Tetsu0san

I don't regret NOT owning this vehicle.

Sorry to be a bit of a knob, but an IVA was for a vehicle that had been modified in some way? So if you made a trayback and chopped off the chassis at the back you would have had to have an IVA test before? This ruling, if true, would negate this?

Doing work that was totally unexpected! I knew I needed to replace the rear crossmember and the floor supports so I booked 2 weeks off work to do it all, and have some chill time too. But I had no idea how much work was getting involved in and the chill has had to take a back seat. I'm actually looking forward to going back to work to have a rest. Don't get me wrong, I love working on the Landy and I'm glad I've done it but I really hope that I don't have to do it again. So what I ended up doing was: Replace the rear crossmember Replace all the floor supports on the tub Repair (I mean rebuild) the very badly repIred C pillars Put the tub support thats welded to the chassis in the right place (poor rear crossmember repair done before I got her) Put in a new fuel line Fit inertia seatbelts in the rear (been meaning to do this since I got the old girl) Fix some very dodgy wiring Added some more wiring to the rear (just in case) Repair the footwell top where the pedals bolt in Weld a hole in the passenger side footwell. So hopefully next week I'll get her in for an MOT and with all this work she'd better pass. Now all I've got to do is: Waxoyl the chassis Replace the headlights with halogen ones and plastic bowls Fit a radio Cut and fit new rubber floor matting Fit the towbar and associated electrics fix the squeeky rear brakes. Does it ever stop?

Did you put in fresh fuel? Lack of power could be one of many thngs, especially as it has been sat for so long. Injectors could need to be refurbished, could be a fuel blockage or air getting into the fuel, lift pump failure or injection pump issue as well as many other things. Did you change the fuel filter? Might be worth flushing out the fuel system as there could be rust or just gunk in the tank and fuel lines. Does the engine breathe? You might want to check the compression if all the other issues above check out.

You Go Girl!

In my case it's not going to be anything like that. It's only welding and stuff like that that needs to be done. The lights are fine, tyres are good, brakes are good too. It's all the carp that you don't see.

Nice one. That pretty much explains what I wanted to see. So if I read that right I don't need to SORN it as long as it's still TAX'd and insured (which it is). Now I just need to start the work!

I get all that, but what I was asking was about SORN when the MOT has expired. I know it would fail if I put it in right now but I'm not going to be able to start doing the work until after the current MOT has expired.

Hi all Just a quick question. My MOT is due at the end of the month and I know it's going to need some work which will mean having it off the road for a couple of weeks when the MOT expires. Do I have to SORN it until I get the MOT passed? It will still be TAX'd and insured and It won't be driven apart from taking it to the MOT station. Cheers

I've never understood removing the turbo, especially as there are plenty of Series Landys running V8's out there.

Unlikely, but could be. You only want just enough tension to stop it slipping, nothing more. Overtightening will cause the bearings in the alternator and the waterpump to fail. What brand alternators are you breaking?

I would imagine that when you do the bolts up it is twisting the casing on the alternator. It's not easy to see from that picture but if that is a picture of it in place and it has just cracked then it looks like that bolt is not at right angles to the alternator.

Pictures? What engine?

Good stuff. I like looking at other people's work.

I picked up a SnapOn CT6850 from a car boot (I know!) and it's been excellent, but it still doesn't beat a good windy gun. I've heard the Clarke 240v one is very good, and it's not a whole lot of money either. Lack speed adjustment by trigger is its only downside apparently.

I've got a BMW 525tds which has this engine in it and I have to say it's pretty good. I've not heard of head gasket problems in the BMW or Omega's but the extra weight of a p38 may well push it to limits not seem on the car version. Mine has done 168K miles and I've chipped mine and it's pretty good. It's a higher revving engine than the 200Tdi that I'm used to in my 110, but it seems to pull well at lower speeds regardless. The only issues I'm aware of is timing chain chatter from worn tensioner and guides, the injector pump leaking (mine is doing this, and it's a recon pump I believe) but it's easy enough to change the pump gaskets without removing it from the car. There is a breather filter on the later version of the engine which clogs up, but mine hasn't got one of those. I'd certainly be interested in knowing how it goes if you do fit one of these. I was thinking about the time when I have to scrap the BMW and I thought about keeping the engine and fitting it into my 110.

Cheers people!

Sutton Classic Car Show. June 11th. 1pm til 6pm. Got a classic vehicle or just love to see them? Why not pop along to Sutton, Oxfordshire and enjoy a bite to eat, a drink and chat with like minded people whilst viewing the many exhibits on show!!!! Anything welcome, Cars, Push Bikes, Motorbikes, Tractors, Vans, Tractor Units and many more..... Lots to see, something for everyone. There will be a BBQ with tasty burgers and sausages, including vegetarian options available, and some beverages to enjoy too!!! Profits from beverages will go to Stanton Harcourt St Michaels Church. Profits from food will go to Sutton Methodist Chapel. Please note that the entry access is limited, so please call for information if you would like to bring anything larger than a commercial van. 07585 793890. Event will take place whatever the weather! Akeden Sutton Lane Sutton Oxfordshire OX29 5RY

I'd like to know if it would be OK to advertise a classic car event that's close to me? It's an all comers event, anything goes but I'd like to see a lot of Land Rover's there as I'll be taking my 110 and my Dad will hopefully be taking his newly finished Series 1. If it is OK to advertise, let me know as it's only a couple of weeks away. It's non-profit. Just a bit of fun. Cheers

I never use the comparison jobbies for the Land Rover as it's such a subjective vehicle. It's more legwork but if I hadn't rung around I'd have been spending at least double. I used to use 2gether as they were always very amenable over the phone, and even more likely to give a massive discount if you rang last thing on a Friday afternoon. But they seem to have gotten so big that they just didn't really care any more and the insurance premiums kept going up so I went elsewhere. Agreed value seems the same across the board.

Adrian Flux, £105 fully comp on my old 110. Never had to claim though so we'll see.... Oh, and I'm 42 and I haven't got any no claims on this policy (made no difference anyway). NFU were always vastly more expensive than even the next best policy quote, which is a shame as I used to insure a Series 2a with them years ago and they were great.

Are yours pitted? If not I'd keep them and just change the seals and shims etc. If they are pitted I'd try and find an old axle with good ones. A few years ago I fitted a couple of S**tpart teflon ones which actually fitted really well. I did sell the truck soon after so I've got no idea how long they lasted.

I'm just not convinced it's a diesel leak as there is no evidence of a leak by either wetness or smell. But it's an odd one.

Also, I though about stop solenoid too. I'll check the wiring to that.

Yeah, I'm not totally convinced that it's a lift pump as these usually just give poor performance and lack of revs. If I had a leak I would have thought I'd smell diesel?