hxk494

When I had a GKN on my 90 I got a replacement sensor (early smaller diameter type with wires rather than the type that has a connector plug directly on the back of it) from RS Components, wired it up and it worked perfectly. I'll have the details of the RS part number somewhere. I've also got a second hand later type sensor squireled away somewhere which I bough in error second hand and have never done anything about moving on yet, I can take a look for it if you like?

thanks @western, will order BX110111L but I'm not convinced that's going to work with the unthreaded section of the bolt being the length it is but will give it a try.

though maybe the longer shouldered bolt will work? this is sold as stub axle kit (DA3100) for 110 Sailsbury disc brakes from LA930456 and it has two shorter bolts, 2 nuts and 4 longer bolts. https://www.steveparkers.com/product/da3199-stub-axle-kit-defender-110-rear/

though now having looked at BX110111L - https://www.lrseries.com/BX110111L-BOLT-M10-X-55-HEX-HEAD-NEW-REPLACEMENT I really don't see how that will work as the non threaded shoulder will meet the threaded caliper bracket after passing through the stub axle before it's tightened Really confused now!

Hi folks, I'm doing some work to my 110 brakes and need to replace the caliper brakcet - ftc3306 - I've fitted the new one using the existing bolts and I'm pretty sure these are wrong and should be longer as they don't come all the way through the threaded part of the bracket. It looks like they should be closer to 45mm in length rather than the 35mm that was in. Looking again at the parts fiche it appears that on the 110 the stub axle/calper bracket should be attached (per side) with 4 of M10 x 55 bolt (BX110111L) and 2 of M10 x 35 (BX110071M) and 2 of NY110047L M10 Nylock. This would thefore be 2 shorter bolts and nuts and the 4 longer ones going into (through) the caliper bracket but without nuts. Would anybody be able to confirm if this is correct? Serial is VA if that makes any difference I've attached a few photos which show the 35mm failing to fill the 4 threaded holes in the caliper bracket (but this is how it was attached previously). Thanks, Martin.

Thanks Steve, already had non galvanised guards bought. Once I had caliper out of the way it became reasonably obvious - 3 m6 bolts as you say, one through shock lower mount into captive nut on guard and the other two through guard into caliper bracket. Have only got one side finished as I just can't shift remains of one my bolt on the other side yet. I was getting confused by later models which appear to have another small bracket which picks up the caliper mounts and attaches to guard in some way but sure mine doesn't require it. Thanks again, Martin

Morning folks, I'm replacing rear discs and pads on my 300tdi 110 and would like to add the missing dust shields to prevent the increased wear rate of the inner pad. I have the parts diagrams and workshop manuals so know what parts are required but haven't been able to find any photos showing the mounting bracket/fitment etc. It may become obvious when the parts are held in place but if anyone has these fitted and could take a picture or two from the rear side that would probably save quite a bit of head scratching on my part. Cheers, Martin.

Hi all. I've got a 1996 Tdi 110, have had it on the road for about two years now and in all that time no problems with the factory fitted alarm/immobiliser (green box behind dash and metal box attached to front of battery box) - until 2 days ago when the alarm started sounding in the evening for no apparent reason (wasn't set when this happened), only silenced by disconnecting battery, it didn't respond to fob. Reconnected battery the next day (after charging it for good luck) and all seemed OK, until evening again when alarm started sounding, again disconnected battery and that silenced it. All seemed to be working as usual until the later triggering on the second day.Any thoughts on where to start looking for a fix for this, or is removal/bypass a better plan? I've read plenty about the "spider" but get the impression this is the immobiliser not the alarm? Also, where is the sounder, can't see anything under the bonnet but may be tucked up tight behind nearside wing - really need to trigger it and listen to find out - would unplugging sounder be a short term fix or just bring more problems - apart from obvious difficulty of finding/accessing it? Thanks,Martin.

here you go....

@Retroanaconda from your earlier photos it looks like you've got 6 main light fittings in your garage, is this correct? I'm moving house shortly and it has a 5.5m x 7.5m double garage which currently has the original strip lights from the 1960's installed so a swap to LED would be the obvious solution, just not sure how many I would need. Is there a calculator you used to figure out lumens required as obviously Screwfix sell different lengths/doubles etc etc. Cheers, Martin.

@300tditaffyIf you're still looking for cappings, I have a full galvanised set which never made it onto my 90 before I replaced it with a 110. They are genuine LR not aftermarket and the later single piece type. Very nice condition, can get photos later, don't have any on this computer. I'm in Edinburgh but could package and post if required. Martin.

