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grumpy2

Getting Comfortable
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  1. never fancied the potential chaos of cranking the engine! I think my air gun is grim - it won't touch the crankshaft bolt, sometimes struggles with wheel bolts! gary
  2. all above is correct and accurate but unless you get the crankshaft nut undone you won't get anywhere. I broke my 1/2 inch socket doint this job first time round so bought another impact type and then i broke the breaker bar. after that I bought a 3/4 impact socket and fabricated a 3/4 drive on the end of 5 feet of scaffolding pole. the only problem I had then was locking the crank shaft while I undid the nut. I tried the bung it in gear approach, no good at all just nearly ran myself over! then I made up a locking bar from angle iron - it bent! finally welded 1inch tube to the locking bar bolted it to the front pulley and it works. done three this way and I recon it took me longer to get the crankshaft nut undone the first time than all the rest of the work combined! Is there some connection between Land Rover and MG?, I have a V8 Roadster and a standard GT LE. gary
  3. always a problem. I've found it best to take the wole thing off the car - takes about 20 minutes. soak it in plus gas over night and wake up looking forward to a fight! heat (gentle - not red), easing oil and a small chisel will open up the threads and a strong vice and large stilson will get the threads turning. open it all up and copper grease the lot. fit it back together and then to the car. away you go with the adjustment. well worth doing, kwik fit won't touch it until the linkage is free but by then you may as well do it yourself if you have the kit. gary
  4. trev, still working although the actuators have needed to be fine tuned. I guess your motors may have siezed and blown the fuse through too much current. all of my original actuators were free and moved in and out manually but none would move at all when energised. stripped them and tried to power just the motor from direct 12v, still nothing. the maplin kit provided the solution I needed and was cheap too. gary
  5. thanks chaps, I've done the tracking on a few land rovers and the adjuster is always siezed. I freed this off earlier in the week. checked the tracking twice now, once with the gunsons gauge and again with my home made screw thread device, and it was spot on both times. the luck bit is because to free off the adjuster I remove the whole tie bar from the car and totally strip it on the bench, lubricate with copper grease and put it back on. After this much taking apart I'd expect the tracking to be way out, it ususlly is. this time lucky I guess gary
  6. this might help (if it works) http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/tires.html might not be clickky though gary
  7. the central locking on my disco didn't work, not at all. After checking the connectors with a multimeter I reckoned the actuators were dead (all of them!) and had probably been this way for a while. gave up and used the key and inside buttons. rummaging through maplin the other day I spotted a cheap kit with 4 door actuators for £21. couldn't resist, so I bought it and studied the wiring diagrams for the disco and the kit. They were different but had some things in common. So I worked out how the fit the two together. Today I removed the disco actuators and replaced them with the maplin ones, spliced the maplin units into the disco loom but used the maplin control box. 2 hours later and I have central locking. The disco also has a basic remote alarm with an output to operate the central locking. trouble is at the moment the alarm lock trigger goes low when locked and high when unlocked. the maplin unit has two wires which go low in turn to lock and unlock. now I need to figure out a little black box that takes on low signal trigger and alternates in to two low outputs, reliably! when this works I'll have remote central locking just as god intended with no messing with springs or dodgy actuators. __________________ cheers gary
  8. I did it yesterday and either by luck or error it was spot on. I'm inclined to think error as I don't do luck! the idea of toe in as I understand it is to allow for the push of a rear wheel drive car to 'straighten' to front when moving. that's why front wheel drive cars have toe out - the straighten when pulling. My disco book says 0 - 0.5 degrees toe out so that's probably because its four wheel drive. My pal has a mechanical gauge so I think I'll double check with that. cheers anyway gary
  9. the previous tyres on my disco were slightly unevenly worn so I'm going to check the tracking when the weather bucks up. I've had the tie rod off and freed up the adjusters so the adjustments canbe easily made. has anyone here used the gunson trackrite on a landrover? I've used it loads on my MG (and several pals too) and it works a treat but I don't know if it will cope with the weight or the tyre width. any thoughts? gary
  10. Ivan, thanks for that I'll have a look next week when I have some time. cheers gary
  11. it's a pity that the heater motor isn't as simple! either off or on, no speed control, I guess the resistors have gone but can't be bothered stripping the dash to find out. gary
  12. mine had a very high pitched whistle, turned out to be a slight split in the vacuum hose connected to the brake servo. the smaller hose on the 'T' connector located above the servo. don't know what it does but everything worked OK!, quieter now though! gary
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