Tetsu0san

Morning all Iv'e got a slight problem with my 200Tdi in my 110. Its always been reliable, started first time every time, no need for glow plugs or anything, but recently things have changed. It started with the odd time where it would fire up and before the crank has done one revolution it would die. Turn the key again and it would fire up and run faultlessly for days, weeks, even months. But over the last week it seems to have gotten a lot worse. Yesterday I had to give it a little bit of juice on the throttle and after 3 cranks it started and ran OK until later, when it did it again after being sat for about 2 hours. I've just changed the fuel filter as although it's not due a service I figured it's worth doing anyway and this morning I tried it again. It only needed two turns of the key but the issue is still there. The engine is out of my old Discovery and the injector pump has been tweaked, although I don't know to what extent as it was messed with when I got it. It's never been massively fast but the little cap on the top of the pump has been removed and the diaphragm has been rotated a bit. My next step will be to get hold of a lift pump and if that doesn't fix it then I'll drain the tank and have a good look for crud but if that's not it, what else can it be? I have run on veg oil but not for ages, and it was only ever at about 25% anyway.

Mine has twin sill mounted LPG tanks as well as the scuba tanks and the petrol tank in the rear quarter. This is the first one like this that I've seen.

Yeah, that sounds the same. I think the coil is OK, there was just a broken terminal. I'm just not appearing to get any fuel up to the injector rail. There's a valve on it which I presume is to bleed the system or check the fuel pressure and there's no fuel. Once I get it going I'll check all these bits. The exhaust looks old but no holes so hopefully it's something else easy..

An update. So it won't start. Good spark but no fuel getting through. The fuel pump fuse had blown but even when that was replaced it still didn't go. I presume the pump is in the tank as I can't find one anywhere else (again, my knowledge of these is limited...) and I didn't hear the pump when the ignition was on. I did however manage to get a good look underneath and I'm quite surprised as to what I saw. The original fuel tank has been replaced with a smaller tank that's positioned in the off side rear quarter. Where the original tank was are 2 LPG tanks and then there are a further 2 tanks slung under the B pillar on each side. No idea what sort of LPG conversion has been done, but it looks like it's built for lots of mileage on LPG... It needs welding, as they all do, but not a huge amount. There is the usual spot in the rear wheel arch and some areas on the off side sill needs doing. The near side sill is reasonably good overall with only the end needing repairs. There are a few other places too, but not MOT fail areas. Fuel lines are pretty rough looking though but hopefully they'll clean up nicely. The previous owner said that it had failed its last MOT on emissions, so what could cause that? Again, pictures will follow at some point...

I decided the other week that I'd look for a diesel Discovery as I fancied a more upmarket drive than my 110 so today I picked up an L reg 300 series V8. Yes, a V8. I don't really know how that happened either... Anyway, being L reg it must be an early one and although it's pretty rough it's not as bad as a couple of MOT'd ones I've seen recently. It's an ES model, automatic and has an LPG conversion, so that's a bonus. But the reason why I wanted a diesel is that I know sweet bugger all about petrol engines, and I've not even heard this engine run yet... I tried starting the engine earlier but a combination of a very flat battery, one of the terminals on the coil being broken off and the fact that it has been sat for nearly 2 years wasn't helping so I've given up on that today. I'm going to put some fresh petrol in there tomorrow, fix the terminal and check the usual things (plugs etc). Anyway, does anyone have any pointers about the engine and LPG stuff? Again, I know sweet FA about gas conversions apart from the fact that you run on petrol to start with then run on LPG for the rest of the journey and switch back to petrol at the end. I think that's right? Pictures will follow...

What oil did you change? Is it an auto or manual?

The worst case is that the head is cracked and would need to be replaced, but that would still be cheaper and more cost effective to fix than just selling it on as a spares/repair. But as it stands now, I'll give you £500 for it.

Buy a second hand welder and weld it yourself. You'll have a lot more fun and you'll learn to appreciate what you have even more.

Or celebrating that our Land Rover's are going to be going up even more in value! Or fearing that they will become even more attractive to thieves.. But it's sad either way.

Did you put them in dry? I've put mine in with some silicon sealant down the outside to both act as lubricant while sliding it in and then to seal it when it dries. You have to cut the top off anyway but you may find that if it shrinks down too far you will get a leak. While it's in this state of reassembly I would just make sure you're happy with it before you put it all back together, just in case. You can do it when it's in the car but it's a bit of a faff.

Would they have offered a refund if it hadn't gone viral? I doubt it. I suppose their motto is 'bad publicity is better than no publicity'. What a shame.

Even though it's a 'good' battery are you sure it's not just flat?

