PieEater3142

OK, so the shocks are reported as having play on my first MOT for the project, and the bolts are done up tight the guy said. I have yet to look but this sounds odd to me. I was initially going to pack the nut out with washers so I could get more thread however I'm thinking that the bushes might be shot (after all the panhard ones are on the supposedly refurbished axle). Anyway, would it be worth while going for these (SuperPro bushes): http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_new.tpl&product_id=38075&category_id=1013034&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=14 Or just stick with OEM ones, bearing in mind it's a 110 and not going to be a mud plugger but for overland/cart horse use on the whole. Advice on whether to splurge on polybush or not for these would be greatly appreciated (note the rest of the truck is still on OEM parts).

thread revival: So, one of the things my project failed on was the panhard bushes are shot. You turn the wheel and the truck moves before the wheels. MOT guy said he'd never seen it to that extent before, found it most amusing. Anyway, I am about to order the new bushes and want some advice. Do I go for OEM (LR or Bearmach etc - not S***part) bushes or do I put polybushes in. I am swinging towards polybushes as they will be slighly harder (so vehicle more responsive?) and are in two pieces (thus easier to fit I hope). Is there any reason I should stay away from polybushes for the panhard rod? Thoughts please

I found a 5 way version of one of these on ebay (can't find it now) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-HD-Breather-Wading-Kit-90-110-Defender-Range-Rover-Discovery-/280887975224?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D612240837339694118%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D2%26#ht_1363wt_1165 But its metal and screws in, the pipe pushes and locks in on rubber grommets. Knowing what I know now, I really need another 2 breathers anyway. (high pressure fuel (injector) pump, pas fluid resivoir (different cap for bottle) Sure there's another i've forgotten. But 2 of these wouldn't be a bad shout if you really want to do EVERYTHING.

So once a year when I flush the brakes then?

yerah, I have done the doors as well. Still need to do the tunnel (was making sure all was well first) and also the bonnet. They are on my todo list. Definately concur. Can't have too much sound proofing and it's worth spending the money on good stuff.

sounds about what i did but 1/8 of a turn rather than 2 clicks as mine dont click sounds like ive done it rougly right though. much apreciated. how often should i be checking them?

I was planning on attaching mine to the bottom of the doors - they can be screwed on instead of rivets and that way you don't trash them with your feet, dog, shopping, body bag etc... Also I don't have any lip to put mine in on the sills. Just a thought of you were about to do yours

I've coated the bulkhead both sides in rattle trap and then put eva rubber matting down over the top. I can happily say it was worth every penny (although to do the rear tub, seatbox, bulkhead - both sides except for the sides of the footwells it came to £250 I think). I've only gotten as far as the MOT centre and back (bloody axles.... claiming to be refurbished) but you can hold a conversation in there without shouting. It's still not a modern car quiet but you can hear the engine in the background rather than have it as a primary feature.

my arm is still aching from fighting them... Amazingly, once the springs are on the right way round, you can adjust the brake shoes correctly Drivers side has been tightened one side at a time till lock, kick the pedal about a bit, then check, then back off a 1/8th of a turn till the wheel spins nicely. I can still hear the pads rubbing slightly but wheel turns easily. Assume I'm doing the right thing as they are new, this should bed them in properly right?

OK, sorted thanks once again to the board's knowledge. Never met any springs quite like those before mind. Alot of swearing to get the shoes in to the bottom. Also sorted out the wheel bearing at the same time two jobs done for the price of one (wouldnt have been able to swap shoes round without taking the wheel hub off).

both, right, magic thanks. take em out and flip em round then I will as soon as the soddin rain stops

This is how NOT to put them together then From your link Ralph, the top spring goes round the back of the shoes. Yes?

Magic, thanks ralph. Did try a google search with lr4x4 and the forum search but obviously was not using the right phrase. Answer is, the owner before me put the spring in back to front, however from the exploded parts diagram thats not exactly clear.

