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Budgie

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Everything posted by Budgie

  1. I think it's the gold thing on the bulkhead (in the engine bay) behind the washer bottle on the 300's.
  2. Here's the link to the other thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7877 I replaced the cat downpipe with a non-cat version and, apart from being loads cheaper, there wasn't much of a difference TBH. It's been on there about 3 years now and the flexy part is showing signs of holes already, gonna try the Defender version next and hope it lasts a bit longer.
  3. Well, as they say............... "It doen't matter who wins the General Election, the Government always get in" !!
  4. I think this one could do with a little support as well: http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/juggle/
  5. I live on an island where the cheapest petrol & diesel is around 10p per litre more than on the mainland. I live 10 miles from the nearest shop, pub and work. There is a regular bus service into Stornoway but this takes an hour to get there (20 minutes by car) and I could make 3-4 round trips in the Disco for the same price as one round trip on the bus. So what is there to make me use public transport more and reduce my use of the roads? Well there is the weather - 72mph gusts up here yesterday which closed the causeway to the main part of the island so I couldn't drive to the shops anyway.......but neither could the buses!! Petition signed, along with the other 7561 people (when I signed).
  6. If a higher rate of tax is introduced then I don't think it'll be long before we start seeing the car makers announcing massive lay-offs because the cars they produce aren't being sold so they don't need the work force. I'm not just talking about those at the plants themselves cos it will have a fallout effecting manufacturing across the country and you could be looking at thousands of lay-offs. It could also affect international trade agreements with the likes of the U.S and Japan and the imports market in vehicles would also take a slump. Do you think Gordon Brown want's to take over as PM after reducing imports, increasing unemployment, raising interest rates due to a reduction in national production etc etc? Living up here, if they introduce a pay-per-mile then I'll fly if I need to go to the mainland cos it'll be soooo much cheaper!!
  7. I've just had a look in my parts manual and there is only one type of stub axle for the 300 TDi which is part No FTC3154 (they are £32.50 + vat from Paddock Spares) and come with the seal and bearing already fitted. The step only feels like a couple of thou' at most (or maybe mine are just old! ) but the one that commonly has problems is where the hub seal sits, this can often score, causing the seal to leak. When you put the wheel bearings back in (either new ones or the ones you have now) make sure you push new grease into the bearings and give the outside a good covering. I also like to wipe the stub axle and hub seal with grease before I put it all together. If it's a new set of bearings then re-check them after about 500 miles as they will loosen as they bed-in. Have you checked the swivel pre-load, best done with the swivel seal removed, to make sure the play isn't coming from there. This can give a nasty shudder to the steering wheel when you hit a hole in the role. All you need to do is remove the shims under the top pin until the swivel pulls round at the poundage. If there are no shims under the top pin then a new set of swivel bearings will be needed (with some shims!). I can't remember the correct pounds needed but you can use a normal fishing spring balance to check the pre-load.
  8. There are two raised sections on the stub axle where the bearings sit and lower section between them, this is normal. If you have scoring on the bearing sufaces then it's best to replace the stub axle, remember to check if the new one comes with the roller bearing fitted in the rear of the stub axle or not.
  9. No, not on a 1995 Disco as there is no MOT requirement for a cat to be fitted to that age of diesel. It won't be helping and at 11 years old (assuming it's the original) then it may not be doing much with reducing the emmisions either!! IIRC the replacement one I had fitted cost something like £45 and you're looking for a pre-95 300 TDi downpipe.
  10. Or, if you really want to keep the Cat then Steve Parker makes a replacement flexy that you can weld in. But I just put the non cat on mine and there's no problems.
  11. Mine's in where the jack normally sits. I've got a non-ABS Disco with a Safari Snorkel fitted and this removes the need for the front intake on the airbox as it's blocked off when you fit the snorkel.
