b101uk

The best headlights for off-road use are sealed-beam As your headlight wont fill with water/mud/etc & they are dirt cheep As has been said, the correct height setting makes a big difference making the standard lights more than adequate. Headlights are normally set at between 1% & 10% (dependent on headlight height) with the most popular settings being 1% & 2.5% for the dip beam cut-off 1% = 5cm drop over 5m distance or 10cm over 10m 2.5% = 12.5cm drop over 5m distance or 25cm over 10m

Put one facing backwards up agenced the passenger side bulkhead & the other facing forward near back on the drivers side, this would give access past the rear most seat threw the rear door & would allow the kids to interact with each other more easily. Remember you would need 2 right hand side (o/s) seats to do this or left hand seats to position oppositely.

Well I had up until Nov last year been a land rover 90 owner since 1991, the Non PSA 90/110 land rovers I consider “just right” so I wont my PAS to have the same responsive feeling as NON PAS boxes. The resion I hate PAS is it is seldom done correctly so isolates the driver from the road to much just as a steering damper dose, have driven enough LR products over the years to know that they are overly light for fast road driving or for technical off road driving. Also I was thinking halving the pressure would also reduce the HP requirement that the PAS needs giving better fuel economy & because the pressure is reduced then flow at the lower pressure would increase at the same given rpm. Hi Matt

thanks

Not having had a land rover with PAS (I hate PAS) I am looking at getting an early td5 90 Anyone know if its possible to reduce the pressure that the pump supplies to the steering box in order to stiffen up the steering to give it more feel rather than the sensation-less girly overly light steering that 200/300tdi & td5’s are afflicted with?

Hi How many key set’s/alarm key fob would come with a year 2000 LR90 td5 when new? 2 sets i am guessing?

Hi Yes the exhaust brake is standard on turbo SBU Unimog’s, but then braking wise stopping the SBU’s has never been a problem due to the big disk brakes, Telma brakes cannot be used on Unimog’s due to the torque tubes that enclose the prop shafts. Designing & Fitting an exhaust brake to a Land Rover isn’t really a problem, the problem is the Land Rover engine, they are simply not robust enough to take all the extra loads, are the turbo chargers designed with high pressure seals on the exhaust side of the turbine to cope with the back pressure that wouldn’t normally be there, would the exhaust manifold and gaskets and its attachment to the head be strong enough for the back pressure that wouldn’t normally be there, on newer modals when cold the EGR system is going to be a problem even when hot will the back pressure force it open, are the valve guides + sealing effectiveness enough to stop pressure leakage etc into the engine via the stem and guide, are the valves, seats and alloy of the head going to be ok as a compressed hot gas is always hotter then an uncompressed hot gas, how will it fair with the electronics of a CRD and ECU’s as light automotive ones won’t be programmed or triggered like on truck ECU’s. b101uk

i have one on my Unimog, i use it all of the time and it saves alot of brake use, usefull off-road and on-road, is like changing down another gear in engine breaking

If the download is made up of a number of files named like "xxxx.001, xxxx.002, xxxx.003" etc then it will more than likely be a compressed spanned file containing an DVD .iso, if so get a free compressed file program like winRAR and browse to the 1st file in the sequence “xxxx.001” and open it with winRAR, you will then see a single file called “xxxx.iso” witch can then be extracted to a specific folder, as winrar automatically reads the spanning dater from the 1st compressed file it automaticly extracts from “xxxx.002, xxxx.003 etc“ an .iso file is basically an CD/DVD image file witch most good burning programs can use to burn a disk. b101uk

mm that just look like standard Rose joints to me, witch most large bairing shops would sell at ~£15 to £30 each.

