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About Rickspark

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  1. I'd suggest you pop it on some ramps and spray along the pipe route, at joints and the airbags with gas leak detector fluid or water and detergent to highlight the leaking area.
  2. I agree Bear. Had my TD5 for 13 years. Reckon mine starts to really work at just over 2200 rpm. Isn't this just a characteristic of the vehicle? I.e. The engine need to be doing work to make the turbo spin to blow air into the engine?
  3. Hi Spiker, have owned my Disc 2 TD5 for 13 years and it does as described, particularly when towing. The loss of power is very short, just a momentary jerk. I own a Nancom Evolution and I forget the error message but here's what it does, why it does it and how I fix it until the next time. When towing, the accelerator peddle is pressed to levels not normally reached. The Nanocom error log reports a loss of signal from the accelerator. I strongly suspect this is caused by a little dirty or corrosion on the accelerator peddle potentiometer. When the peddle is pressed and the wiper passes over this area of the pot, a momentary loss of signal causes the jerking action. Quickly moving the accelerator peddle restores power. I read somewhere that the accelerator module is factory calibrated and sealed for life so I've not explored stripping it down to clean it. I fix the problem by just sitting in the vehicle for 10 minutes and with the engine off, pump the accelerator through its full travel distance. This has the effect of polishing the potentiometer surface and wiper and restores a good electrical connection throughout the full throttle range. The problem goers away for a year or more. Hope this no cost solution fixes your problem. Rick.
  4. You are correct Gadget. Looking at it today, the recess is 10mm deep and the washer is 11mm so it's not going in either way. Just like you, I need to resort back to a 4 piece seal kit as this 5 piece is just a waste of time.
  5. Thank you for these Jiginc, really useful, will have a go at stripping it tomorrow. Maybe I've got it wrong, perhaps that seal is intended for inside the box.
  6. Thanks Gadget. Three more pics here. Dilemma is just which way up that seal goes. The metal ring just taps in to keep it in place. I'm thinking seal goes spring side inside but then that feels opposite to the one I took out. Shaft looks pretty good. I'm bothering to replace the seal because the box has only done 46,000 miles and the re-con units seem the get mixed reports in postings. or Any thoughts appreciated.
  7. Hello, Managed to remove my steering box so I can replace the seals. Box is leaking, MOT next week. I removed parts 1, 2, 3 and 4 and as you can see, they're not going back... I purchase one of these... There's a good match between some components - 5 for 2, 6 for 3 and 7 for 4. 9 will tap into the box as its a tight fit. I'm not sure which way 8 goes? Any ideas? Can you help? Thanks! Richard
  8. Hello gents, thought I'd make a quick posting because this thread has been really useful for me today. I'm working towards removing my steering box to replace the seal. As mentioned, the Haynes manual guidance falls a bit short in this instance. I managed to remove the under shield without doing 4. I did everything else suggested in this thread and supported the chassis member of the drivers side so I could lower the axle on that side. The cover slid out pretty easily, intact and in one piece. Can imagine dealers discard it so its great to be able to do the job right. Thanks Rickspark
  9. I don't think you were following my thinking Chris. It's most likely that you only have one sensor faulty so I'm wondering if by removing then re-connecting each one from the circuit, one by one, you'll be able to identify which one it is faulty.
  10. Chris, what about removing each sensor connector while the ingnition is turned on (engine can be off) while the reverse sensor is beeping? You'll need to walk away as you try each one to clear your self of the sensor picking you up. I'd have thought that through this process of elmination, you'll be able to identify which sensor is faulty.
  11. Hello all, At around £15 for a set of seals, and there are plenty of offer on the web, I'm thinking I will replace these. There are a good few postings suggesting that this will be a waste of time and I should replace the box but £15 vs £250 is making me feel it's worth a try for the cost of a day of my time. Any thoughts would be welcome and does anyone know what size that big nut is? Richard
  12. So Hish, how did this story end? Are you back in the UK with Disco intact by now?
  13. That should do it I reckon, kill or cure, nothing to lose, blow torch on the back and twist it with mole grips, might do the trick.
  14. Not sure but the worm gear housing does not look particularly water tight. Screws were a little slack between the motor and gear so I guess it could also have been the seal between the two.
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