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To be honest I would prefer to sell with a clear conscience - so will leave it as is - I thought perhaps they were run with thicker oil as they got higher anyway?

I'm not infront of it at the moment, but I can't think of a large pipe - there is a couple of small ones like the one from the left hand bank, Can you spot it on the following photo that I found on the web:

I'll give it ago but I've tried running without the cap on etc and there doesn't seem to be any unusual pressure - thanks for the tips though

I'd happily accept £1500, may see if a different oil makes a difference, it's currently on 10w40 - is any particular type of oil best to try or just a thicker one etc?

When can you hear that? On idle of when reving? What relation would that have to disconnecting two injectors? Thanks

Been having a play today trying to fix it as much as possible before I try to sell. I've done a quick video showing it running: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LSNaqmtxBo That shows how it starts and runs fine, but rev it over 3k and it smokes, any ideas?! Does it sound normal when ideling/revving? Does it sound like it's missing or only running on 7 cyclinders etc? I'm pretty sure I'm going to sell as is on ebay Just as an out of interest type thing, whilst testing I did a quick video of it running with the front 2 injectors disconnected - so it should only be running on 6 cylinders in this video - and to me it still doesn't sound bad - what do you think? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koV05FkGrkk

It defo isn't right and personally I couldn't sell it as being right Forgot to mention on the plus side it has LPG fitted! Was hoping to try and get £1500, but might just stick it on ebay for £1k and cut my losses do you think it would go for that? What would you think to trading it in? When I say it doesn't feel fast enough, I've had it running right for short periods of time and it goes like a rocket, but then the oil fouls the spark plug and it messes with the fuelling, at this point the idle revs change and I belive it's missing on one cylinder (still feels quite smooth) after this it doesn't have as much poke, it feels more like a 1.8 mondeo, but still perfectly driveable all the way up to any speed limit etc.

I got a RR P38 project last year which I've run out of time/enthusiasm for. The car itself runs OK and has MOT, but the engine smokes and is burning oil on one cylinder. Just can't make my mind up on what to do, what would you do and please give reasons. I've run out of enthusiasm to take the engine apart again as it just seems an endless job, costing each time for which may not fix it. However I'm not as fussed about breaking it, obviously I'd like to get as much as possible - which do you think would fetch more - breaking or selling with an engine fault? It's an 1998 4.6 v8. I mot'd it so it did have 12 months but that was in May. It's a HSE with a fantastic leather interior. It drives fine but smokes a little under hard acceleration, doesn't quite feel fast enough but is perfectly driveable. Breaking wise I think it would mostly be down to the following parts: Engine (with fault) Auto gearbox - working fine Full leather interior in great condition Full set of 16" Alloys all in very good condition with great tyres Lights Axles Air Suspension parts Is there anything else which would bring a significant amount in? Any ideas on how much I'd be looking at for that little lot? To repair it just needs the fault with the engine sorting, then a new bonnet (dent in this one) and a new wing mirror (current one is useable but broken on back cover). There are a few scruffs on bumper corners etc but nothing major. Mileage is 157,000 What do you think? Please keep this to advice rather than offers for parts etc, as this is the general forum rather than for sale. Thanks in advance!

Link doesn't work what was the product code / title?

Also add something else to get over £50, and you get a £10 voucher to buy something else

Thanks for the tips, One of the best diagrams I found on the web was this one: But I did enquire about some parts with a supplier and they sent me a pdf which had a better diagram - it's a bit big to post here but if you want a copy send me a PM with your email address and I'll forward it via email to you.

Same here, they've lasted plenty long enough for me

I've not had chance to look much further, I need to use it again in a week or so, so don't want to strip it down fully yet as it's just about usable! But I do plan to fully strip it ( so far I've only stripped the carb ) So did you manage to get yours running right in the end or does it still rev after idling? I plan to put some clear fuel pipe from the tank so I can see if there is any air being drawn in. I take it the vent pipe with the screw in just allows air to replace the fuel? I guess this isn't 'measured'? If I remove the screw will it operate at the best it can? I presume the screw is just to stop the fuel running out when you tilt the saw?

I had a 12v cheapy one that died, I removed the battery and hard wired a length a wire in with crocodile clips, so it can be connected to a 12v battery - mainly used in the caravan as a leg winding tool and a screw peg extractor. I've never dared to the welder trick. I wouldn't ever bother with cheap drills again. Not only do the batteries run out quickly but the drill just doesn't perform they just feel like toys. Last time I needed a replacement I opted for a pair of second hand Makitas from ebay. They're 2006 models and came with two batteries each and a charger each. They're Nicad batteries so not the latest technology but I figured with 4 batteries I should get some use out of them before they needed replacing. They cost me £80 for the pair so £40 each so not much more than a cheapy drill. The difference is amazing - they just work, they don't give up half way through screwing a screw in, they feel solid, they have electronic breaking etc. I've had them about a year now and the batteries still work perfectly and last loads longer than any other drill I've owned Sorry if I've gone on a bit but buying the Makitas was one of the best decisions I've made with tools

Thanks for the reply - the diaphrams etc all look to be OK I believe from what the previous owner said that these were changed 18 months ago. What pipe from the crankcase to the carb? I don't think there is one??? Where abouts would it go from and to? It could be but it doesn't smell particulary rich, and after cutting out it requires choke to start up again Thanks for the thoughts though

