really lazy!
That will cost you a new clutch very soon.
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Sorry Western if I read it a few times I understand. Im off to bed this is not a good place to be tipsy or drunk even.
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bolt passes through the bulkhead too, so the lift off the door & remove bolt in workshop can't be done.
Now you have lost me but Iv had a few drinks
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Know I have not taken the door off because of this bolt. I was afraid to pass the point of no return (my landrover will not fit in my workshop) Im going to win this battle tommorow though one way or another!Drill out? Why?Remove door. And the 2nd bolt. The J-nut is located in a key hole with about 3/4" square above it for installation/removal.
Just give hinge a tap upwards with hammer. Hinge should move up and you can remove, may be a bit of a fiddle to align blind but it'll come out. Then you can set about bolt/j-nut with your selected instrument of torture in vice?
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Now I know you proberly wont belive me but Iv just come up with this idea myself after a couple of beers and cant see why it wont work. Bishbosh your a genius cheers.If the blade wont stop the bolt spinning, then can you spin the bolt with the drill and cut through the shank of the bolt by pushing down on the hacksaw blade?The blade will stay still so you wont scratch your paint...
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How about wedging a suitably thick screwdriver blade or pry bar (depending on available gap) between the hinge and bulkhead to lever the hinge outwards against the bolt head and jam it enough to stop it slipping while drilling the bolt head out.
Yep Iv tryed that there is just about enough room to get a hacksaw blade between the hinge and the bulkhead but I cannot stop it spining. If I use the blade to cut the bolt it will scratch all the paint off around the hinge and it dont need any more scratches.
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I was going to mention Dremel, too. I have had great results using mine to gently create two flat spots on opposite sides of a low profile, domed head, and then using an adjustable wrench to hold the thing steady while I attack it at will.
You mentioned you have new hinges...so don't care about damaging the one you are removing? How bout drilling a small hole through the edge of the head and into the hinge just far enough to get some kind of small pin into it to lock it from turning? I was thinking a cut-off finishing nail.
Hi Gringo I dont have new hinges just new stainless steel bolts, but I wish Id gotten new hinges now.
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What about a very fine file block or cutting disc on a dremel? Its a small space, so it would need to be small, but the angle you grind/file at will determine if it will spin. The dremel will come in handy again if you havenlt already got one.
I think a dremel is a flexable drive that I can attach small grinder disks or drill bits to ? If so my brother in law has one but havent asked him for it yet anyway. Its started to rain heavy now so Ill look again in the morning.
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Thanks for your help and I have the grinder set up ready to go but thought Id ask on here first. A plasma cutter now that would be to easy and I only wish I had one. Ill try one more time with the drill and small screwdriver thanks again
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There is nowhere to grip the bloody thing though. One end is in the bulkhead with a broken j-nut on it that that I cant even see. The other end is recessed into the hinge with just enough room for a torx bit or a drill bit but they are more lightly to start a fire with friction than actually remove the bolt.Hold the bolt with mole grips while drilling?
, that's £960 labour charge !!
How much can I push a battery
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks for the reply Western, everything battery and alternator are as good as new but standard. I want to take another 20amp off it then so 50 amp more than than Landrover had in mind and as I said a few small bits in the cab later on. Any electrical guru out there that can say yes or no?