Tetsu0san
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Posts posted by Tetsu0san
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In my experience a noisy injection pump was caused by fuel starvation and the pump having to work harder than normal to get the fuel it needs. One I had on my first 300Tdi I had a failed lift pump and the injection pump sounded like a chicken clucking for some reason! Recently I had a similar issue and although I changed the lift pump that too was faulty. I removed the top of it (it was a Delphi pump) and I could see one of the valves just floating around in the top so I replaced that and all was good again.
You've changed the lift pump? What make did you replace it with, and do you know that the new one is actually working?
Have you blown the fuel lines back to the tank to make sure they're not blocked? Maybe take the pickup out of the tank too and make sure you've not got loads of crud in the tank. You may well have a sedimenter under the rear of the chassis too, so perhaps check to make sure that's not full up with rubbish.
Also, are you sure it's the injeciton pump and not something else? The vacuum pumps can tick and rattle and this can sound like it's coming from the injection pump area.
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2 minutes ago, sierrafery said:
You can use that chart without fear cos they are the same for all... it should be hidden somewhere in Haynes manual too but maybe not visible enough
The chart they use in a Haynes is pretty much on every wiring page as far as I can see. I just didn't think they'd use the same legend as the official Land Rover document. Again my fault for not looking, but being in the line of work I am in you never take anything like this as a given.
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1 minute ago, sierrafery said:
That's what "colour codes" are meaning, each letter is a colour code and when two codes are together the first is the main colour and the second is the trace, the list is shown in all LR electrical troubleshooting manuals/ electrical library
I get all that, but without a legend to tie the letters to a colour the diagram is not very helpful. Fortunately the colour chart you've just kindly provided is what I was missing.
If the colour codes are the same as the Haynes then that's my fault for not putting two and two together, but I'd rather use the chart for the actual diagram rather than making a guess based on what it could be from another diagram.
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11 minutes ago, sierrafery said:
Just as a matter of fact, there are colour codes on that diagram 😉
There are letters, but what colours do the letters represent? What is N? What is K?
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Managed to pick up a hard copy from eBay.
On a related note, it passed its MOT!
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On 2/7/2020 at 12:00 PM, Maverik said:
If you could take a picture of all parts concerned I'd be quite appreciative, I've been looking at kinda doing what you've done but vice versa, I've got a handful of decent later type swivel balls, but I want to keep my 10 spline half-shafts and CV set-up.
Sorry about the delay in replying. I expect you're already sorted out by now.
As far as I know you can change the swivels for the bearing type and it'll make no odds to the internals of the housing so you should be OK to do that. My questions above were based on wanting to keep my 110 as original as possible in there, although I don't really know why as it's got a Defender R380, a Discovery 200Tdi engine, a Discovery 300Tdi transfer box, and a hacked about TD5 exhaust. Not exactly original...
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Hi all
I'm just getting my 2 door 200Tdi Discovery ready for MOT tomorrow and I'm having a few issues with the immobiliser etc. I've replaced the fusable links in the engine bay with a 300Tdi fuse box, and generally most things are working as they should, but I still have some issues with the immobiliser and the alarm going off whenever it wants, as well as the central locking messing around and the windows not working occasionally etc. I'm in the process of bypassing the immobiliser so it'll start every time and I got a diagram from a forum of the immobiliser/alarm wiring from the workshop manual, but there is no colour code so that makes it a bit of a pain.
I know most of my problems are going to be either a corroded feed, corroded earth, or a combination of the two which is why I put in the fuse box in the engine bay. I'm keen to get it all working keeping at original as I can and don't really want to botch it by runnings new wires all over the place so having a proper workshop manual would be really handy.
So after all that rambling does anyone know of a place I can download the entire workshop manual that includes the 200Tdi's? I've got various Haynes manuals and I've got Rave, but Rave doesn't cover the 200Tdi and Haynes doesn't really cover anything important.
I've attached the alarm diagram which I belive is from the workshop manual, so you know what I'm on about.
Cheers
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1 minute ago, Nonimouse said:
I have an NFU multi-car policy. The only issue I have is that it doesn't cover commercial vehicles and the T4 Caravelle is classed as a commercial vehicle
The place I've gone with doesn't mind and I insured my van with them. I do have an old Hilux which isn't on the list of vehicles I can insure, but I suspect that's an easy fix.