If it helps at all the carb is a: Tillotson HL-292B

I can't help with the tooth count but I have a couple of photos of the transfer box during my series 3 gearbox rebuild, not sure if will help as you seem to be more after details on the LT230 - but you did mention about wanting to be reminded on the series internals: Mainshaft showing the end which goes into the transfer box: Shot of the transfer box internals: Just another angle: Hope that helps

I've attached a few pictures to ask questions about, on the first two pictures with just the red circles on it shows a pipe which fits on to a nipple on the fuel tank. The pipe has a screw in the end, and you can see the top part of the tube is threaded which allows the screw to be wound in or out a little. What is this pipe for??? On the picture of the carb, I presume the screw circled in blue is the idle adjustment? And it just moves the starting point of the throttle? Is that correct? It's wound in all the way at the moment so should create a fast idle but it dies before it even gets to that point. Again on the picture of the carb, what is the brass screw circled in red for? It has a number 14 on it. Thanks!

Wow that was quite bad, makes me think mine looked like brand new now!

I looked at a few cheap ones before buying and even a few more expensive ones like clarke ones at around £150 but they all seemed cheap. I ended up buying a proper one from ebay for £50. It was from a little workshop they were getting rid because a health and safety inspector had said they couldn't use it as it didn't have a foot switch I'm glad I went for this one instead.

Well this morning it showed more sign of life. It would start to fire on choke and would then start on normal after 3 or 4 pulls but it would instantly cut out, I managed to grab the throttle quick enough on one occasion and kept it going and did a cut. I couldn't do this again though. I ended up bodging it to work by putting a zip tie around the throttle, this put full throttle on for start up. Once this was done it was one pull on choke then 3 or 4 pulls without choke it starts up at full revs and I can do the cut, following that I slide the zip tie back to release the throttle and it cuts out. I've used it all day like this today and it's coped fine - Only cut out once and that was due to running out of petrol. The only thing I would say is that full speed didn't seem quite fast enough - it certainly wasn't screaming. I tried adjusting the H screw but it didn't seem to make any difference. I've more or less finished the job I bought it for now, I've done all of the most important part, just one small part to do in a few weeks so I'm more inclined to mess about with it now and try to find out what is wrong - any ideas where to start now that I've stripped it fully and cleaned it all inside and it still won't idle?

Thanks for the reply, there is no button for startup. The manual says to lock the throttle using the interlock (which puts it on about half way) then put full choke on and try to start, if it kicks in quickly move the choke to off, and use away. If it fires but doesn't start then move the choke off and carry on pulling. I'm confident the fuel is good now. The spark seems good, I pulled the plug then connected it to the spark plug lead, gently pulling the pull start all the way doesn't create a spark at all but it you pull it firmly as if you were starting it then it gives a good strong spark. Is the float the sort of pin which moves up and down on a pivot? If so that was nice and free moving and clean. I've currently disconnected the cut out switch, the cable was in a bad way, the insulation had deteriated and rubbed through in places. I've currently disconnected it at the switch then put a sleeve of rubber tubing over it to stop it shorting anywhere. The only possibility would be shorting on the other side near the other end of the cable, but I'm guessing I wouldn't get a spark if that was the case. As it won't idle I haven't needed the cut off switch but I presume pulling the spark plug lead will kill it.

I've managed to get by for the last couple of weeks doing the occasional cut with the saw, but I now have a fair few to do at once and the damn things worse than ever! Today it would start up then die shortly after - it felt to me like fuel starvation. After it died I had to use choke to get it to start again. If I tried straight after then it would only run for a few seconds - the longer I left it the longer it would run for (up to about 20 seconds) I stripped down the carb to have a look to see if I could see anything. The filter in the tank was clean, but the rubber pipes feel a little old. The plastic part where the fuel pipe connects to the carb was a little gummed up but still flowing (it turned out to be bits of cork gasket) I took everything apart that I could find and all looked fine and clean so I reassembled. Now it doesn't start at all! The spark is good so it must be down to fuel not getting through. Any ideas? I've also got a few questions: When stripping down I took the H and L jets out. One is very pointy the other is blunt at the end - is that normal or has one broken at the end? The idle adjustment - is that literally just the screw which moves the throttle further on? There was a brass screw further in which seems to be in all the way - this has 14 on the top - when wound out it has some kind of hole through it - any idea what this is? Is it normal for the blade to spin when pulling the pull start? It seems to spin all the time. The rubber tube I mentioned before with the screw on top just goes to the tank - any idea what that is? It just connects to the top of the tank - removing it made no difference. It was running better before with too much oil in, but smoked and spat black out of the exhaust. Now with the correct fuel it runs better in that it doesn't smoke at all and doesn't spit, but runs worse in that it keeps cutting out. Thanks for the help

I'd go with the suggestion above using a small generator and a small angle grinder. Flap disc in the grinder is the quickest way I've got of removing rust. You could though get a fairly decent battery powered drill (Makita etc) and a variety of wire wheels (cups, wheels etc) then once the bulk of the rust is chipped away that should clean it up within a few minutes - probably the cheapest way

Turned out to be that the stop cable had rubbed through and was earthing stopping it from starting. Correct fuel mix seems to have stopped the smoke, not sure about the black liquid yet as that only happened when it had been runing a while. Still won't idle though