Jump to content

fearofweapons

Settled In
  • Content Count

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About fearofweapons

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

567 profile views
  1. Hi, investigating the the other day why some of my warning lights no longer warn ( e.g. indicator, trailer, low fuel etc. ) I found the bulbs were broken. These are the ones on the warning lights cluster insert in a 1989 110 dashboard and contain the battery charging, oil, diff lock engaged, the list above plus others. ) Having a hunt around I think the bulb type is a 286 - but also seen reference to 297 and other numbers bandied around. Can any of the learned members of this forum give me the definitive answer please? If 286s then either of the following links should satisfy
  2. @snagger - I have an old rear door skin so will cut a strip out of that and fold over. I might take the opportunity to make one for my 110 as well where that has rotted through. cheers, Rich T
  3. Thats great many thanks - I'll need to order up both then.
  4. Hello! Looking in the parts manual it is not clear to me the different locations for the rear tub stays referenced by the part numbers; 33251 and 330303 and 330304. 332521 looks like it bolts to the wheel! (Which can't be right - it wouldn't last very long if it were!). While 330303 and 330304 seem just as vague in location. It would probably be easier if I had the SIII 1974 88in in front of me to go and peer and poke at - but not necessarily! Any help much appreciated.
  5. For many years, since I replaced my bulk head, my airflow has been asthmatic as an elderley ant! At the start of lock down I stripped the dash off and added a couple of small PC fans just below the demister ducts to turbo boost flow upwards. See the photos - the white padding is some hydrophobic insulation and sound absorbing material. I also added some seals to the lower vent flaps (bits of neoprene but might rip them off and replace with sponge draft excluder instead). I cut the seal for the passenger lower outlet to restrict air flow so that more is directed to the driver's side.
  6. Hello! So the re-painting my wife's SIII with a 90 bulkhead continues. This weekend we stripped off all the capping's and windscreen frame to blasts and send for re galvanising. The door seals are shot - a mix of chopped up defender ones and SIII on the windscreen and roof. Replacement SIII seals are eye wateringly expensive. Many have said about using Defender seals - some say to grind off the lip others say not needed. My concern (and I am not near the windscreen frame for the rest of this week to check) is how the defender seal would fit to the windscreen frame? The series one riv
  7. Many thanks for the replies guys and the tip on heated glass. Thanks
  8. After a bit of advice. Doing up the wife's SIII and the windscreen frame has been painted. Removing the paint has damaged the galv. Having had a quick look around it would seem you can no longer buy new wind screen frames. Or can someone prove me wrong please? So as a fall back looking to get it blasted and galvanised. Can anyone recommend a blasters and galvanisers in the Leeds / Bradford / West Yorkshire area please? regards, Richard.
  9. Thanks for the replies and confirmation this is a common / normal thing.
  10. Thanks for pointing out the seat rails are not the same length. That is not the cause. They became mismatched while trying to resolve the issue. As can be seen in the photo Mutley has ringed the inner front corner is higher than the outer front corner - that is the issue I'm trying to fix. It's very frustrating. If I fold the seats flat forward the rails sit flat and square. Once I put the seat into the upright position they do not - so something to do with the ratchet mechanism. Which seemed to 'slip' when I was recovering the seats. I've checked as best I can, using
  11. Thanks - tried that, and I'm no lite weight!, but no joy. 🤔
  12. Yeah you would have thought so.... but apparently not. 😥 Here are some photos...
  13. Hello, some time ago we recovered the front seats in out 1989 110. At some point during that process the seat base got out of true. The side with the reclining handle on 'slipped'. This means that when the seat is bolted to the seat base in the car the back is twisted; the left-hand side of the back is pulled forward. If I take the seat out of the car and place it on a flat surface the left-hand seat rail is raised at the front if the right hand rail is bolted flat. (Once my phone has some charge, I can take a photo and show you.) Now I have some spare time on my hands I am
  14. All, many thanks for replies and pointers. This is, obviously, one of those times when doing it by the book is wrong 😞 I'll go take a look in the SII forum as well. In the mean time I have a question... If I choose the 'not 90 degree setting' is there any advantage to the arm leading or trailing the chassis? i.e. create an acute or obtuse angle with the drop arm on the bottom of the steering relay? Or is the 90 degree setting the correct one and the manual is just plain wrong? The rest of the setup instructions above I had pretty much followed including the checking for
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy