Lewis

How come you've been so long without the car, and why are you without it in the first place? I wish I had decent spec'd defenders scattered about the country

None of the suspension bushes on a defender are alike, you should be able to tell which ones you've got just by looking at them. The ones you want are the ones that look like they'll fit

Sound like it could be a 300tdi era crossmember. Mate the side flanges longer and mount forward of the crossmember itself?

Personally I like my axles to go up and down, and I feel that dislocated springs still offer some advantage to stability and forward traction. To answer the op's question, I have standard height oem springs and 15" travel procomp dampers. I get good up-travel - I had to tub the rear wheel boxes to get extra clearance. Front in action Longer clip but has some views of the rear suspension (skip to 20seconds) As you already have 11" dampers I would go for the Gwyn Lewis challenge kit, it's well priced, well designed and well made. It gives a good balance of up-travel and droop, I've had it on a previous 90 and was very pleased with its performance. Here's the Gwyn Lewis challenge kit on their eBay shop, all you would need extra is some longer brake hoses and some cranked trailing arms. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172242371307 They even do a budget version to weld together yourself to save a few quid. If you do buy from Gwyn it's worth giving them a call as their prices are better over the phone than thru eBay

Any use?

Answers to your questions in order below Not sure, I don't think I can hear mine at tickover No, it won't really do anything without load. Boost gauges can be had for about a fiver on eBay and are worth having to set it up, once it set they serve little purpose so ca be removed again. Again, EGT guages can be done fairly cheaply - I used a k-type thermocouple and a hand held thermocouple reader. The cost will be much higher if you go for an actual guage to fit in the dash. Again, once you've set the boost/fuel up then you'll no longer need an egt guage. Fit the thermocouple in the manifold in front of the turbo, personally I wouldn't get too precious about exactly where - just get it somewhere you can fit it easily. Others will tell you that a certain location is best or gives a truer reading, and they may be right if you are race tuning etc, but to my mind we only need an indication of the temp, not to the degree. Can't help with specifics - my temp guage is the TD5 type and my sender is a ROW spec 300tdi version. But your logic is sound Hope that's some help

Surely the panhard and drag link will be flat anyway, unless as Snagger says you have a ridiculous suspension lift Mine are very slightly under flat

Just for some perspective, what you are classing as a minor road trip is nearly two years mileage at my current rate in my 200tdi powered 90

I don't know anything at all about bikes, literally nothing, my only interest in them is as an engineering marvel - but this one ticks a lot of boxes! What a beautiful machine One of the directors/senior management at work is into old European bikes (19 of them and counting) and occasionally in nice weather he comes to work on an old shaft drive inline four Laverda. I always enjoy a good look at it

Mines on top of the timing case, bolted to the aircon pump mounts

Can do. PM me if you want to sort it out

Is it a kinugawa turbo? I used a couple of their cartridges over the years and they seem fine. I also put one of their 360degree bearing rebuild kits into a T28, which even though everyone says you can't rebuild turbo spindles without rebalancing them did another 15000miles before I sold it

I made a timing tool for my 200tdi exactly the same way after I broke the proper one

20w50, if not 15w40 I wouldn't go thinner

Check the slave cylinder for leaks The stumpy R380 boxes are incredibly rare, so unless you have one to exchange, or want to move your engine forward to accommodate a standard length R380 then I'd stick to the LT77

I had my KM2's from tyreleader https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/bfgoodrich/all-terrain-t-a-ko2/265-75-r16-119-116r-411818 126quid delivered seems cheap, but only if you can get them fitted for free

I'm running 35" tyres on standard height springs. I prefer to run without lift, I can't see the need

I have no direct experience but just applying logic to the responses on this thread - if 1:1.4 transfer box equals lower lock up speed then 1:1 transfer box will give a higher lock up speed. Surely?

Removing them will do absolutely nothing for the tramlining. They are completely inert and have no effect at all on the steering or suspension unless the axles are articulating - even then the only effect they have is to help relocate the spring back onto its seat. If you want to solve the handling issues is look at the tyres and suspension lift first, but equally it could be any number of worn out, under lubricated, damaged or just badly adjusted OE steering or suspension components Where are you located? Perhaps a local experienced forum member may be able to help you

As western says, the length of cable in those britpart 120amp alternator kits it to go from the battery +ve at the alternator to the battery +ve connection at the starter motor. The OE wiring from the starter to the battery will already be of sufficient capacity to handle the increased output from the alternator

Move the pipe, cut the bracket off and heat wrap the pipe

I have four of those at work, very nice price of kit. Evolution rather than revolution but they are building on an already excellent product

Seems legit . . . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162082952792

You just reach over and use your left hand surely?

It's probably too late to put it right at this stage, I reckon you'll just have to live with it being wrong-hand drive soren