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fearofweapons

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About fearofweapons

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  1. fearofweapons

    Series gearboxes - what to look for?

    Many thanks.
  2. fearofweapons

    Series gearboxes - what to look for?

    Hi, Going to look at a 2nd hand series 3 gear box and over drive combo. Over drive described as good and gear box as 'notchy'. Nevr bought a gear box or over drive before so would be greatful for any advice that can be offered. Both are currently in the vehicle so can be driven. Many thanks Richard
  3. fearofweapons

    Steering Column and box thingy service?

    Thanks all. I shall now retire to the 'workshop' - I may be some time!
  4. fearofweapons

    Series III - Ignition Switch Woes

    Fridge - I would have sent you mine if I found it ( I couldn't despite finding some quite amazing 'dashboard fluff' down the crack. ) On Saturday we replaced the whole thing with a new switch, steering lock and key assembly. I immediately noticed an improvement in starting - the car now starts on the first turn of the key with no cranking - so the switch must have been fairly bad when we bought the car. Also the key now goes in and out with minimal wiggling - before it would sometimes get stuck. Now I just need to work out what on earth the relay does that is wired into the live feed to the switch and the relay output into the coil - so the coil would appear to be always energised... oh you gotta love PO shenanigans with wiggly fizz. Time to put on my well insulated boots I fear.
  5. fearofweapons

    Steering Column and box thingy service?

    All, many thanks for the advice so far. The old box is apart and, after liberal heating and help from a friend, the steering arm eventually came off. Although I am not replacing the bush for the steering arm ( Part 18 in the diagram ) I could not readily see it would be removed were I to do so. The lip inside is very fine. How have others removed the bush? ( I did manage to get the washer and O ring out fairly easily. ) At some point this week I will rebuild it, I expect grease and balls every where. During the rebuild have people left the main nut and recirculating channel built up, greased the balls to keep them in and the fed the whole thing onto the end of the worm gear as you fed the inner back into the box. Or have you built up the end races, got the inner column in place and then built the main nut and recirculating channel up around the worm? ( This you tube video, for a different steering box, shows building up the main nut and channel around the worm drive - I know it's not a Landy and to may not work - just looking for thoughts and past experiences - . )
  6. fearofweapons

    Series III - Ignition Switch Woes

    Thanks Steve - I wonder if that fell out when I removed the switch and is rattling around in the dash somewhere? It might be time to get one of my children, with smaller hands than mine, to have a furtle...
  7. fearofweapons

    Series III - Ignition Switch Woes

    The diesel ignition switch, with steering lock, on the Series 3 was playing up so I ordered a new petrol one. I ordered up part PRC8230R however on trying to fit it I found it was smaller than the lock mechanism and so would not fit. In addition I have no idea how the old switch ever worked - the bar from the lock to the old switch is far to small and has real problems turning it. However the bar is a good fit for the new switch. Can anyone tell me what the correct part number is please for a 'fatter' petrol switch? Or am I better just buying a complete new assembly? In which case would an early 90/110 ignition switch with steering lock assembly fit or do I need a specific series III one? The photos below show the old switch and how the bar does not really fit along with the outer dimensions of old lock. You can also see the new lock and how it does not fit. As always any help much appreciated. regards, Richard
  8. Sorry for using technical jargon late at night.... I have a 2nd hand series III steering column and associated box on the end. Before fitting it I'd like to service it if such a thing is possible. A quick search has not shown me anything in the tech archive (nor on the wider net). Could any one point me in the general direction of a duffers guide to serviceing such things please? (and tell me what the box on the end of the column is really called?) Would it be covered in the workshop manual? In which case could anyone let me have sight of the relevant pages please? Many thanks Richard
  9. fearofweapons

    Series 3 Petrol, Cuts Out..........

    we had a similar problem - turned out to be a tiny ( size of a grain of rice ) tree bud that had been sucked into the fuel pipe in the tank and then got stuck. It was just small enough to allow enough fuel past for tick over and short periods of revving on the drive. However go anywhere and the reservoir of fuel in the in line filter got used up and then starved the engine. We found it by working back from the carb until the fuel pipe tank to pump was all that was left. Sucking on the pipe ( out of the tank! ) showed it was blocked. Blasting, against normal fuel flow direction, with an airline ejected the bud and normal service was resumed. I now have a new gauze filter to fit to the fuel pipe in the tank - I wonder how long that will sit on the shelf....
  10. fearofweapons

    Runs fine but then dies....

    So that particular problem is now solved. Many thanks for everyone's input. Turns out a small bud from a tree, previous owner as we don't have any of those trees, was wedged up the fuel intake pipe in the tank. It allowed enough fuel past for it to run on tick over but slowly starved it of fuel when under load. You live and learn.
  11. fearofweapons

    Runs fine but then dies....

    So no sucking around intake manifold. Will work through earths. Also going to check that non of the components put on are faulty. When restarting after a failure sometimes it will just start right back up - other times it takes a bit of cranking. But it cranks strongly.
  12. fearofweapons

    Runs fine but then dies....

    Thanks we'll give that a go.
  13. fearofweapons

    Runs fine but then dies....

    Timing light - yes we have had one on and it sparks all the way through. Also had a false plug on and could watch the spark - although we could hear it seeming to vary in strength a bit but no much. Hunting - not really. I sometimes think it feels a bit lumpy in the lead up but not strongly and no other changes discernable.
  14. fearofweapons

    Runs fine but then dies....

    Gents thanks for the replies. Not tried a separate fuel can but we are not seeing any contamination evidence and flow remains good. Readings - voltage into the coil remains good. We have even linked +ve battery direct to coil input. Not checked earthing though so will add to the list. The new card came with new solenoids and I hear them click open with power applied and fuel flow into carb seems good from observation with out air inlet on.
  15. fearofweapons

    Runs fine but then dies....

    So you may have seen my previous posts about the trouble I'm having with my 2.5 petrol transplant into SIII. We have; changed the carb for a new one, changed the in line fuel filter, checked the fuel pump, changed the HT leads, changed the coil and condenser and points, checked the spark plugs, checked for vacuum leaks, checked the spark AND it still fails. Symptoms are it will start and run you can rev or leave ticking over but within a couple of mins it just dies away as if the power were cut; regardless if hot or cold. We have run without airfilter on - still fails. We have watched into the carb and fuel is still flowing - the in line filter is still full after it dies. We are stumped. At this point just about any suggestion will be welcomed. We are supposed to be going away next w/e and that is in doubt now 🙁 cheers Richard
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