“But you cannot be 100% on the quality and well being of the wire rope on each winch tested and not everbody is gonna have a valid test cert for their wire.” You cannot be 100% on the quality and well being of the synthetic rope on each winch tested, a valid test cert is irrelevant on the wire or synthetic rope, as the installation on the winch won’t have been tested as the test cert only applies to the supplied rope and fittings and not the complete system as installed my winch has a S.W.L as per its instillation and valid test cert for the complete system the joys of an fairey 525 As I don’t employ people and own all my own equipment there is no specific resin for me to have had “Risk Management Training for winching“ though I am conversant in most aspects of HSE requirements with regards to winching and lifting in both forestry and quarrying, including “Extraction by forwarder” “Extraction by skidder” “Tractor units in tree work” “Use of winches in the directional felling and takedown” “Winching operations in forestry” “Extraction by cable crane” as well as I fabricate and made quite a lot of lifting and pulling equipment in the past and have had it certified by competent persons. As you have probably guessed I occupied the ~20% of work that “synthetic line” is not used as it has to higher Risk potential and to short a life span, in 21 years I have never broken a wire rope using winches from hand powered monkeys & Tirfor up to 125t on the back of dozers operating in about the most demanding and dangerous aspects of winching and as such I am fully conversant with the calculation of MA and forces etc associated with there use and or equipment selection etc, this is why I know high grade wire ropes given in my prior post/s are stronger and infinitely more durable than synthetic rope based on personal experience and that of my pears. However if you were to intuprate “However inabout 80 percent of Arbour operations” correctly you would see that is inclusive of climbing operations witch is 99% synthetic or natural ropes or in relation to strops is a bulk of the use, the reminder is skidders etc and Tirfor hand winch etc as listed above non of witch use synthetic rope as it is not suitable or fit for the purpose. It is true that synthetic is “lower Risk score” but only when it goes wrong threw the ineptitude of the operator/s and the rope snaps, at all other times high grade wire is safer, no ifs or buts as it is physically more resilient to accidental damage witch typically happens when things go wrong, of cause if you wish to compare high grade synthetic rope to low grade wire like most people do in there ignorance then that if fine, but a more fair comparison is agenced medium to high grade wire ropes Of cause if you’re confident in your synthetic rope then fine, but it’s like the old saying “There is fishing tackle for catching fishermen and fishing tackle for catching fish” b101uk

"The rules - only plasma rope and at least 75' of it so we can do a 25' pulley block pull, no steel rope under any circumstance." Err why only HMPE rope? Under HSE guide lines I cannot use it as it is considered unsafe and not suitable for winch use in harsh work environment like forestry etc it is a TOTAL myth that HMPE rope is stronger than wire rope it is only stronger than low grade fibre core wire ropes, this is a FACT, no ifs or buts but the HSE still rate for safety a “low grade fibre core wire rope” above any HMPE rope B) Plasma 12 Strand Pulling Rope p/n 08092015, 9mm, 17,500lb MBL p/n 08092020, 11mm, 21,000lb MBL p/n 08092025, 12mm, 31,300lb MBL p/n 08092030, 14mm, 37,900lb MBL Normal 2160 Grade wire ropes like Notor HP 35x7, 28x7 or Eurolift 40x7, Flexpack 34x7, 37x7 or Starlift 35x7 or many 100's of others types and makes. 10mm, 30,570lb MBL 12mm, 34,280lb MBL 13mm, 36,460lb MBL 14mm, 42,260lb MBL And this isn’t including exotic wire ropes Just to bad I won’t be able to make it with my P.T.O fairey 525, as I think I am working away + wouldn’t waste my cash on HMPE carp!!!! b101uk

Recalling from memory, the maximum speed limit for trailers in the UK is 60mph on dual carriageway and motorway and 50mph on all other roads, obviously if no other limit is posted that is lower! As for initial trailer set-up when connected to the towing vehicle, a single axel trailer should on level ground be in a slight nose down position from horizontal >2deg to <5deg, this is so under sever braking it dose not unload the rear axel of the towing vehicle, with twin axel centre line trailers they should be set on level ground between horizontal (0deg) and 1deg nose down, no trailer should ever be nose up! You should always make full use of the maximum nose weight on the hitch, witch is normally between 50kg and 120kg dependent on both the trailer hitch and towing vehicle hitch always deferring to the lowest value for the combination Loads on trailers should be place as low as possible and as far forward as permitted by the static nose weight, if you were e.g. carrying sand bags rather than stack then just forward of the axel to get the correct static nose weight thus creating a high CoG you would utilise as much of the load bed as possible both fore and aft of the axel thus keeping the CoG low and the correct static nose weight as well as stopping the load from moving around as much. If you are not considering off-road forays with your trailer in tow I would suggest you look at different types of trailer more suited to high-speed roadwork, as a 3/4T. Sankey is an off-road trailer primarily by design. b101uk

