dann

Having just completed the second of these clutch replacements I offer the following hints: Jacking the engine under the crank pulley is vital. Placing the trolley jack used to support the rear of the transmission on a piece of ply or similar allows it to roll backwards and forwards nicely. I left the handbrake lever disconnected from the cable and simply wound in the adjuster to lock the transmission brake drum to prevent it turning. I used a ratchet strap to secure the transmission brake drum to the trolley jack lifting platform. Before separating the transmission from the engine I screwed in two 8inch lengths of threaded stud into two of the lower bell-housing bolt holes. This ensures that the transmission does not tilt sideways, as it is apt to do, when disconnected from the engine. This also allows the transmission to be easily wound back into engagement with the engine using a couple of the 15mm nuts. A ratchet strap can be used to both pull the transmission unit backwards and then forwards to re-engage with the engine. In the absence of some hefty rugby playing mates to assist with heaving the transmission in and out these hints may help if working alone.

Before getting the 'eezibleed' which will do the job: try opening up all bleed nipples, top up reservoir and eventually the fluid will begin to dribble out of the bleed nipples (via gravity) don't press the brake at this point. once fluid has appeared tighten all nipples except furthest from reservoir and commence normal bleeding procedure i.e. pedal down- tighten nipple- pedal up- undo nipple etc etc.

lots of commercials have been fitted with rear seats etc, so there must be some LR flooring units lying around. You could try a wanted ad on the forums.

Greetings, after studying the wiring diagram, here are my 2 possible causes. (my understanding from your description is that the fuse continues to blow even with the fuel pump disconnected): 1. The heated oxygen sensor appears to linked into the circuit and may be overloading it. 2. A chaffed cable which is touching earth at some point. Good luck.D..

P.S. A new fuel filter is always worth a try as they cost little and often improve performance.D..

Hi Don, White smoke is usually caused by poor combustion and is most common after cold start due to glow plug probs but as yours happens also when the engine is warm it won't be a glow plugs issue. That leaves fuel contamination, coolant problems, injectors or low fuel pressure in the high pressure common rail. As you don't mention hard starting or engine misfire when idling it is probably not a single injector failure. Try cleaning the electrical connections: a. High pressure fuel sensor located at the battery end of the common rail. b. High presssure regulator located just left of starter on back of HP pump. I have taken Fuel pressure signal voltages from an identical engine which is operating normally: High pressure sensor: voltmeter connected between blue/black cable and earth. Ign 'on' engine off = 0.5v Engine idling = 1.28v approx 3000rpm =1.96v approx Take care when the engine is running. Good luck.Dann..

Need more info: Model year? Model year? Early:Do both electric pumps run after ignition 'on' to prime system before cranking? Later: Does the pump in O/s wheelarch run after ignition 'on' to prime system before cranking? Problem when engine hot, cold or both? Any smoke from exhaust whilst cranking?