hxk494

When I had a GKN on my 90 I got a replacement sensor (early smaller diameter type with wires rather than the type that has a connector plug directly on the back of it) from RS Components, wired it up and it worked perfectly. I'll have the details of the RS part number somewhere. I've also got a second hand later type sensor squireled away somewhere which I bough in error second hand and have never done anything about moving on yet, I can take a look for it if you like?

thanks @western, will order BX110111L but I'm not convinced that's going to work with the unthreaded section of the bolt being the length it is but will give it a try.

though maybe the longer shouldered bolt will work? this is sold as stub axle kit (DA3100) for 110 Sailsbury disc brakes from LA930456 and it has two shorter bolts, 2 nuts and 4 longer bolts. https://www.steveparkers.com/product/da3199-stub-axle-kit-defender-110-rear/

though now having looked at BX110111L - https://www.lrseries.com/BX110111L-BOLT-M10-X-55-HEX-HEAD-NEW-REPLACEMENT I really don't see how that will work as the non threaded shoulder will meet the threaded caliper bracket after passing through the stub axle before it's tightened Really confused now!

Hi folks, I'm doing some work to my 110 brakes and need to replace the caliper brakcet - ftc3306 - I've fitted the new one using the existing bolts and I'm pretty sure these are wrong and should be longer as they don't come all the way through the threaded part of the bracket. It looks like they should be closer to 45mm in length rather than the 35mm that was in. Looking again at the parts fiche it appears that on the 110 the stub axle/calper bracket should be attached (per side) with 4 of M10 x 55 bolt (BX110111L) and 2 of M10 x 35 (BX110071M) and 2 of NY110047L M10 Nylock. This would thefore be 2 shorter bolts and nuts and the 4 longer ones going into (through) the caliper bracket but without nuts. Would anybody be able to confirm if this is correct? Serial is VA if that makes any difference I've attached a few photos which show the 35mm failing to fill the 4 threaded holes in the caliper bracket (but this is how it was attached previously). Thanks, Martin.

Thanks Steve, already had non galvanised guards bought. Once I had caliper out of the way it became reasonably obvious - 3 m6 bolts as you say, one through shock lower mount into captive nut on guard and the other two through guard into caliper bracket. Have only got one side finished as I just can't shift remains of one my bolt on the other side yet. I was getting confused by later models which appear to have another small bracket which picks up the caliper mounts and attaches to guard in some way but sure mine doesn't require it. Thanks again, Martin

Morning folks, I'm replacing rear discs and pads on my 300tdi 110 and would like to add the missing dust shields to prevent the increased wear rate of the inner pad. I have the parts diagrams and workshop manuals so know what parts are required but haven't been able to find any photos showing the mounting bracket/fitment etc. It may become obvious when the parts are held in place but if anyone has these fitted and could take a picture or two from the rear side that would probably save quite a bit of head scratching on my part. Cheers, Martin.

Hi all. I've got a 1996 Tdi 110, have had it on the road for about two years now and in all that time no problems with the factory fitted alarm/immobiliser (green box behind dash and metal box attached to front of battery box) - until 2 days ago when the alarm started sounding in the evening for no apparent reason (wasn't set when this happened), only silenced by disconnecting battery, it didn't respond to fob. Reconnected battery the next day (after charging it for good luck) and all seemed OK, until evening again when alarm started sounding, again disconnected battery and that silenced it. All seemed to be working as usual until the later triggering on the second day.Any thoughts on where to start looking for a fix for this, or is removal/bypass a better plan? I've read plenty about the "spider" but get the impression this is the immobiliser not the alarm? Also, where is the sounder, can't see anything under the bonnet but may be tucked up tight behind nearside wing - really need to trigger it and listen to find out - would unplugging sounder be a short term fix or just bring more problems - apart from obvious difficulty of finding/accessing it? Thanks,Martin.

here you go....

@Retroanaconda from your earlier photos it looks like you've got 6 main light fittings in your garage, is this correct? I'm moving house shortly and it has a 5.5m x 7.5m double garage which currently has the original strip lights from the 1960's installed so a swap to LED would be the obvious solution, just not sure how many I would need. Is there a calculator you used to figure out lumens required as obviously Screwfix sell different lengths/doubles etc etc. Cheers, Martin.

@300tditaffyIf you're still looking for cappings, I have a full galvanised set which never made it onto my 90 before I replaced it with a 110. They are genuine LR not aftermarket and the later single piece type. Very nice condition, can get photos later, don't have any on this computer. I'm in Edinburgh but could package and post if required. Martin.

ATS Euromaster are currently doing £50 off 4 BFG and then a further 10% off what's left. I'm getting mine fitted on Thursday:-)

I recently had one supplied (but fitted locally) from these guys who came recommended. Well packaged, think I went with them as not many of the other suppliers would cover for damage during shipping. No complaints with it. New seal from them too which in my opinion was poorly finished at the join, they supplied a new one, no questions asked. https://vehicleglazingspecialists.com/

that looks right. I shouldn't need them as I'm jsut planning to remove manifolds and ease back to allow head to come off, not undo any turbo feed/drain. Any thougths on gasket to t/stat housing - sealant or dry?

Hi, I'm going to be doing a head gasket soon and have just received it and and top end gasket kit, both Elring make. I'm a little confused about some of the washers supplied with the kit though - I can identify the following; valve stem seals (8), injector seal washers (4), rocker cover washers (3) copper washers for temp sender and heater output (2 req though 3 smaller and 1 larger are present) (I think), rocker cover gasket and manifold gasket (obviously), gasket for thermostat housing to head. I'm guessing the O-ring and maybe the steel washer are to go with the oil seperator thing that attatches to head? I'm however a bit stumped with the 8 round "ring" type copper seals that appear too big for anywhere (bottom right in picture), though initially spill rail to injectors but too large diam for that? Also the paper gasket that's oval shaped with three holes in it? Last question, where the t/stat housing attaches to block with gasktet - should I be using some sort of sealing compound on this gasket or fitting it dry? Want to get it right first time as can't redo when head is fitted without stripping more parts off front of engine. All help gratefully received. Cheers, Martin.