Tetsu0san

You should eventually get fuel to the injectors without using the lift pump (if your battery lasts that long), perhaps the solenoid on the injector pump is not live or something. If you get fuel coming out of the bleed screw as disco_al said and nothing at the injectors, I would look at the wire that powers the stop solenoid.

Seems perhaps a little on the expensibve side, but it all looks OK to me. Not everyone would have or keep the service history (foolish I know), and the number plate is clearly visible. What am I missing?

What about this: I actually quite like this Looks like it would be fun

If you are not skimming the head then you should put on the original holed gasket. 1 hole is the thinnest, 2 slightly thicker, 3 thicker again and no hole is even thicker. If you are skimming the head (which is advisable) then put on a 1 hole bigger gasket, depending on how much is taken off. But in all honesty, as long as you put on a 3 hole gasket (or a no hole one) you should be OK. The difference in compression will be minimal. This is just my experience though. I am sure there are some calculations and methods that are more accurate that just my inane ramblings.

But even if you stripped it, it's worth more than that for the engine and gearbox. And judging by the quality of the work, stripping it won't take too long...

Is it me, or has it been lowered?

Could either be a fuel blockage or a faulty lift pump. I had the same problem and it was a combination of the 2. Blew out the fuel lines and replaced the lift pump and all OK.

Lift pump perhaps?

Am I missing something here? Surely the input shaft is longer so you will need the Disco bell housing, and the position of the transfer box will be further back and so the rear prop will need to be shorter and the front prop longer? Or am I being a little thick..

It is unlikely that it has too much compression, but it could be possible. Do you have to take out all of the injectors before it will turn over? Is there any water coming out of the injector hole when you turn it over? On the compression side though, did you put the same holed gasket on after the skim?

I looked at that, but you have 2 longer bolts which hold the main timing chest cover on going straight underneath where you would drill these holes (I think).

I know I have read a thread on someone putting on a Disco 200Tdi timing chest, but that sees like a shed load of work to me. I am really keen to see how this has been done for others too, without doing the timing chest thingy...

Funnily enough I found a rebuild walk through today and in looking through it I think this is the part in your picture too. The question is, how important is it? What damage has been done or is being done with this floating about inside? Also, I still need to figure out the leak from the transfer box...

Hi all I have done a massive 120 miles in my 90 since it passed its MOT the other week, and this is the total number of miles it has done in the last 3 years. When I parked up today I noticed a leak coming from the gearbox area, coming down the transfer box looking like it came out of the filter plug in the gearbox. So this afternoon having googled this I decided to crack this plug off and see what was going on. Firstly the oil is a pinky red from this plug and the oil on the ground was green, so as this appears to not be the leaking oil. I presume it's coming from the transfer box and not the gearbox. Secondly, when the filter came out of the gearbox there was the remains of what looks to be an 'E' clip, as well as a few little lumps of crud. Should I be worried about this? Not having one of these before I am not sure if they are generally noisy on the transmission or if the noise I am hearing is the sound of the mud terrain tyres on the road. There does seem to be a whining noise in 4th and 5th gear, but I don't know for sure. Gear changes generally seem OK, but it has popped out of 1st gear once and reverse seems to only just go in. It does 'clunk' a little sometimes when pulling away, but the clutch is pretty heavy so I put it down to that. Any advice will be greatly received.

I just insured my 90 with 2Gether. I insured my Isuzu with them before and they seemed very good so I went backt to them for this truck. Got fully comp with greenlaning and offroading and driving other vehicles with no no-claimes bonus needed for £125. £100 excess but on 3000 limited miles (not that I want to drive this any more than that). It is lifted, big tyres, rock sliders, diff guards, sump guard, winch and snorkle. Also, when my Disco insurance expires I can transfer the NCB to this policy to keep it going. I was well chuffed!

If it's a worker, then yeah sounds good. Sending a PM...

