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Don Del

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About Don Del

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    La Paz, Bolivia

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  1. While doing some searching about mounting wheel bearings I came across a post by Steve G. dated 21/8/19 about changing the post '99 staked nut and spacer method of mounting wheel bearings back to the twin lock nut method which I have pasted below:- FYI - you can't just reuse the existing spacer after replacing bearings, you have to measure end float and adjust spacers accordingly. This is why most move to early style of locking nuts to save messing around and stocking with various spacers. The later methods is better as its more precise and removes human error, and done correctly the bearings will last longer. Fitting without correctly following spacer method normally results in damaging bearing as you over tighten and pinch bearing. Cheers Steve Given the hassle in possibly (probably?) having to change the spacer size when replacing wheel bearings, especially in the middle of nowhere, it seems a sensible way to go. Anybody care to comment? Cheers, Del
  2. I have read the numerous posts on this site regarding wheel bearing part numbers. My understanding is that bearing part number RTC3429 was superceded by part number STC4382 but the bearing itself remained unaltered. My reason for asking is that I have a '99 Defender 110 Station Wagon which according to the parts manual requires STC4382 bearings and when I checked with the local LR parts (limited) supplier to have some bearings available if the need should arise all they could offer were Timken RTC3429 units. Any feedback appreciated! Cheers, Del
  3. The rear ones look fairly straightforward to fabricate so I think I will go with those as a start point. Many thanks for your help! Cheers, Del
  4. I don't intend raising the truck it is just the additional travel in the shocks that has me concerned in a standard suspension set up.
  5. I have been going around previous posts and that is the conclusion that I have come to. Front and rear or just rear?
  6. I have a 1999 Defender 110 Station Wagon currentl fitted with Boge shock absorbers which are the readily available "standard" replacement here in Bolivia. I have noticed recently that one of the front shock absorbers is giving up the ghost with seal failure. I have also had this happen to one of the rear shock absorbers in the past. Rather than go out and buy more Boge units I decided to see what other units I could source locally and found an agent for Ironman in La Paz who could offer their foam cell shock absorbers at a price! From what I have been able to find out these seem a reasonable product. My only concern is that the catalogue lists the units be suitable for both the standard suspension set up and for suspension set ups with a 2" lift. Fitting these units to a standard set up must result in extra suspension travel and articulation being present with the possibility of dislocating the rear springs. I would appreciate any suggestions for methods of overcoming this potential problem. I have alrady done a search of the site and came across someone using heavy duty hose clamps to keep the tops of the springs in place, dislocation cones have been mentioned but without much enthusiasm. Cheers, Del
  7. Good news and bad news! As suggested by Giles, I was able to adjust the actuating rod fairly easily to replicate the original. However when I checked out the master cylinder mounting studs I found that they did not pass through to the back of the unit as oneandtwo suggested might be the case. Therefore rather than proceed I have decided to order a TRW unit from the UK. The truck is not my daily driver and I have no trips planned at the moment so it will not seriously put me out to wait a couple of weeks to get the replacement out here. Chers, Del
  8. I have just done a search of the site and came across a post detailing how someone else had done exactly what you have suggested on a Discovery. The only difference being that in their case the problem had been caused by a change of master cylinder. I am taking the weekend off and will get stuck into it again next week and see what I can do. I checked the difference in face to face dimensions today and found that the original measured 87mm and the Allmakes unit 92mm. My plan at the moment is pull the Allmakes servo off completely together with the pedal box before attempting to make any adjustment. Then I will measure the distance from the front face of the old unit to the pushrod and then attempt to adjust the Allmakes unit to be the same. I will let you know how I get on!!! Cheers, Del
  9. Thanks for the reply. I will definitely check on the studs when I get stuck into it again next week. Cheers, Del
  10. I have a 1999 V8 110 Station Wagon (factory built with V8 for export order) which I have owned since 2010. Back in 2013 when I was ordering up various brake spares from the UK I included a servo in the order to have on hand if the need arose. The supplier, MM 4x4, supplied an Allmakes unit, part number LR013488. This week I needed to strip out both pedal boxes to sort out a problem with the clutch pedal, basically lack of lubrication. Having the brake pedal assembly out I decided to swap out the servo to be on the safe side considering the age of the vehicle and I am fairly confident that the unit fitted is the original. On comparing the two units I noticed that the Allmakes unit is noticeably thicker, I would say by about 20-25mm. All the other features, mounting bolts,etc., were identical. I proceeded to fit the unit and found that while it operates the pedal travel has increased significantly ending up about an inch from the floor when really pressed firmly. To my mind it seems as though the extra thickness of the new servo has not been compensated by an increase in the pushrod length resulting in increased pedal travel. Has anyone come across this problem before or I am I missing something really obvious?
  11. Anybody out there with experience of the Britpart lookalike for the Maxtrax sand track? The Maxtrax units are eye wateringly expensive at the best of times but by the time you add approximately 150% to get them shipped and customs cleared to where I live (La Paz, Bolivia) it is hard to swallow. The Britpart units are more reasonably priced but........???? Cheers, Del
  12. The 24-23 Ashcroft shafts and CVs are on the wish list for next year! The ATB, Truetrac and various other necessary bits and pieces have got as far as Frankfurt courtesy of TNT. With a bit of luck I should be in possession of everything by the end of next week and on schedule to have everything installed by the end of the month. Feedback will definitely be forthcoming! Cheers, Del
  13. Many thanks to everyone for their input. After a bit more checking I have decide to follow Red 90's suggestion and I placed an order today with Ashcroft for one of their ATB units for the front and a Truetrac for the rear. I have ordered up the additional parts that will be needed from MM4x4.With shipping and custom's clearance I don't expect to be in a position to start on the installation before the beginning of February. But all in all a good start to the New Year!
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