I fitted one a few years ago, again with no instructions. It failed immediately so I rang the supplier who said you're meant to tighten the head bolts even tighter. But as they are stretch bolts that didn't make any sense? Anyway, removed it and fitted an Elring composite gasket and all was OK after that. I believe that with MLS gaskets you should put some sealer in there? I am sure I read that on here somewhere. But if it did have instructions it would simply say 'take the quality MLS gasket from Britpart, locate your nearest rubbish bit, insert the gasket in this bin and and fit a proper gasket instead'

Things go in and out of fashion but I can't remember anything that has fundamentally stayed the same for so long. Perhaps it's that that is keeping the value and the interest increasing.

I would question the gearbox as the engine looks too far away from the bulkhead to be attached to a Defender LT77. Could be a Discovery LT77 and I could be wrong on either though. Looks like a good conversion though

If your vehicle is at a stop but the engine running and it's rattling then it has to be clutch related, so I would think it's your release bearing. I fitted a brand new clutch into mine when I did an engine and gearbox transplant and sometimes it rattles like a good 'un and other times it's quiet. Might look at it one day.

There are plenty of other people about who have done this sort of thing but your question is such an open ended question that do get any sort of definative answer you need to clarify so many things... What do model Land Rover do you currently have? What engine/gearbox do you currently have? Are you going to use the Discovery gearbox? Are you going to use the Discovery radiator and intercooler? What do you actually hope to achieve?

MOT wasn't due until the end of the month but I thought I would get it in early. Did no preperation for the MOT, mostly because I've been working on the Beetle and the BMW so it has kinda taken a back seat. So took her in this morning, got a call at 1:30 to say she had failed on the hazzards not working. So I went to collect her and had a look at the fuses in the test stations car park before I drove home. I've had a couple of electrical gremlins due to the fuses getting damp and messing around so I wiggled the fuse and it started working. I kinda knew/hoped that this would be the issue so went and grabbed the tester, he looked, and now I have a brand new MOT with no advisories! She's done me proud (again)!

Timing belt is easy but make sure you get the right kit. There are a lot of stories of the cam belt rubbing inside the timing chest and I know Land Rover did a later modified kit for certain engines. It's worth investigating and getting the right one. If you are separating the engine and gearbox then yes, might as well change the rear crank seal. But obviously don't skimp on the brand. Geniune all the way. I only recommend checking the core plugs at the back as it's a faff to do when in situ. I suppose just check to see if they look like they're leaking. There are oil ones and water ones. The water ones will be the only ones that might need replacing.

Ah, just thought. If you move the gearbox forward you do need to cut the seatbox to accommodate the gearbox underneath it. Or get a 300Tdi/TD5 seatbox and bolt that in. I cut mine and I have a seatbox ready and waiting to fit but I just can't be arsed!

The Defender r380 gearbox crossmember will move the gearbox slightly further forward than the one you have now, which would put the engine in the standard Defender 300Tdi position. You can also use the Discovery gearbox crossmember but it will need to be modified to fit, although this is easy enough. But as this will bring the gearbox nearer the front you will need props from a later Defender (I think). From what I have seen the Discovery and Defender r380 gearboxes are the same from a length and mount perspective, but the gearbox selector is different. Like you said though you can get a selector adapter so that would give you the Defender positioned gear lever. So basically: Discovery gearbox and engine straight in - Same props, cut the seatbox for the gear lever and possible new pipework as it's 2" back from the standard 300Tdi position Discovery gearbox and engine straight in with Defender selector - Same as above but you don't need to cut the seatbox Discovery gearbox and engine with Discovery gearbox crossmember and Defender selector - Standard engine position but props may need replacing, and you need to mod the crossmember Discovery gearbox and engine with Defender gearbox crossmember and Defender selector - Standard engine position but props may need replacing I've done a similar conversion on my 110 using a Discovery crossmember, Defender r380 and a Discovery 200Tdi. It had an lt77 geatbox fitted to a Transit engine when I got the 110 but it was originally a 2.5 diesel. All pipework from the donor Discovery more or less fitted but I had to get 300Tdi 110 props as the front was too long and the back too short. I also had to mod the turbo but you wouldn't need to do that as it's a 300Tdi. I also converted it to power steering which was literally a bolt on job. As I was using the Discovery radiator and intercooler I had to modify the radiator mounts on the chassis and also modify the radiator/intercooler cage to fit. Again, easy enough. While the engine is out I would do as much on the engine as you can. Check all the core plugs (especially at the back), do the timing belt and maybe paint it?

Turn the wheels to opposite lock, you'll soon see if your swivels are pitted. Fill with one shot grease anyway, even if they had oil. That might cure the leak but if the balls are pitted it will only get worse. Check for bearing play too, like Les said as this will cause the seal to not seal (if you get my drift). Replacing the seals is not a hard job, but it's the dirtiest job you could do on a Land Rover.

Totally agree with this.

I've never seen that before, it looks pretty bad, but I doubt that would really cause any issues. I looks like poor casting to me, but it could be caused by corrision I suppose. Were you having overheating issues and that is why you pulled this appart?