sotal

He said something about the fronts having 3 nipples and needing to do 2 together then the top one on it's own (I may have that the wrong way round but pretty sure it was something like that) - seemed to know what he was on about. He's had the 200tdi for years and done the brakes a few times.

I don't know, I ended up driving it round the fields the other day for a few hours doing some jobs - luckily only in low box so plenty of engine braking. Each time you pressed the pedal your foot went right down to the floor but it would stop - but not with a great deal of confidence! Wouldn't the pistons eventually come out if it was pumped and then if there was friction - cause it to stick out?

I notice there is another thread about this although this problem is slightly different so thought it best to start a new thread. 1999 - td5. The fuel pump was replaced a couple of years ago. When you turn the key (before you start the engine the pump makes a loud whine) when you start the engine it starts normally and the whine instantly drops - if you stand at the back you can just about hear the pump but the tone definately changes when the engine starts. Does it need a new pump or is it something else? Thanks

My inlaw has a 200tdi which has a little issue with the brakes. My inlaw changed the discs and pads and pushed the pistons in on the calipers to do this. Since replacing the brakes are rubbish and your foot goes right down they do just about work but not good at all. He has tried to bleed it and there doesn't appear to be any air in it. Somebody said something about pushing the pistons in and how it can do something in the master cylinder - is there something that can go wrong and if so how do you fix it? Any other suggestions? Thanks.

I presume the front wheel bearing is on the way out as there is a very slight amount of play but the ABS light comes on occasionally when cornering. I presume this means the whole hub needs replacing? If so any tips on which ones to go for? I've been told that pattern parts just don't last. However I've seen a pattern part one for £85 delivered. The local parts place does an OEM for £220 - but recently I've been suspicious that they just put OEM randomly on some products to charge a higher price. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks (Forgot to add it is an early td5 on a V plate)

Yes it's a 200tdi starter motor going onto a 2.25 diesel. Looks like it will all fit was just worried by the different number of teeth but from the info above it all looks OK. Was just going to change the brushes before fitting it, but finding 200tdi brushes is harder than I expected! (ok I only searched ebay but still) so may just fit it as is, the brushes still have a bit of life in them, but I guess I'd prefer to fit and forget rather than need to replace them after a while.

Thanks for that - I think that confirms it for me, just imagined it jumping but then thinking about it I remember working in a model shop and people used to buy different sized pinions for their remote control cars to alter the speed etc.

Does anyone know how do dismantle the front part to swap over the pinion gear if needed? I can't see a way of taking it out

This was the one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-Freelander-XEDI-Lovely-condition-well-looked-after-rare-good-one-/160791197297?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item256fe6f671 I'd seen it outside of ebay and the asking price was £1700, on ebay it fetched £1625 so close to what they wanted. I watched the auction incase it went for less than £1500, for future referrence when looking at others was it worth it?

It is in excellent condition bodywork wise etc. I would have preferred leather. I think around £1500 would be more reasonable.

I've got a series 3 5MB engine, the starter motor had gone very weak. After a bit of looking around a number of people told me to fit a 200tdi starter as they are a better motor using more modern technology - gear reduction to boost torque etc. Sounded great and I sourced a known good 2nd hand disco starter which appears to be in very good condition. But before fitting I thought I'd check it over and I noticed that it only had 9 teeth where a the series one had 10 teeth. Am I stuck? Can I swap the pinion gear over from the series one? or does it just not matter? or do some 200tdi have 10 tooth ones? How have others gone on?

I've seen a 2000 2.0d 5 door which looks very tidy for £1700 with 107k. Just seemed a little pricey to me - what do you reckon?

I'll move the trailer over the main distance on it's own wheels/jockey wheel (bit of tarmac and grass) then when I put it up on end it will be on concrete slabs, from there I need to go round a corner then a couple of meters. I think the bigger wheels will make it to restrictive with regards to steering. Probably easiest to start with the castors especially with the encouraging post above and see how they go on Thanks for all the ideas and comments

Not directly LR related but I sometimes tow the trailer with a LR! Anyway just after a few ideas. I have a small trailer which has come in handy on a number of occasions. It's only about 4 foot wide by 5 foot long (plus A at front) by about 3 foot high. The problem is although relatively small it still gets in the way. I did store it for a while up on end - the lights are recessed so it can stand on it's tail. The problem with this though was that it was very difficult to move around once on it's end. I have a perfect spot for it but it would have to be moved on end to get it there. So I'm after ome ideas for a way to move it. My first thought was a board with HD casters underneath which could somehow clip to the end of the trailer. Another thought was to mount casters driectly on the trailer. I have 4 fairly heavy duty looking casters off a large tool cabinet which may be up to the job. I could weld some tubes on and push these in when required and pull them out after. The problem I could see is that tipping the trailer up onto it's end could bend the casters or the tubes as it pivots on 2 of them. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated

