Lewis

Keep an eye out for used/damaged press brake tooling, circa 1m lengths come up on ebay for reasonable money. You can make fixtures and get a decent bend out of it

Beast!

Green 90

Its a 1987 90 in every way. It was mine once if they are still the same door tops I fitted they are from an ‘83 series 3

Some of this was partly my fault for hacking so much of it... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222896962194 Interestingly it’s lost it’s genuine E registration and become a series 2. It’s also gained 2foot of chassis which I had chopped off

I'm with the Hobbit ^^^^ For less than £150 you'll get a half decent secondhand electric winch from Facebook or eBay. Less than 50quid more will get it fitted and running. Even a new budget winch will be fine and likely cost less than £400 fitted I had a bulk of cheapo champion winches and was punting them at £25each in the end just to shift them. There are plenty of electric winches out there Save your budget for the tractor you need and make do with electric until then

Toyota Land Cruiser 100 £8k will get you a decent one

Okay, so I was bored and trawled through my thread myself and the info wasn’t there, but a quick google found this:

I did both my rears, it wasn’t terribly hard, just a bit of a faff. If you trawl through my 90 thread the info *may* be in there for which ones I used. I think it was around Christmas 2015

I made it up to 22tonnes on the gauge just pressing an A-frame ball joint in the other day. Buy the biggest you can. If buying a massive one look out for one with a winch to adjust the bed height, it’s much easier

I wouldn’t worry about properly inserted helicoils, but you could always use a timesert if you want absolute certainty. They are the daddy of thread repair

I’m a big fan of 3M Clean and strip discs for paint and rust removal, they hardly seem to touch the parent metal Caveat: I have not used them on birmabright

Great, thanks guys! I shan’t worry too much about which side they get bolted too then 👍

I’m planning to refit the OE arch spats having removed them years ago to fit wider ones and now that I come to reuse them for something I can’t remember which was which. I’ve sussed our the fronts but I can’t decide if the rears are handed, and if so how to tell them apart. My tub is quite rough and bruised so it’s of little use as a template. Can any knowledgeable members help out with some info? Much appreciated, Lewis

I don't remember exactly what it was which I didn't really like about the shielder chassis, but I walked away from their stand thinking that when I buy that it will be marshland

Avatars were available without being a supporting member - I've had an image since I joined in 2007. Whilst I have no problem contributing (and have done regularly over the years, and will do again shortly) the removal of avatar privileges seems a bit Photobucket-like to do retrospectively

Have you asked Devon 4x4 for their advice? There may be a solution they can offer

It's a good shout to clock the xbrake back plate, we had to do this ten years ago to clear a crossmember Some pics here

I have one fitted on my 90, it's great! A breeze to fit and does the job perfectly I'm one of the hundreds of happy customers

This ^^^ I have two EP9's running 11mm Plasma (or bowrope depending on which is clean). Perfect winch for a Land Rover, cheap, reliable, easy to get bits, easy to modify & easy to maintain

You should look at turbocharging your 1HZ engined land cruisers. Safari do a nice kit with turbo, intercooler, air intake, exhaust and updated clutch. You'll find it transforms the otherwise underwhelming performance. We have a number of turbo converted 1HZ engined land cruisers operating at altitude at 5000kg GVW and find that the performance is adequate

As Ross said, I work overseas sometimes, and I'm away presently

I followed the above guide, and replaced the ball joint a couple of times using a long M12 bolt and a selection of sockets. It's fairly easy really For better results I would just replace the arm and drag link with the 300tdi disco type, a far better solution long term

Looks good! 100mm is plenty - that would be enough for a domestic driveway

I don't have experience of the defender specific Alcon kit, but have lots of experience of Alcon kits on armoured vehicles. The bells, rotors and calipers are generally of excellent quality and provide good service. We have encountered problems with the copper rivets used to secure the friction material to the backing plates wearing the surface of the rotor. Apparently this is due to insufficient heat generated by normal road use braking not melting/weakening the rivets, in full race use the pads get hot enough that the copper rivets break down with the friction material rather than wearing the rotor face. For this reason I would look carefully at whether your use is correct for the pad type if the defender kit uses copper rivets. Also be aware that the pads and rotors are pricey Personally I would suggest you try a standard replacement aftermarket pad first to see if that provides the stopping power you need. We have had many years of success using EBC pads in many hundreds of vehicles, I'm certain EBC will do a pad to suit Defender. I'd try Yellow or Green compound pads