ldtopham

Try David Holmes Coaters, Treefield Industrial Estate,Gildersome Gelderd Road,Morley, LEEDS, LS27 7JU Tel: 0113 2527663 I had him quote me last week for x4 ex military 6.5J steels blasting and coating. £120 all in was his price. I have used him for many parts in the past and he has always done a very good job. If you have already blasted them, then you should get it done even cheaper. HTH, Lee PS. I can't help on the PAINT options

Terry has a couple of 235/85/15 AT2's in stock and expecting more soon. He was the best value also at £90+ Vodka And Tonic. I have found another supplier who has plenty but I would end up payying delivery on top of £110 per tyre. I enquired about the rims at VASS and they require tubes, so; x4 tyres at £423 fitted and balanced, all in. x4 Michelin Airstop tubes £30 x4 6.5J steel rims £134 inc delivery Blast and powder coat the above rims £130 Total for a refurbed set of rims = £717 That's a lot of brass to keep it looking Defender like! I may have to consider a set of repro Boost alloys after all What kind of price would I expect to fetch for my v.good 5.5J's with Avon Rangemasters fitted?

Cheers, I'll drop them a line this morning.

Thanks Ralph. Any one in the West Yorkshire area tha can recommend a decent 4x4 tyre fitter?

So potentially I may have an issue in that tubes may be required to seal the rims and the tyres I'm looking at may be too coarse on the internal surface for use with tubes?

Thanks Ralph. I've just searched and I don't think the At2's are available in 255? The extra dia can only be a good thing as far as clearance goes? Is it the rim design that permits the use of tubes or the tyre design, and should or shouldn't I run tubes?

Now I know this subject has been done to death and I have done a good search for previous recomendations and views. I am looking to replace my rims with something similar but with a much improved tyre. I am not bothered for the original Boost alloy style and much prefer the steel white rim that is common to a lot of Defenders. Current spec; Current vehicle 1997 300tdi Defender 110 CSW. 5.5Jx16 (dated 2002) LR steels with 7.50 Rangemasters fitted. Bearmach TuffBack dampers and HD springs all round. I'm looking for a decent all round tyre. I do a little off roading, and about 5000 tarmac miles per year. I would keep the Rangemasters and 5.5J rims and I also have another set of steel rims with Continental tyres that I could use through the summer if better suited. I would like to know if there are any problems that I have overlooked with the use of the following such as backspacing, body work clearance, tyre avaialbilty etc: I am considering: x4 6.5J 1 ton steel rims (Vass) to blast and powder coat x4 General Grabber AT2's (If I can get hold of any) The questions are: Would the AT2 235/85/16 be best suited or should I be looking at an alternative size such as 255/85/16? Will the 6.5J 1 tonne rim cause me any fitment problems? Will I notice any difference over the Rangemasters? If anyone has any 6.5J steels that they are looking to sell or maybe deal on 5.5J's please get in touch or even a set of AT2's. Cheers guys.

They sound just like what I was looking for . I hope you find what you need. If not please post a reply with your findings to warn other DIY'ers of the potential £££ for aiming to do a job thoroughly Cheers,

The old adage 'buy cheap, pay twice' rings true in this case! £50 down on carp parts and now a trip to LR Dealers in the morning to spend probably another £50 Thanks for the reply.

........a decent quality water pump for my 300tdi Defender. This is the 2nd pump to fail on me within 5000ml. I drove home tonight with no alt, power steering and more importantly no coolant flow. I stopped every 1/2ml to let the temp drop before making the final 2 mile home. This was supposed to be an 'uprated' pump. The supplier has not been true to their word so I will not be going back to them for a third time. Who sells or what brand is a quality item? Regards, Lee Pics here; http://s645.photobucket.com/albums/uu178/ldtopham/?action=view&current=DSCN6115.jpg

Mo, Is it the rear calipers? I ask because I split one of mine when refurbing them last year and could not get the seals from anywhere. Mine were the ruber cylindrical type and not o'rings. I ended up buying a replacement caliper from Keith Gott and retro fitting stainless pistons to the new caliper. The cylindrical seals were used on my 1997 110 Defender 300tdi original rear Lockhead calipers. I didn't split the other 3 after the finding of no replacement seals. If yours are defintely o'ring type seals ignore all the above. Regards, Lee

In case it is of help to anyone else I have now sorted this problem. It was the the seals within the master cylinder. I put a genuine seal and primary piston kit in the original master cylinder as the bore was good. A 1 hr job. It now drives great again. Thanks for you assistance. Lee

Ay, summet like that

Reet then, after tha's teckin whippet ahht in them there fields al get a seal kit sorted tha naas and hopefully Bob's your fathers brother

AFAIK it is the original MC. There are still what appear to be factory witness marks on the brake fittings to it. I'll check the cap too in fact I may have a new spare one that I can swap out. I re-flushed and bled the system again on Friday. I also checked that the rear pistons were free to compress back in to the calipers. The idea there was that maybe I had fitted the wiper seal retaining rings a little to deep and causing stiction to the piston. It wasn't the case and all is well there. I really need to study some schematics of the MC and servo operation to decide where to start after the cap vent check. The servo or pedal have not been adjusted in anyway. It may be some carp got pulled through the MC when pulling the new fluid around. I did the clutch fluid on Friday, it was 'as black as the fire back'