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Thanks for all the replies. I've found a company and gone with them. Hopefully this'll be the new start I've been needing!
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So, I bought one. First one I saw too. I know I know, never buy the first one you see but this was really nice, well maintained, and the bloke was only selling it because it belonged to his wife who'd died in April and he had no use for it. it was her pride and joy and she'd owned it for 8 years, which sounded like the most genuine reason for a sale so I figured it was worth the risk.
It's a diesel, slow, but everything works (except aircon). No water in the carpets, good tyres, drives nicely, and in very clean and tidy condition.
All I need to do now is to get another fob working on it as one out of the two that came with it doesn't work. I know it's easy to program a replacement remote central locking fob so I'll see what I can do about that as time goes on.
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8 minutes ago, AlexEvans said:
Looking for advice on installing a headlinging into a 109 Hard Top.
Don't do it.
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3 minutes ago, Simon_CSK said:
I have my own Architectural Practice and have a part time traders policy which I use to help my brother who moves vehicles around the country and for my when I am buying and selling. All above board and have been with the company for 3 years and am about to renew in September. I had one bump last year that was settled without any issue. The cover allows me to work in my day job and in my play job.
I am allowed to have 10 vehicles on the policy and can change them whenever I wish through an online portal. Last month I bought a Range Rover Sport that was vandalised and was collecting it in Gloucester and driving it home (to Scotland). As it was a trade car, i.e. one I bought to sell, I technically didn't need to register it on my policy but to save ANPC cameras pinging on the 400 mile trip with the potential for multiple stops I put it on the night before.
Generally I have 5 cars on the policy at any one time.
May I ask who the company is that you're using for this?
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14 minutes ago, paime said:
First of all, and as my old Texan boss used to say in reference to his collection of guns: "If you know how many you have, you don't have enough." 😄
Are your vehicles used for business of personal purposes? I've just gone through the insurance process with our work Hiluxes and found it to be a bit of a nightmare, particularly for any-driver insurance. In the end i went with Admiral multi-car and named drivers for everyone.
I know I don't have enough! I can still see the drive...
They're used for commuting to work and just personal use. I'm not looking for anything speccial, just the easiest and cheapest way to feed my hunger for buying a bargain, running it for a while, then either selling it on or keeping it.
As a back story I work in IT and I absolutely hate it. I get way more enjoyment from getting my hands oily and fixing up an old car. Ultimetly I'd really like to jack in my IT work and do something I actually want to do. This could be the first step...
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Mornig all
I'm thinking of getting a multicar or a part time traders insurance policy because I have four vehicles on the road at the moment, with another three or four waiting in the wings. I have bought and sold a few cars in the past so a part time traders policy seems like it might be the better way to go, but I'm not sure.
Does anyone have experience of a good multicar or a part time traders insurance company?
Cheers
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Thanks people.
I wanted a diesel because of the fuel economy. I know they're not exactly economic but a diesel would be somewhat better, however the other half is not too bothered and as it's her who is going to be using it then I'm not overly bothered now. An LPG converted one might be nice though...
I'll have to go and have a look at some and see what they're actually like.
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Hi all
My partner is looking for a new car and after trying out two (hopefully just bad examples, but my word they were dreadful) Shogun Sport's she's decided that she likes the idea of a P38.
Me being me I don't want a petrol (yeah yeah, I know....) so I'm looking out for a nice dirty diesel. I believe they're all the M52 (I think that's the engine, same as in the 5 series BMW's?) which I know reasonably well as I had a 525tds a few years ago, so that's not too bad.
I know Defender's and Discovery's pretty well but I've no experience of the P38's. What are they like? What are their problems? Do they suffer with rust? Any other pointers?
And does anyone know of a good one in Oxfordshire (or surrounding counties)?
Cheers
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4 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
You'd best check the engine then - because that box is from a 300tdi
Unless it's been retrofitted
Check the engine? In what way? If it's a 200Tdi or a 300Tdi? They're both 200Tdi's and they're both standard. They both have the same module and they both have one button fobs.
