moose

It depends on the tires how much you have to cut a way the body My truck has a 3in lift on the back and 2 on the front and i run 235/85 tiers I took these pics when doing the first fit I then cut/trimmed the front and rear arches... But that was still not enough so in the end I got some of those plastic arches and cut lots off the doors and front/rear wings... Hope this helps

warthog, out of interest what metal did you make the dies out of? and how much pressure (or how big was the press) was need to do that 4mm plate ? thanks

I have installed a few Southdown Snorkel's on disco's, the way i did it was to mask off the the area (with normal masking tap) and use a jig saw with a good metal blade. cut the hole a touch too small then finish it off with a file the wings are only alu so very easy to cut and file. hope this helps

I have used this in the past gps drive bit geeky but will do every thing that brand software you paid for will do B)

I don't think that dislocation cones will be making the noise cos the spring will be fully located in normal driving. have you checked the diff? as when they are on there last legs they can make a clunk as you take up drive forward/backward..

the orginal sills would only have been around 1mm thick why not use 3 or 4mm box and then they could then be used as rock sliders....

thanks for the input, i will now start looking for some 24 spline inner front half shafts

sorry don't know what the thread size is but.. on the track rod, one end is left hand threaded and the other right.. all i have in the past to strengthen was to sleeve them is some decent thick wall tube... hope this helps

managed to pick up a nice Sodbury bargain of a 24 spline 4 pin diff.... now i was thinking of using it in my front axle but i currently have and old school 10 spline front axle (with the short stubby mushroom half shafts, and short cv's). now my question is are the half shafts that go from the back off the cv's to the diff, the same (lenght.. etc) for the 24 as the 10 spline (i know the diff end is different )? or put a different way can i get away with just changing the half shafts that connect to the diff to use this 24 spline 4 pin diff? or would i need to replace the lot cv's etc... thanks for any input Paul

Was a very good well organized event, good number and spread of punches. my truck got through the day ok with only a bit of tree shaping to one of the front wings the damage from the guys that i went along with was one front diff, a winch cable that broke in three different places and a bent drag link. thanks to every one involved in the setup/running

Sorry i know its been a few weeks now but finaly here are some pics from our group of 4 trucks one 90 and three discos again what a great week end B)

james u know what my vote is... prob one the best buys for my truck Comeup DV9000 and it works all day every day... sure u have to change the solenoids to an albright one but apart from the solenoid pack its the same as and EP superwinch all the parts are the same just a different color....

The reason for failure of Rich's belt was water in the timing case. after he drove through that deep lake at Bunny lane we noticed oily water leaking from the bottom of the timing gasket took the wading pug out to release about a pint of water. The belt went two hours later, we think that after emptying out the water the heat from the engine dried it out quickly with all the crud completely seizing the tensioner.

Mike Its not so bad.... remember rich w and myself stripped out his broken cam belt on the grass out side of Romsey railway station while waiting for yourself and mr dlander to arrive with a recovery trailer then was another afternoon (in the rain ) to put in a new belt and replace the rear diff and weld up the pan where it had tried to escape

one of our company diesel Saab's had 20 quid of unleaded put in it and was run until it stopped (really not me i just got a call to tow it home ).. so i filled up the rest of the tank with diesel whipped off the fuel filter and refilled that with diesel too replacing the petrol that was in there It started after a few turns, then a few smoky runs up and down the M27 and it was fine it been in for a service and other warranty work since ...... so all looks clear with the dealer.....

It was a damp weekend .... But very good fun ..... pics to follow

thanks mark, just found this link... simple enough even for me

afternoon all, I am rubbish at electrical things so bear with me if this question seems fairly obvious... over the weekend my winch started playing up it would winch in but not out. the solenoid clicked when trying to pay out but no movement from the winch motor... so i opened up the solenoid pack and clean all the connections etc... and still no joy on the unwind operation so i swapped over the leads form one solenoid to the other and the winch would now winch out (but not in) i think this proves that one of the solenoid is knacked... so my main question is.... every one tells me to get Albright solenoids as they are sealed against the crud/mud, will one of these replace the 2 solenoid that are currently in my solenoid pack? thanks for any input

or 4 ubar cheap get down B&Q and use the tubing they sell for there hanging basket watering system.... connectors as well all my breather r done with this gearboxes, axles, fuel tank etc...

sorry to thread high jack i was just interested in what ratio are you going down to? Edit: ah if i took the time to read the whole thread then i would have seen the question had already been asked.....

Hi, just an idea... how may lines do you have going to the front calipers? 2 or one? If its got two lines then have you have bled from all three bled nipples on the caliper? two on the back on each side, and one on the top facing into the car. I have found that bleeding all three at the same time is the best way.. If you have tried this then ignore me just a lot of people don't realize there are three bled point on the front calipers.... hope this helps

my moneys on a front prop JU.... to check the front UJ's jack up a front wheel and rotate the prop looking for play in the joints.

canoe's, 4x4's so last year this has got to be the way forward your prob already seen it as from the bbc website but any way...

Was going to try a new slave cylinder might even get it stuck on tonight if it stops raining yer been there before with the actuating rod thanks for the help

morning all, I changed the gear boxes in my 91 200 tdi a month or so ago to sort out a very warn input spline, during the course of doing this i also put in a new clutch borg and beck (3 part set) job and new release bearing plus fork... every thing works fine but the bite point has moved quite close to the floor and the last bit of travel need quite a bit of peddle force. I have bled through the system and can not find any air, and neither slave of master cylinder seem to be leaking, i am really sure that bearing and fork are installed correctly. So is there and other adjustment that i could try Or can anyone think of a part that i have miss installed that would do the above ? as always thanks for any input