try "Dieselec services" at Ditton Priors, Bridgnorth, Shropshire. tel 01746 712238, i use them for pumps altinators and starter motors, thay will recon your own pump etc and have all the tooling and test equipment, and can normaly turn them round in 24h - 36h depending what time of day thay get them. i have used them for the past 20 years and would use no other!!!!!! dependent on whats gone in you pump and the parts cost i would guess at bitween £75 to £150 for fixing your pump and testing etc. b101uk

are thay so you can suck/ram as much water/rain as you can into the heater box so you can mist your windows up on a damp day?

The only HMPE rope I have used is Eurosteel and Steelite, witch are way more common than Plasma and available in bigger diameters for less £, Plasma/Dyneema/Spectra are really aimed at sail rigging, Eurosteel and Steelite are aimed at the harsher side of net haling and towing in fishing or tugs and has better abrasion resistance and has very good UV life. But for some job there is just no replacement for normal wire rope as eurosteel/steelite/Plasma/Dyneema/Spectra would last about 30 seconds if your lucky at the end of the day using HMPE is to restricting in what you can do safely with a winch, and if it came to a "safety of life" situation I would trust wire rope much more than any make of HMPE even though wire has less braking strain than the same dia of HMPE, braking strain is only a small part of what causes a rope to brake, a higher braking strain dose not mean a longer life, the wire winch cable on my fw512 is 21years old! I would like to see a HMPE rope last that long with the abuse I have given it I am surprised no one has mentioned that most winches are not suitable for use with HMPE especially ones with the brakes in the drum, and ones that use the winch drum as a heat sink for displacing the heat from the drive motor &/or brake, remember the critical temperature is 65deg C and the Melting point is 140deg C as well as longitudinal twist in HMPE rope also causes a reduction in strength vs. wire rope b101uk

A frames & recovery-towing dolly’s are illegal for use for anything other than “the recovery of a disabled mechanically propelled vehicle to the nearest place of safety”. Things that affect legality of use. >750kg unbraked being towed. Lack of auto reverse brakes. The towing head is not matched to the braking system in the case of A frames with silly things that fit on the brake peddle in the vehicle being towed. There are UK and EU C&U and type approval regs that state that with over-run brakes the only part of cars etc that may be used as donor parts for trailer are, hubs, stub axels and wheels, brake parts may NOT be used, and over-run hitches that use hydraulics + brake lines may only be used with specific wheel braking parts for with the manufacture obtained UK and EU C&U and type approval with, as in the case of some NATO trailers. If brakes are fitted to any wheel on a trailer they MUST work regardless of if it is ><750kg If the vehicle has VED in force or is registered with the DVLA (v5) then it can never be a trailer! Only a disabled mechanically propelled vehicle. If the vehicle has a SORN in force it must not be on the public highway unless supported in its entirety by a trailer or some other form of load bed. The only means to use A frames other than the above is with trucks with air brakes, as you can connect trailer lines to charge the air tanks, actuate the brakes and parking brake on most trucks being towed by another truck, witch is how CP (combined power) and DP (distributed power) works when using 2 or more trucks to push/pull abnormal loads.

mm i have found over years of use that the "Billy 5 Thumbs" version is better! i have also found that if you put "blue 2.5" insulated terminals in the non insulated "6" terminal crimper section up sidedown it dose a much better job than the dumb insulated terminals section that just squshes them! as the former will punch a small hole in the insulation but bend the inner 2 tang 1/2's neatly wile the curved part of the non insulated former will suport the back of the turminal and keep it round!

