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About hxk494

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    Edinburgh, Scotland

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  1. hxk494

    What Tyres

    ATS Euromaster are currently doing £50 off 4 BFG and then a further 10% off what's left. I'm getting mine fitted on Thursday:-)
  2. I recently had one supplied (but fitted locally) from these guys who came recommended. Well packaged, think I went with them as not many of the other suppliers would cover for damage during shipping. No complaints with it. New seal from them too which in my opinion was poorly finished at the join, they supplied a new one, no questions asked. https://vehicleglazingspecialists.com/
  3. that looks right. I shouldn't need them as I'm jsut planning to remove manifolds and ease back to allow head to come off, not undo any turbo feed/drain. Any thougths on gasket to t/stat housing - sealant or dry?
  4. Hi, I'm going to be doing a head gasket soon and have just received it and and top end gasket kit, both Elring make. I'm a little confused about some of the washers supplied with the kit though - I can identify the following; valve stem seals (8), injector seal washers (4), rocker cover washers (3) copper washers for temp sender and heater output (2 req though 3 smaller and 1 larger are present) (I think), rocker cover gasket and manifold gasket (obviously), gasket for thermostat housing to head. I'm guessing the O-ring and maybe the steel washer are to go with the oil seperator thing that attatches to head? I'm however a bit stumped with the 8 round "ring" type copper seals that appear too big for anywhere (bottom right in picture), though initially spill rail to injectors but too large diam for that? Also the paper gasket that's oval shaped with three holes in it? Last question, where the t/stat housing attaches to block with gasktet - should I be using some sort of sealing compound on this gasket or fitting it dry? Want to get it right first time as can't redo when head is fitted without stripping more parts off front of engine. All help gratefully received. Cheers, Martin.
  5. don't think it's a crack - more like the shape of the casting but will examine in more detail in the daylight tomorrow and report back.
  6. Hi, really puzzled by this. Have come across similar in some searches but but no definitive cause. Oil appearing under a couple of head bolts on manifold side of engine, initially thought from rocker gasket but it was replaced and everything cleaned off and it's back again and definitely coming from these bolts, one at front, other near rear. Engine is at 92k. I've also got white/blueish smoke on cold startup if it's sat overnight but that's another post I think, otherwise drives & runs great. Any ideas or advice? ? Cheers, Martin
  7. I'll buy the parts which fit under the tub and connect to crossmember - especially interested in the nearside one! Let me know if you do decide to sell please. Thanks, Martin
  8. thanks for all the suggestions. I'll not have time to do anything else until the weekend but will report back after that, hopefully with pistons out. There are a few more photos I took during the strip down so far here: http://s1235.photobucket.com/user/martinduncan/library/Series petrol engine There is evidence of moisture around the valves/head of cylinders 3 & 4. Would a piston at DTC be level with the top of the block or sit slightly below it as shown with 2 & 3? I've not cleaned the piston tops up but there does appear to be some markings on them - you can just about see it in one picture U-030 (?). Would this indicate a previous re-bore to 30thou? Reading my haynes manual suggests 40thou is the max oversize permsissible? Cheers, Martin.
  9. two aren't tdc, so the other two won't be quite bdc. I've tried a bit of gentle knocking with a hammer and wooden block and nothing budged, will give it another shot and then I guess it's sump and crank off. I realise we're in re-bore territory but there never seems to be anything completed or even near complete and running in this neck of the woods. Hopefully a bit of further investigation will yield whether even a rebore/rebuild is going to be a goer. Cheers, M.
  10. Is this enough to completely sieze it? Other bores look OK
  11. I picked up a complete 2286 petrol engine with a view to changing my s3 back to original engine type, currently 2.5nad as original block was cracked and 12j was available at the time. However it appears to be seized solid. Plugs looked OK, so I put release oil in bores for a week or so, still nothing. Took head off yesterday and there is a bit of rust in no 4 but not loads. No sign of water in oil so I'm assuming bottom end is OK, could it just be rings stuck in bore holding it? If I strip out crank should I knock pistons down or up to get them out of block, I'm thinking down? Photos to follow once I manage to reduce file size. Cheers, Martin
  12. here's a couple of shots of mine, though looking at your engine bay photo I'm guessing that the lower metal turbo-intercooler pipe is there, just hidden under the upper plastic intercooler-manifold pipe (blue)
  13. or maybe an early 300tdi and it never had one fitted - like mine! The first pic of the defender engine - where the red circle is I think is where the metal turbo-intercooler pipe runs on mine. I can get a pic for you later for confirmation if you like?
  14. front and rear are same diameter on a 90, larger rears on 110 only
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