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21 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
A 200 tdi doesn't have modules/ECU's. It is simply relay fed. The immobiliser is operated by the drivers door lock, simply switching off the fuel relay. The window relay is either in the drivers or passenger foot-well, behind the plastic trim.
Central locking issues are simply ageing solenoids or poor connections
I don't think you're right (but i could be wrong). There is a box under the dash which seems to control all of the above, AMR2106. This is what I think is causing all my problems.
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Hi all
I've got two 200Tdi Discovery's which both share a problem, with one being a lot worse than the other. The central locking is sporadic, sometimes very slow to react (if at all), the electric windows occasionally work and then don't (which is usually tied in with the cntral locking not working), and sometimes the immobiliser just doesn't want to play ball. The alarm (or at least the flashing indicators) will go off all by itself too.
I think I'm right in saying that there is one module that controls all these functions. I've bypassed it on one of the Discovery's to get it started and allow me to move it around, but it's not where I want to leave it.
If I am correct and it's the one module, what is usually wrong with it? Is it dry joints, fried components, lose wires, or something else?
Any information would be greatly recieved.
Cheers
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16 minutes ago, jokeruk said:
My 110 had the official 200tdi powerplant upgrade so is not the the disco version.
To be honest I'm being slightly lazy/wasteful as I like the idea of building up a second engine with all ancillaries ready to go in so I've been ebay shopping for genuine defender 200tdi parts for a while.
However I don't want to make any stupid errors through ignorance (a frequent occurrence) So I have proper defender timing covers, my question really was whether all the timing gear from the discovery can be re-used (obviously with a new belt)
I'd read that there was a FIP difference, I'm trying to work out whether that is adjustable or not - there seem to be differing views on messing with the FIP or actually whether you can put the disco one in the defender with no ill effects.
Due to the timing chest being different between Discovery and Defender the timing belt and all that is also different. Not sure what is still available regarding all the gear but I bet you can find pulleys and belts if you look hard enough.
I watch a channel on YouTube of a bloke in Canada (here) who does a lot of Land Rover stuff. A while ago he was pulling apart injection pumps and mentioned that the pump timing is different between a Defender and a Discovery pump, although either can (and have) been run in either and work fine. I bet there are people who have seen differences between the two but personally I haven't. I don't think it's really a concern to be honest.
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If you've got an original 200Tdi in your 110 then the timing case is different so all the geometry of the alternator, PAS pump etc are different. I believe that the FIP is also slightly differently timed internally but swapping one for another shouldn't cause any problems.
However, if your 110 already has a Discovery 200Tdi in it from a previous conversion then the two engines you have should be the same (possibly).
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13 hours ago, dave88sw said:
The engine is the same, its just the fuel pump and injectors that are different. Fit a standard manual fuel pump and injectors and it'll all be fine.
(Some people don't bother changing the injectors, it will run on the originals but the "pop" pressure is different, don't really know what effect that has though)
I thought it was only the wired injector that was different, with the other three being the same as a manual pump. Isn't the pipework slightly different too as the wired injector is longer?
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There's something not right there. You've not changed any of the rockers or the pushrods at all? What about the little caps that go on top of the valve stems, are they still there?
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1 hour ago, kevin50 said:
Thanks Again Mate, Think I might have just the right thing that would do.
One other thing Ive just thought about, Although my air box is in and fitted BUT
It is really the Opposite way to what they are usually fitted, ie the air is going through the Opposite Direction,
Qeustion is Will this Matter ?
I'd say it's not the best way to have it as all the debris that the intake will pick up wiill just sit on the top of the filter and clog it up quicker.
Idle Speed Adjustment
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted · Edited by Tetsu0san
It sounds to me that you really need to work out if you actually have a problem with high idle or if you're just chasing a problem that doesn't exist.
However, it's not uncommon for the internals of an injection pump to stick due to lack of use, but the only time that's happened to me was on a 90 I bought years ago that had been offroaded and dunked in water, driven home and parked up for 2 years. There was rust inside the injection pump as I could see rust on the boost pin and on half of the diaphragm disc, and although it idle'd fine it made the engine sluggish to rev some of the time but then clear and run fine other times. As a complete opposite to this I currently own a 200Tdi Discovery that hadn't been started in over 10 years and is absolutely fine.