"you dont need a steering damper, they just tend to drive better if you've got one" i would disagry with that, i dont like steering dampers on my Land Rovers, as thay take the feel out of the steering, but then i dont like PAS eather for the same resion so dont have PAS! as a land rover is not big enough to warant it.

hear is the info you need re: speed cammras and NIP's etc

"only plod in his vehicle with blues on can pass through" err no, it is still ilegle for them, and thay do it at there own risk, thay are bound by the same rouls as us for red lights and trafic islands etc and must give way, and if involved in a RTA while doing so thay are automaticly to blame, no ifs or buts!!!!!!!!!!

if you want good engen how about the BMW 3.2 & 3.5 strait 6 M engens all 280hp to 320hp as standard, normaly mount to a ZF gearbox

I went past the campsite in my Unimog on Friday evening my way to Sarn Helen to drop some stuff before heading back over to Llangadog, met a SLRC convoy with the shire shed in tow about 2 miles before the campsite, coming back from Llangadog about 21:30 the smell from the campsite was horrendous as I still hadn’t had time to eat – it was a barbeque smell mmmmmmmm

well i have to say blue smoke from a derv buner can be eather oil being burn or relate to injection timeing or the fuel its self afecting the timeing, no ifs or buts! about 1 min into this vid as my mog goes up a bank it shows lots of blue smoke, this is related to fuel type and in part injection timeing, my mog is set up for white derv and when runing on it it hardly smokes under load, when runing on red derv its smokes blue under load, if i mix 30% of 28sec burning oil with the red derv as i do for winter service, i dont get blue smoke, yet it dose not use a drop of oil bitween services. http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l157/b10...view¤t=mog1.flv if i take my land rover with its peugot 2.5 in, that smokes blue if left to tick over for 10 mins then reved up, as it has an exhorst valve guide oil seal gone, but it dosent smoke at any other time even startup 1st thing in the morning becouse the injection timeing is spot on and oil from the valve guide becouse of the design of the head can only leek when the engen is turning hence no smoke in the morning, but it dose use oil @ 1L per 1000miles. the trick is knowing what is causing the blue smoke witch makes the difrence, As most mechanics wouldn’t know their ass from their elbow, as they are NOT mechanics they are fitters. FYI: most of the sh!t that is taken out of white derv to meet green house gas emitions etc is put into red dirv, as it is not subject to green house gas emitions limits as its not a road fuel, this is why e.g. sulfer levels in red are * 1000 times high than white LSD derv, so when you hear all theas polotitions saying thay are meating there green targets for road fuel you will know its all a smoke and mirrors!!!! as its all ending up as burnt fuel in somthing anyway!! The only way to reduce emotions truly is to abandon long-term hydrocarbons and go to bio fuels witch are short-term carbon neutral or in many cases actually growing the stuff takes out more greenhouse gases than actually processing and burning the stuff puts into the atmosphere. b101uk

“B101 thanks for the reply- my only query is that your equations look like they rely on a symetrical linear mass distribution which i don't have on my vehicle! could be a bit of an issue.” well if you equate “linear” to equal something that is “constant” and repeatable then what you say is true, BUT Gravity is a “constant” at ~9.81m/s/s, angle is a “constant” that ramps up at a “linear” rate between 0 and 90deg, something will always fall over as soon as the CoG passes lower outer contact point so transfers >50% of mass beyond this point, the ratio of 0% to 100% vs. 0deg to 90deg is 1.1111111111111111111111111111111R:1 witch is a “constant” that ramps up at a “linear” rate, and say for slight changes in geometry from suspension type and how it moves and tyre deflection the dimensions of the 4x4 remain in essence the same (wheel base, track vs. CoG height) and finally the mass of the 4x4 remain in essence the same (accepting fuel use etc and obvious changes) So if everything is a “linear and/or constant” and only 1 thing changes then the only thing that can happen is a linear answer that changes at a constant rate vs. other inputs? BUT If you apply the same formula that I used but rather than calculate the CoG height vs. the “X” plane (left/right) but you apply it in the “Y” plane (wheel base front/back) it tells you the % of distance between the wheels in the “Y” plane the CoG is situated, as the same laws apply front to back as left to right & If you repeat the same formula for left & right, front & back to get the 4 different results and you plot them on a diagrams (top/side/back) then draw lines from the relevant points depicting the outer contact points to the 4 relevant CoG placements giving the CEP (circular error of precision) and the point the lines intersect is the true CoG without error as each angle etc will have been done twice left & right, front & back and each formula yields a CoG height and % offset of wheel base or tyre outer edges. I don’t think I am doing to badly for cooking up a formula on the fly! But as said “I like the mindless use of machinery to find definitives, it works for bus and forklift manufacturers” is best b101uk