Hi all I bought a 110 a couple of weeks ago needed a little bit of work, and during its long life it has had a Mazda 3.5Td engine and Range Rover auto convertion. The transfer box has a siezed viscous coupling which is a failry common problem, but the gearbox seems good and the engine is awesome. I pulls like a train and sounds superb. However, I don't know anything about the engine (model, spec etc) so I wondered if anyone here knows anything about this convertion and what the engine is likely to be? It could to with a service and a general clean up, but I would like to know what I am getting myself into before I start. One of the things I would like to rectify is the kickdown as this has been removed to save fuel, but I have no idea where this is or what it looks like. It also needs a rear section of the exhaust pipe, but I don't know if this is going to be a standard part or something more specific. This is just a pipe with no silencer but as this was originally a V8, would this be the original pipe, something more specific to the engine or just a standard N/A or TD pipe? Many thanks in advance.

Like western said it could be an airlock, but it sounds like a head gasket to me I'm afraid (or a cracked head) When they did the head gasket before, did you get a replacement head or just the gasket? It could be that the head was OK before but in overheating this time it may have cracked it, especially if you had it skimmed before. 300Tdi's are known for cracking heads (as I found out...) However, get a pressure test done on the coolant and see if it is rising above the norm while the engine is running.

Is it rubbing to the point that the wheel won't move? I had the same issue where I replaced the drums, shoes and cylinders on my 90. They were all aftermarket bits and the cylinders were Sh*tpart boxed. When I put it all together, the shoes rubbed so much that I couldn't turn the wheel at all by hand. I am going to grind a little off the shoes to give a little more space and this should fix it. This is what you get when you get Sh*tpart stuff. If I had known I would have sent the lot back!! However, the issue you are talking about with the trailing shoe not having a spring to keep it away from the drum is also something else I came across. Both my Dad and I looked at manuals and diagrams and sure enough this shoe is just left hanging. We presume that the trailing shoe is left that way as it is not likely to bind as the normal forward rotation "should" prevent this from happening. I am not totally convinced, but there is nothing else I can do to stop it. There is also a particular way that the springs are put on, and mine had not been done like this before I took it all apart. Try to get a manual or similar and make sure that it is all put back together as the manual shows.

The truck has had this in place since 1996, and only went wrong about 2 years ago so I presume that all the ratio's are correct. I don't have the front prop any more which is a shame, especially if this is specific to the transfer box. So do you think this is a Borg Warner box and is from a P38?

Can you replace the viscous coupling while the transfer box is attached to the vehicle?

Nice one. I spent all morning looking for something and didn't find that. Thanks

Hi all I have just purchased a Warn XD9000i winch which has been sat on the front of a truck for nearly 2 years. I connected a battery and connected the controller and all it does it click. Also, the clutch was set to engaged and it won't move back into the disengage position. My question is are they user serviceable? Can I just open the thing and give it a damn good clean and it will be OK, or are they pretty much f**ked if they are like this? Many thanks in advance

Hi all I am now the proud (I think) owner of a D reg 110 CSW. It's got over 250K on the clock, but it has had a few very interesting mods done over the years. the original running gear has been replaces, the rear axle is a Salisbury with disc brakes, the front has also been replaced. I don't know what the engine used to be, probably a N/A manual diesel but now it has a Mazda 3.5 TD fitted to a Range Rover auto box with a viscous transfer box which I presume is also off a Range Rover. When I bought it yesterday, I knew it had an issue with this transfer box which means that at the moment it is running in rear wheel drive, having had the front prop removed. My question is can I fit a normal Land Rover transfer box, thus giving me Hi/Lo and diff lock, or should I either try to fix it or replace like for like? The engine is awesome and I quite like the auto idea, but I would like to be able to run it in 4wd and be able to give it a little bit of abuse! Many thanks

You can get olives from the same place you bought the pump from I would think. I would contact them and ask them for some. They are only a few pence.