Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About Alsace_rangie

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    Alsace, France
  1. Intercooler blocked? EGR stuck wide open?
  2. Thanks, that got me what I want, type is RV8P. Had been looking around, and found a part number CWE10032L. But this got prices of €60! The standard key code can be of as low as €4-€6. Bit of a difference!
  3. Hi all, recently moved from long term RR classic ownership (excessive bodywork rust problems) to a '97 Disco 300TDI. Basically in very good shape (the car, not me) but with a few small things to sort out (squeaky belt tensioner pully, whistling turbo...) and one simple thing; I have only 2 keys. one for the door/fuel and one for the ignition. Went to the local key cutting place, but this being France they couldn't find a blank. Looked on the Rimmer site, plenty of key-blanks to choose from, but no indication of which type for a Disco 1. Not easy to tell by looking at my key and comparing with the pictures, and no code or indication on the keys that I have. Anyone happen to know if these are standard for the Disco, and what type they are? cheers
  4. OK, found it. It cut out and I accidentally hit my knee on the steering column. Wipers started. Some time ago I had replace the switch on the back of the ignition, and one of the connections had become a bit loose. The White with red trace, 4mm feed.
  5. Any hint where these links are? My manuals are on CD, and my laptop with CD reader is dead. So first job is to get an external box for my other laptop... cheers
  6. 93 200TDI classic Driving alone in the rain, then heard the radio give it's "turned off beeps", wipers stopped working, electric windows stopped just short of destination. Lights, indicators, rear screen heater, interior lights all working. Checked fuses anyway (all on different circuits) and none broken. Got out of the car, wiggled wires under the bonnet, no change. So gave in, decided to do what I had travelled for and limp home. But getting back into the car, suddenly all came back on. Anyone any idea of a common point for these items?
  7. If by "warped" you mean twisted out of shape by normal braking action, then this is very unlikely. Discs don't warp like this. Look at the hub/disc seating in case that is damaged, plus any play in the suspension. Judder is often caused by pad material being deposited on the disc surface by stopping and holding the brakes on while hot, or some sort of contamination e.g. oil. Also poor disc materials. All can give the appearance of being "warped".
  8. Don't quite get this. You are saying that the "upper class" filters increase the oil pressure by 25psi? Normally oil pressure is an indication of how tight/good the big-end and main bearings are, and of course that the oil pump is working. I would expect a good filter to work well while allowing oil to pass as freely as possible, not double the pressure causing a reduction in flow and load on the pump. If there is a difference in pressure across the filter, it will probably be due to the material itself i.e. how porous it is. Not so easy to measure.
  9. Mineral oils will deteriorate faster than synthetics, especially in older engines where the bores are more worn and combustion products get in the crankcase. At the change intervals mentioned above, probably not an issue. I have always used a moderate quality 100% synthetic BUT changed at mineral intervals (10000 KM). Got my old 3.5 V8 to nearly 400K KM (it was the bodywork that led me to sell it, engine was fine) and is also good for nearly 300K KM on my 200Tdi. I use a 5W40, means that the oil gets round faster when cold and doesn't load the oil pump so much, but has the required viscosity at running temperature. I buy it at the local hypermarket at less than half the price of the "brand" synthetics.
  10. Just to continue the wood collecting theme... '93 200TDI, 240K km, the family workhorse. Pulls horse trailers over mountain passes, goes shopping, oh and up to the forest to drag 3 cubic meters of wood out at a time. Still does better than 9L/100Km (33 mpg).
  11. Posting this here as it's not just a Range Rover problem, more a general 200TDi question that crosses over to Discovery and Defender territory. In general the old car is not bad on the smoke, once warmed up. It started being a bit worse recently, that is smoke when below 1800 rpm, and a bit cleaner once the turbo cut in. New air filter did not make much difference, but a new fuel filter helped (oddly enough). I guess at 230K KM the injectors are getting old, but I dumped in some cleaner and will see how that helps. However the real question relates to some odd behavior. As I accelerate up my "test hill" I get some light smoke, but in 3rd at about 2700 to 3000 rpm I see a black cloud every couple of seconds, not too bad in between. Anyone any idea what might cause this? it's too far apart to be related to one cylinder (engine must turn over many times between "belches") and the only other thing I can think of is intercooler or hoses. My next step is to clean out the intercooler Any other suggestions welcome. cheers
  12. I had a similar problem (Range Rover) http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=84405&hl= The "clean up" I tried in the last post did help a bit.
  13. Short update. Realised that I could stop the draught by switching the heater to "recirculate". So it looks like is something not right in the heater set up.
  14. Thought I'd write this up, as a lot of web searching never found the exact fault symptoms and solution. Symptoms: Came back to the car, started it up and noticed the ignition/battery warning light was glowing. Had just recently replaced (and retightned) the drive belt; no squeal but the light did glow brighter as I revved it. Driving with about 2-2.5k RPM, the light blinked bright to dull. Once home, checked acrros the battery with a voltmeter. Getting about 1 volt more with the engine running. But as I turned things on (lights, heater blower, rear screen) the voltage fell i.e. charge rate not being maintained. Fix: Swapped out the regulator as this is not too expensive, but no better. A conversation with an auto electrician suggested that one of the diodes in the alternator was dead. So some charge being produced, but not enough. Swapped the alternator, problem fixed. Bought the alternator from Craddocks. Paddocks only listed a genuine Lucas part and this was twice the price of the Bearmach part from Craddocks.
  15. Thanks, at least I know I'm not alone! Found that the separate switch part (i.e. no lock barrel) is no longer available, and that the whole assemble for my car is PRC8907 and that costs a lot more than the switch or later models from most suppliers. Anyway, the local 4x4 specialist had a second-hand switch in stock, but with the wrong connector. So using wire cutters, solder and heat-shrink tubing I had a working part. All mounted and back working
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy