nikiboy

I have ideas for conversion of my RR from 3.5=>4.6 My research shows that I'll need engine and 3.9 electric installation with a modified ECU. ECR have made a lot of conversions like that - http://www.eastcoastrover.com/Richardson.html

It is very cold in Bulgaria now, that is the reason to test the FPR so late. Yesterday I put a bar meter on the fuel line for the addition fuel injector (which is on the top). I started the car on LPG and switched on the fuel pump – the pressure was – 1.9Bars on idle, 2.5 when revs. Then I made the same on petrol, the results ware the same. I have no ideas what to check next. “q-rover” what you mean “there was a break in the connector”?

Hi, I changed the old petrol – I put 10 lts new. Also cleaned the injectors with ultrasound. Checked the thermo sender. Now the situation is better, but not enough. Yes, I’m sure that the mixture is too rich. Also it smells a lot. The car is not revs well. It is, like a broken ignition. But the ignition is OK, with LPG no problems and explosions. # The likely cause is the temp sensor or even your replacement resistor is not being seen by the ECU due to a faulty connection from sensor to ECU or a faulty earth connection from the Efi loom to the engine block. I think they are OK. # Check you measurements at the ECU multiplug, or simply inspect, clean and carefully fettle the contacts there-in. Cheked # Faulty FPR causing fuel pressure to remain constantly high. I think it is not working, because when disconnect it – no difference. It it is broken it should leak or to keep low pressure? # Noisy/damaged throttle pot. The TPS is new one. When checked it gives 3.4 V supply instead 4.5. On the other test of the TPS when pedal is pressed it changes from 0,35V to 3.6 not to 4.5. I’m making the tests from the user manual # Blocked air filter I’m with sport filter I think it is possible the reason to be the cable that gives the signal from the ignition amplifier to the ECU pin 1. How the ECU understands which injectors to fire? My distributor is the old version – separate ignition amp. Or the problem is in the Trigger Resistor?

My lovely 3.5 EFI RRC is primary driven on LPG. The previous owner have installed it before 4-6 years. Now I decid to make it work on petrol I changed all of the broken parts - TPS, MAF. I rebuild the EFi installation and now the car pass all of the exams for the EFI - I did all of the checks shown in the user manual - all voltages and resistance are ok. Also try with the resistor instead of temperature sensor. I putt Redex also. I only did not clean the nozzles (with ultrasound), is it possible to be from them? Do you have any other ideas? This is the situation Sorry for the used free software to prepare the file.

Did you finish with the repair? I have the same leak and it happens only when going offroad (using low range).

I have bad experience in the past with the oil pressure ) So now I put to my 3.5 RR a guide and scale from Lada. It is very cheap - less that 5-7 Euro both. You need just a small transformation of the treath from 4x1.25 to imperial. This is the guide The connection is: - Orange - it is "+" - white/black- it is "-" - Right free place is the signal 300-320 oms = 0 bar 50-60 oms = 8 bars