We fancy a swap from the Mpv we currently have and I was thinking about a freelander. Don't want to spend a fortune, absolute max is going to be £2500 but would prefer less. We won't do a huge number of miles each year - probably about 6-7k mostly round town, but we will need to pull the caravan (only a smallish 1000kg caravan) plus have room for the dog and the kids stuff. I there anything to look out for? I don't fancy the hassle of changing HG's so don't fancy the 1.8 - so I presume this leaves me with the diesel of which I think there is an older 2.0d and a td4 2.0 - is that correct? Is either favourable? Is the td4 as bad as the td5 as I've known a lot of problems with the td5's in the discos.

My father in law has 2 keys for his td5 discovery (1999) The first key works fully for the car. The second key doesn't. They have always been like this since he got the vehicle about 5 or 6 years ago. The second key fits the locks etc but the remote doesn't work - the light doesn't even light up even with a new battery. The circuit board looks like it has been wet at some point. The key also won't start the disco so isn't deactivating the immobiliser. How does the immobiliser work on these? I expected that if you unlocked the disco with the working fob that the dead key would still start the engine? What would be required to get the key working again?

My father in law sent his Discovery in to have 2 power steering pipes replaced, since it returned it has been noisy on idle. It went back to the garage who said they have replaced the chain guides, and the bottom pulley but it's still no better. The noise seems to go away above about 1000rpm but is there below. Tried the obvious checks for anything loose rattling etc but can't stop the noise. It's hard to tell where the noise is coming from but it sounds like the front. I would guess at the passenger side. I recorded it on my mobile phone so will upload the video to demonstrate the noise. Any ideas what it could be?

Is there anything worth doing to these? I had problems starting, so removed the starter motor and stripped it down. It seems to have a date of 1982 on it, but visually it is in excellent condition. The bushes look very good and have masses of meat left on them. There is no obvious burnt smell and no sign of damage. With the solonoid removed, if I connect the jump leads to the battery of a running car then to the starter motor it does spin but not as fast as I would like. You get a load of big sparks as you touch the jump lead and it tries to weld itself to the nut. The motor kicks a little but not violently then spins but not all that fast. I don't have that much experience with them though so not sure if that is as good as gets or if it's a bit knackered? The only other one I've had on the floor like that was a 300tdi one, and that one was really violent and span really fast, but was obviously more modern etc. There isn't much to them, I'd seen that you can buy an armature for £17 would that be likely to fix it? Is there any tests I can do? The series is just a hobby and I don't want to spend too much on it (got to get a new battery as well!)

I take it you don't have a standard engine fitted then? As the key doesn't normally turn off the engine. So that might be part of your problem if you have replaced the ignition switch? As standard you have to pull the engine stop cable.

To cycle through the modes on mine you lightly press the power button (not a full click). Then to turn on or off you press it a full click. It turns on to the last setting used. The only downside is you can accidentally change mode when you mean to switch it off, I use mine on the bike it cost £19.99 with a bike mount and a rear light. The people I go cycling with also have the same if 2 of us are cycling along a country lane and a car sees the lights coming they pull right over in a passing point etc thinking we're a tractor or something like that! They really are fantastic! If you're on the look out make sure you get a CREE one as they're the latest type. There are then different versions of CREE.

I've got a pair of 1300 lumen torches now they're bright! They use the Ultrafire type rechargeable batteries. 1 torch with a charger and two batteries is under £20 delivered from the other side of the world. Same as this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UltraFire-C8-1300Lm-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-Flashlight-Torch-2x18650-Charger-/280746332590?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item415dc911ae Very bright - you wouldn't want to shine it in your eyes!

In the UK it's very rare to find them fitted to petrol cars because most petrol cars heat up quick enough all year round, but in other countries they were used more. As above the LCD screen will probably be the 7 day timer which will allow you to program in an on/off time for each day, so you could have it fire up at 8.15 for 15 mins so that when you go out to the car at 8.30 the coolant is all warm - this is much kinder on the engine for starting and running straight away, but also gives you heat straight away. I have a similar system fitted to our other car but it doesn't have the timer, it's a diesel but in the winter it takes forever to warm up on it's own, with it disabled the needle doesn't move by the time I get to work. With it on it's warm by the time I'm down the road. Ours is a simple system and just works off three parameters. The engine is running, the temperature of the coolant is below 85*C (IIRC) and the outside temperature is below 10*C

I was thinking it was worth £500-£600 but got the feeling the bloke wants a good bit more

They did petrol versions as well as diesel versions so it wouldn't 'have' to have it's own fuel tank. Just looks like a standard webasto heater to heat the coolant up on cold days when the engine struggles to get warm.