Dikiy

During last rebuild, I removed this iron-dampers from my Disco93 as well as front brake discs shields. Original bolts with torx has been replaced by M8 bolts marked as 8.8. Don't remember length, probably 30mm. One man on Russia LR-Forum faced with imperial bolt problem on his Disco93. Yesterday I so this topic suddenly and that why I try to find exact answer. Bolt question has been solved. But still the one question: What is the cars which factory without dampers?

Just investigate such question. 1. Bolt- flanged head, 7/16UNF x 1 1/8", patr N 255467 Bolt - Lower Swivel Pin (Where No Damper Is Fitted) - Range Rover Classic - With ABS/Discovery I 2. Screw, pre-impregnated with adhesive, counter sunk. FTC3455 Bolt - Damper - Lower Swivel Pin - With ABS - Range Rover Classic/With Damper - Discovey I or Screw-Torx-countersunk. FTC1623 Countersunk Torx Screw - Damper (With Mudshield Bracket) - Where Fitted - Lower Swivel Pin - Discovery I to JA032849 Metric 8mm, thread 1,25mm, but forgot to measure screw lenght

Many Thanks! FridgeFreezer Very, very demonstrative photo with clutch cover! Thank You. My supposition confirmed.

OK, I understood. But it means all of that covers with wear fingers "Valeo from Britpart"? What about AP or other? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?s=&s...ost&p=45798 Looks like the same problem with AP also? But why? Who is a guilty cover or bearing?

Sorry. Could you be more specific, This is the first time when He seen such wear, or this present on the all clutch covers? All specimens was a Valeo brand, probably it can a problem with producer? Next time I'll go with AP cover, by the way, AP clutch plate has a same diameter as Valeo for Def 130. On the second photo You can see two different bearings. The left one is a FTC5200 the right one is a FRC9568. Please pay You attention on the bearing face Ok, as I understand, there is a good sense to go with alluminium bearing. PS Sorry for my English

No man, this Britpart bearing not a problem. By the way, it was original FRC9568 RB inside Britpart box. I saw such bearing only once. I'm always using original RB or OEM RB which same as original NSK, only package is different.

There is a problem with clutch plate illustrated on the first picture. Clutch plate leafs wear. I know many who faced with such problem, and nobody can explain why. So, anybody knows why it happened? I suppose the underlying cause is a Clutch Release Bearing (self centering) FTC5200. This type of release bearing has a sharp contact surface instead flat surface on old type which not self- centering FRC9568. What is Your suggestions? Is any sense to go with old type FRC9568 or with expensive Alluminium HD bearing?

And one more measurement. This is the same UJ as in my first comparison. Now we have "full picture". There are at least 3 different GKN UJ's all with different niddle diametr, lenght and quontity. The question is: which is the better between UJ's from "green box"?

Not enough 15t. press for removing, better use a big hammer and piece of pipe with appropriate diameter. Just one lucky strike and I'm not asking about replacement method, I'm asking about experience with this Joint. Or there's no sense to use this instead Lemforder or Delphi Lockheed? I'm looking for a really HD parts for my Disco that why I'm start to investigate.

Looks similar but also has a double price almoust: X-Eng Price: £35.49 inc VAT Bearmach: Price: £20.13 inc VAT

Hello neighbour! Yes, I tryed. Any questuions I'll answer. ProComp +4" all around On the front: Britpart HD Yellow Coil Springs - Rear 220lbs/inch DA4203 On the Rear: TJM TLC front springs XGS C/Load Front Coil Spring (70mm) for 80 Series (770FRHD80B) Description Part no: 770FRHD80B Approx 70mm (±3”) lift - Height: 515 - 525mm Wire MAT: 18 Suitable for: Constand Load Spring Rate: 240 lbs per square inch http://dikiy.io.ua/album194104

Does anybody have experience with BM Heavy Duty Adjustable A Frame Ball Joint TRE 76RS? Probably any other propositions for replacement stock joint?

Last weekend I did one more investigation.

and more... I bought this last spring. The left one 6UKP, the right one 15UKP http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/shop/...1/2/0/16/58/698

Here You can see a difference:

This information from Gabriel catalog HOW_TO_MEASURE_EXTENDED___COLLAPSED_LENGTHS_OF_SHOCK_ABSORBERS.pdf

Very urgent!!!! D2 front diff gone.... Is it possible to fit 24splin diff assembly from D1. D2 TD5 1999. I found FTC3272 for D1 and FTC5142 for D2. Suppose it can fit, but still the question what is the difference?

Here is the results: REM-1&REM-2: More space will need for P38A diff casing. Diff casing will be machined to the same diameters as 2pin diff. REM-3: Difference 3mm between "upper" bearings position REM-4: Difference 6mm between crown wheels position The major problem is to compensate 6mm difference by moving diff assembly to matching crown wheel position will cause changing of bearing positions. The "upper" will move approx 3mm inside bearing case (no problem with thread) and "lower" will move approx 6mm outside of case- this is the problem, because not enough thread for diff lock ring. This problem can't be a solved by simple machining but I hope to find solution how to move bearing closer to diff casing.

However I'll try to fit and report here about job next week

Thanks Dave!

vinny Comics? What do You mean? Yes I know about Ashcroft. Also I know about 4 pin diff from D90 rear axel and ARB, KAM, Truetrack and its... I'll go with ARB in front in future, but now I have already ARB in rear and 2 rear assembled diffs from P38A and I want temporary install 4pin diff (must be stronger than stock 2 pin) to the front axel. Still waiting for answer Yes or No otherwise will try to swap in nearest weekends

Anybody knows, is it possible to attach 4pin diff from P38A to the Discovery R&P and use with Disco axels?

Yes I know. There is no any problem to do this. This is very easy and simple solution for me

My friend is a very good mechanic did drilled discs by himself scores of times on the different cars. By the way He drive his car (not 4x4) with home made drilled discs more then 150000km without any problems. But OK, leave this, I don't like this way too. Forget. What about Paddock drilled, EBC grooved or Lockheed without modification? Now I have front vented and rear nonvented. I'm running my Disco like as MT tires 80/20 and 70% off-road usage is clay-snow-covered mountain drive and other part is a bog. That why I want to go with front/rear nonvented discs and probably grooved.

Hi All! I am about to change all the brake discs on my Disco, and I want ask what do the learned forum members recommend? I select some variants: Paddock Performance Slotted and Drilled EBC Turbo Grooved Front Brake Discs This discs are the same what Bearmach sell. Am I right? Or buy the cheap alternative discs and drill them by myself? Brake Disc - front - non vented - Replacement or this Brake Disc - front - non vented - Lockheed What is the best/ effective / justify the price for off road use? Thank Your for friendly advice!