  12. Hi Ryan, You don't have to fit cranked trailing arms with a 2" lift, but they increase the drop on the rear axle and ease the strain on the chassis bushes. A cheaper alternative is a "kicker plate" that MM 4x4 sell. You're more likely to need cranked front radius arms to regain stable steering and stop the thing from wondering all over the road. But it's best to do the lift first and then drive it to see what it's like as not all need this. The best lift kits seem to be OME, but they cost a wee bit more. The rest are about the same quality using Bearmach springs and either Pro-comp or De Carbon shocks. You may find that after you fit the lift then some of the suspension bushes will show signs of ware, this is because they have been settled in one position for ages and now you've move the angles, so you may need to keep an eye on them. If you go for a kit then make sure it comes with the front shocker turret securing rings as the studs on the old ones always break!! Extended brake flexy pipes may also be required if you are likely to be doing some off-roading that involves getting the suspension to it's full articulation, just to be on te safe side - you don't want to snap a line in the middle of the Plain!! All you really need to do the job is spanners, jack, axle stands, socket set WD40 (soak the old shocker nuts for about a week before you do the job) and a pair of spring clamps. As for the lights, I've got a pair of spots on an A-bar on the front, another pair on the roofrack but also a pair of floods on the roof as well. The floods allow me to have them on without blinding the vehicle in front and I got them from a truck place down St John's Road in Hedge End, about halfway down opposite the playing field.
  13. Lix Toll Garage in Killin, Perthshire, have one of the original Cuthbertson Series IIa's (not for sale though I don't think). It's on the front page of their website.
  14. I don't think they have one at Hayling or Selsey do they?
  15. One in Scotland would be nice as well, then I don't have to drive hundreds of miles just to get to the nearest one!
  16. Sounds more like your second guess, goosed alternator. The rev counter wire only feed the rev counter so if the warning light is on as well then I would get the alternator tested. Sorry for the bad news, but welcome to forum!
  17. It's white with black trace on my 300 series. Well that's what I put the new connection onto and the rev counter worked afterwards anyway.
  18. If you don't fit a breater to the timing cover and go wading then it will do the same as the axles. If the front of the engine gets submurged it'll suck the nice cold muddy water passed the crank pully seal or passed the timing cover gasket. I used a brake bleed screw. Drilled & tapped the cover plate, screwed the bleed screw into the cover, cut it off flush at the back so it didn't hit the injector pump drive gear and put the plate back on the timing cover. Then I got some tubing with a smaller I/D than the bleed screw, warmed up the tubing so I could push it over the end of the screw so it formed a tight seal once the tubing has cooled. I already had the bleed screw & the tubing in the garage so it didn't cost anything to do it.
  19. No been to Ontario yet, Alberta & Eastern B/C we did a few years ago. Fabulous place, just need to find the time to go again. Good luck with the move and enjoy yourself!
  20. Lucky git I've always want to move there. Where abouts you going too?
  21. It only actually changed hands for one year Si. The team that runs LRE now used to run LRO when Billing first started. They sold the mag to the company that now owns LROi and they decided to run the show that year. It wasn't good IIRC, so the team started LRE, got the show back with them and have run it as the LRE Billing Show until now. So, what ever anyone says about LRE, it's been that same team running the show for 15 out of it's 16 years and if you all think they've done such a bad job of it, why do you all go every year?
  22. I think the auto will tend to sap a wee bit more power than the manual box anyway, especially with a diesel in front of it. You don't notice much difference with the V8s. Andy, I ended up putting a TD5 Defender 1.410:1 transfer box in my Disco when I put the 33" tyres on as it was crawling up hills on the standard box and I couldn't get out of 3rd gear doing 30mph. So you may notice a difference when you change. If you're happy doing the work yorself then another option is to put 4.11:1 ratio ring & pinion in both diffs. This will bring the overall gearing back to about normal and has the advantage of catering for both High & Low range, where as the T-box will only effect the High range gearing.
  23. There's Armacap that First Four Off Road sell. I've seen others like this but can't find them now.
  24. If it only does short runs each day then try taking it for a good long run, keep at a steady 60 and run it for an hour or so. This should give it a bit of a clear out. You never know!!
  25. Doing the tappets will help if they haven't been done in a while. When was the inside of intercooler last cleaned? If all that Marmite is in the inlet manifold then it stands to reason it'll be clogging the intercooler as well. Also nice clean air & fuel filters may help. Are you still running standard size tyres? As any increase to the rolling dia' of the tyres will effect the overall gearing of the vehicle.
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