OK, sorry western you've lost me. My shoes only have two springs on them at present. Will post pics in a sec what I did take earlier. I would normally expect a pin to go through from the back of the drum, through the shoe and have a spring and retaining clip on it to hold the shoe in place. At present I have a spring between the shoes at the top and a spring between the shoes at the bottom. That is all. Should I have anything else? The shoes are pulled together by these two springs which are face mounted and thus pull the shoes together at an odd angle at the front. Has the previous owner forgotten a part here? Or should one of the springs be round the other way? Rolling chassis was purchased with supposed refurbed axles so never looked at them really - other than fitting new track rod ends (boots had perished on the old ones). To be fair they are new drums, shoes and cylinders. Anyway, seems all my faults from the mot lie with these axles. Grrrr....

mot time and brakes were listed as spongy. So have gone in to check the rear cylinders and after much swearing we managed to get the drum off only to find the shoes pivot out??? Looking at the manual and the rear of the drum, I can't find the normal spring and pin that I would expect to hold the shoes level so that they dont constantly rub. So how exactly should these work?

Not as beefy (3kw) but could be an option: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D3WZ-Eberspacher-Diesel-Water-Heater-12V-Boat-Campervan-7days-timerFULLY-TESTED-/221047100566?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item33776f1496#ht_1647wt_1398

Just in case you didn't realise - the D5W is bigger than the D5WZ/Webasto equivalent people on here have. Dimensions: D5W: http://www.eberspacher.com/downloads/technical-documents/D5W_manual.pdf (page 5) D5WZ: http://www.esparofmichigan.com/techsupport/pdfs/HYBERNATOR/Hydronic%20D5WZ%2025_2216%20TD%2006%202003%20JE.pdf (page 12) I looked at a D5W but it was going to be tight fitting it into the engine bay - can't remember if I figured out if it would fit in the right hand wing on a 200tdi setup. And then the plumbing became interesting. I'd have a measure before you set your sights on a D5W. Unfortunately the D5WZ / Webasto equivalents are generally more expensive.

Ah ok, so flange at bottom of downpipe on TD exhaust. Old 200tdi 90 had this - assumed it was standard, and was still a pain trying to get at the starter motor. The 110 has a different configuration I believe. Will have a look but thought it was the same? Maybe the solution is to go straight up and over instead - would keep it from being submerged

irbdevelopments new vgt will sort the turbo lag... Now if only I could afford one

Any pics?

Thanks for the heads up, just need to figure out the design that will work first (doesn't need removing for starter motor)

Got under dash, tweeters on top of dash, and 6x9's just behind the rear bulkhead. If I can't hear it I will go to the doctors 'cos I will officially be deaf

Possibly the most irritating job on a 200tdi defender engine. Having gone through 4 starter motors (solenoids kept dying due to swimming lessons). Afraid it's drop the downpipe, whip out the washer bottle and then jiggle it about till it drops out. I want someone to remake the down pipe but i can't see a way that will work.

Have a look at my project page for where I mounted mine. I was aiming to get the engine hot first as opposed to the cab http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=65212 But you can plumb it differently depending on your preferences. Good and bad point from my experiences. Can use the Ebersacher water pump to get rid of airlocks when refilling the rad, however you can introduce far more when you mount it up high... DOH. Mounted as best I could with what I had. Suggest you spend some serious time deciding how you want to mount it all up first before you start cutting pipework etc. I got the adapters from ebay and are AP something silicone ones. And yes I realise the silencer is going to come off on the first real bump.... But again worked with what I had and will mod when it falls off. On the plus side the passenger footwell heats up nicely

Assume you have checked the cyclone filter on the side of the engine? Mine got blocked and threw a load of oil into the airbox. Only noticed when I went to change the intercooler pipes and took the box off. Sufficed to say a thorough wash out with gunk and a dry sorted it all out. (Best case scenario I would guess)