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Ryan

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    http://www.shirelrc.com

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    Southampton, Hampshire

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  1. Circuit diagram attached for 2001MY. Audio circuit.pdf
  2. I had the same issue, and as has been mentioned, the easiest solution was to drill some holes. I tried to track the leak, and I believe it was coming from the seal at the top of the tailgate, but decided it was too much trouble to remove and replace the seal.
  3. If you need to replace the VCU on your Freelander, go to Bell Engineering. I've just had to replace mine, and their service was great - £245 for a recon VCU, fitted bearings, and delivery; the VCU arrived on the day I wanted it to arrive (albeit at the wrong end of the day); and they arranged to pick up the old VCU free of charge (they'll charge you £75 if you don't send the old one back, but they make the arrangements so you've got no excuse!). They may not be able to send you one straight away, as it seems they recondition to order, but that suited me due to shift work. I have no connection to Bell Engineering, but like to recognise good service when I experience it, and Ken the proprietor was extremely helpful both on the phone and via e-mail.
  4. There was a post yesterday on the Hants and Berks Facebook group that this event has been cancelled by Landmarc. The following link is a copy of what was sent to competitors. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/49128824/Roadmaster%20cancelled..doc
  5. When I lost power, it was the small vacuum hoses at fault - pretty much every end had perished so they kept falling off the various connectors. I tried trimming the ends to get good rubber but they just kept splitting. It was easier to spend a few quid and replace the lot - you'll need about 2 metres, and patience as you won't be able to see some of the connections.
  6. It wasn't exactly responsive, but a friend's FL2 coped with my 110 on a car trailer driving Southampton to Micheldever.
  7. Thanks Ross, the rotated file is now available through the original link.
  8. I have no link to this company - I received the information due to my role at Shire Land Rover Club and thought it may be of interest to others on here. I thought about posting in the "for sale" section but thought it would more visible here - apologies if I shouldn't have done this. We have received the following from Minerva Bath (edited by me): I've hosted the parts list on my public Drop Box folder here - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64182866/Dunsford%20Sale.pdf - unfortunately it was scanned upside down and I cannot permanently rotate it so you may have to print it off if your viewing software cannot rotate (it's about 30 pages long and 15MB). I'll remove the file after the sale.
  9. So, you have two out of five working, is that correct? Looking at the wiring diagram, it appears that pretty much everything works independently (ish) with regards to fuses and relays, though front and rear windows (not the tailgate) share the same earth header so it may be worth checking that first for a good connection. I've attached the diagrams just in case you need them. Edited as I missed a page off the wiring diagram. windows.pdf
  10. I don't think there is a separate relay - looking on the wiring diagram, it's a relay within the CCU.
  11. Most emergency service CAD systems work on a geofile system, whereby every incident has to match to a location within their database to enable the correct resource to be dispatched. When the location falls outside of the database is when the system falls down. I have used two completely different CAD systems and neither allow direct entry of a grid reference - you can input the data into the map providing you have the correct format, but you still need to force a location into the CAD.
  12. Thanks to Rob, I now have a working horn - a replacement coupler did the job.
  13. It's definitely the coupler, but the one I've ordered hasn't arrived yet so Rob, I've pm'd you. I also have a toggle switch as an emergency fix that I don't really fancy using.
  14. Noted, but I think most of my care will be directed towards the controlled explosion bolted to the front of the steering wheel.
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