ATS Euromaster are currently doing £50 off 4 BFG and then a further 10% off what's left. I'm getting mine fitted on Thursday:-)

I recently had one supplied (but fitted locally) from these guys who came recommended. Well packaged, think I went with them as not many of the other suppliers would cover for damage during shipping. No complaints with it. New seal from them too which in my opinion was poorly finished at the join, they supplied a new one, no questions asked. https://vehicleglazingspecialists.com/

that looks right. I shouldn't need them as I'm jsut planning to remove manifolds and ease back to allow head to come off, not undo any turbo feed/drain. Any thougths on gasket to t/stat housing - sealant or dry?

Hi, I'm going to be doing a head gasket soon and have just received it and and top end gasket kit, both Elring make. I'm a little confused about some of the washers supplied with the kit though - I can identify the following; valve stem seals (8), injector seal washers (4), rocker cover washers (3) copper washers for temp sender and heater output (2 req though 3 smaller and 1 larger are present) (I think), rocker cover gasket and manifold gasket (obviously), gasket for thermostat housing to head. I'm guessing the O-ring and maybe the steel washer are to go with the oil seperator thing that attatches to head? I'm however a bit stumped with the 8 round "ring" type copper seals that appear too big for anywhere (bottom right in picture), though initially spill rail to injectors but too large diam for that? Also the paper gasket that's oval shaped with three holes in it? Last question, where the t/stat housing attaches to block with gasktet - should I be using some sort of sealing compound on this gasket or fitting it dry? Want to get it right first time as can't redo when head is fitted without stripping more parts off front of engine. All help gratefully received. Cheers, Martin.

don't think it's a crack - more like the shape of the casting but will examine in more detail in the daylight tomorrow and report back.

Hi, really puzzled by this. Have come across similar in some searches but but no definitive cause. Oil appearing under a couple of head bolts on manifold side of engine, initially thought from rocker gasket but it was replaced and everything cleaned off and it's back again and definitely coming from these bolts, one at front, other near rear. Engine is at 92k. I've also got white/blueish smoke on cold startup if it's sat overnight but that's another post I think, otherwise drives & runs great. Any ideas or advice? ? Cheers, Martin

I'll buy the parts which fit under the tub and connect to crossmember - especially interested in the nearside one! Let me know if you do decide to sell please. Thanks, Martin

thanks for all the suggestions. I'll not have time to do anything else until the weekend but will report back after that, hopefully with pistons out. There are a few more photos I took during the strip down so far here: http://s1235.photobucket.com/user/martinduncan/library/Series petrol engine There is evidence of moisture around the valves/head of cylinders 3 & 4. Would a piston at DTC be level with the top of the block or sit slightly below it as shown with 2 & 3? I've not cleaned the piston tops up but there does appear to be some markings on them - you can just about see it in one picture U-030 (?). Would this indicate a previous re-bore to 30thou? Reading my haynes manual suggests 40thou is the max oversize permsissible? Cheers, Martin.

two aren't tdc, so the other two won't be quite bdc. I've tried a bit of gentle knocking with a hammer and wooden block and nothing budged, will give it another shot and then I guess it's sump and crank off. I realise we're in re-bore territory but there never seems to be anything completed or even near complete and running in this neck of the woods. Hopefully a bit of further investigation will yield whether even a rebore/rebuild is going to be a goer. Cheers, M.

Is this enough to completely sieze it? Other bores look OK

Photo

I picked up a complete 2286 petrol engine with a view to changing my s3 back to original engine type, currently 2.5nad as original block was cracked and 12j was available at the time. However it appears to be seized solid. Plugs looked OK, so I put release oil in bores for a week or so, still nothing. Took head off yesterday and there is a bit of rust in no 4 but not loads. No sign of water in oil so I'm assuming bottom end is OK, could it just be rings stuck in bore holding it? If I strip out crank should I knock pistons down or up to get them out of block, I'm thinking down? Photos to follow once I manage to reduce file size. Cheers, Martin

here's a couple of shots of mine, though looking at your engine bay photo I'm guessing that the lower metal turbo-intercooler pipe is there, just hidden under the upper plastic intercooler-manifold pipe (blue)

or maybe an early 300tdi and it never had one fitted - like mine! The first pic of the defender engine - where the red circle is I think is where the metal turbo-intercooler pipe runs on mine. I can get a pic for you later for confirmation if you like?