Budgie

Well, there's these ones from Paidia 4x4 which may do the trick. If your looking for a more standard looking set then try Innovation 4x4, although I think the Paidia ones would look better on yours.

[smugmode]I got mine at Billing about 4 years ago, in the Genuine LR box, for £10!! [/smugmode] I did have to spray it though.

If you find they do rub on the inner arches then a set of +2" extended bumpstops normally sorts the problem, or just space out the bumpstops you have on there to stop the axle going up so far.

Devon 4x4 sell the Oz Rangie Spares arches which are easy enough to fit on a 3 door but the 5 door is a bit more involved cos' of the rear doors and the fact that you have to cut into the frame of the door. Devon 4x4 also have an article on fitting them on their website: http://www.devon4x4.com/library/?articleid=8 You sometimes get them on Ebay as well. With a +2" lift and these arches then you should be able to fit upto a 33" tyre, although this may will effect the overall gearing of the Rangie and make it struggle up hills in high range.

I must admit, I've bought things from both Canada and the US using my credit card and never had a problem. I ordered a GPS online from GPS City in Las Vegus and I've had cheaper things from Canada. The last thing was a Baseball cap that arrive from Toronto just this week, although I paid through PayPal for that. When we were in Alberta on holiday we even found we could use our Maestro debit cards in Canadian cash machines!

I've been with Eclipse since I could get BB and I've only had one outage, which was thier servers going down for 24 hours. There were regular updates on their website (I still have a dialup connection for emergencies! )about the fault and every customer who was affected recieved an email from their Tech section when it was fixed saying what had happend, what they did to fix it and sorry for the inconvenience(sp). One other time we had a problem at our local exchange, not knowing this, I spoke to the Eclipse'sTech people who went through some checks with me, they thought it was a line problem so THEY reported it to BT for me and then they phoned me back 3 days later to make sure the problem was fixed and that I was happy. Can't better customer service than that in my eyes and the helpline is an 0845 number, not your normal £1 per minute jobby! Their 8Mb BB starts at £9.99 per month and you can go on a monthly contract rather than annual if you want, although it's a little more expensive.

TNT is the one to stay away from up here. When I ordered a BRB Winch Bumper for David Bowyer it was sent on 2 day delivery. After 3 days, with nothing turning up, I phoned David who spoke to TNT only to be informed that for the Scottish Islands they hold any items in their depot in Perth until there is enough to warrent sending a van up and then they send them??? Doesn't seem to matter what service you pay for thats the way of it. In the end it took 6 days & a few phone calls to make it up here, not used TNT since.

This is pure guesswork here but.......... looking at the motor in the photo and going from left to right try: F1 - turns the motor to winch in F2 - turns the motor to winch out A - Armature - supplies power from the solenoids to the motor. On the T-Max, Red is A, Yellow is F1 and (looks like) Blue is F2. If F1 & F2 are the wrong way round when you use the remote then just swap them over.

All explained: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm Read the whole article and take note of the warning!! Like I said above, do it in stages and make a note of what you've done so you can put it back again! I would start with the diaphram, turn through 90 degrees, and see how it drives. That maybe all you need. If you start messing with the smoke screw & star wheel then keep an eye out for black smoke from the exhaust. That's un-burnt (wasted) fuel so what ever you did needs to backing off a wee bit. If you're not 100% with doing it yourself then you're better off taking it to a diesel specialist and letting them do it for you.

Has the one in Largs closed down then? Been a while since I was down there though so it may have been gone a while. If you don't get any luck in Greenock, try the one in Ardrossan. They used to be quite good for that sort of thing.

You'll have to tweek the fueling on the injector pump if you fit a larger intercooler otherwise there isn't much point in fitting it, you'll be running lean. If the engine is sound then you shouldn't have any problems. Mine is now on 170k and running sweet with a larger intercooler and pump tweeks, it had 120k on the clock when the intercooler was fitted. You may find that cleaning the inside of the OE intercooler and turning the diaphram on top of the injector pump through 90 degrees will be all you need. If your only looking for a little extra then it's worth a try + it won't put any extra stress on the motor and you can save your money for other toys.

I don't think they are road legal. If you look at them, you can choose what is on the bottom of the stick-on plates. But if you click on the Road Legal ones then there is no choice as the post code or company name who produced the plate has to go on there by law. The plate has to meet BS AU 145d and last time I got a road legal plate made I had to proove I was the registered owner (produce the V5) before they would make the plate. Just found this in their Terms & Conditions:

Not sure about the Defender one but I fitted the early 300 TDi non-cat downpipe which is ESR2740 (according to my parts manual). It still has the flexy part in it but it's only £30-£40!!

Na, just left mine alone.... been fine so far!!

Ref the propshaft spacers: I had a pair made for the Disco as (mainly the front shaft) was running out of travel with the +3" lift and caster corrected radius arms. I did the drawing and got them made out of steel at a local machine shop. There's an article, complete with drawing, in the Workshop section on Mud Club. Wizard now makes them from alloy and sells them on his Ebay Shop.

Done, thanks.

Thanks for posting that Les, nice to see that we made a difference when it mattered. Special thanks should go to Tony for looking after the donations. Well done that man! P.S - Do you mind if I copy this over onto the Mud Club Les?

I know they are getting ready for Malvern this weekend Les so maybe busy. I'll PM Tim over on Mud Club and see if they are still doing them and get him to contact you but it maybe next week before either of us hear anything!

Ya, but I think Tims wife is running Muddyweb.

How about asking Tim at Muddyweb, like I said above, he sells/used to sell them so he may know a supplier.

It shouldn't really make any difference. The only things you need to change to get it into a Stage One V8 or Rangie is engine mounts, exhaust manifolds and flywheel, maybe the water pump/front casing as well as IIRC the SD1 pump is longer.

I did a quick Google and came up with THIS list which indicates the engine is a 9.35:1 compression ratio engine from a SD1 auto, made between 1979 & 1980. So I guess it would be a carb motor. If it has the original camshaft then you may want to chenge it for a Rangie cam to give you a bit more low end torque but apart from that then it should be OK.

Muddyweb used to do them, don't know it they still do, and you could have anything you want printed on it. Maybe worth an email or just fill out the Contact form on the site.

I like the TV channel on there and if you look at the start of each program then you'll see a bridge that's local to me!! The Vehicle driving over the bridge and the side view is the Scalpay Bridge, a single track bridge between the Isle of Harris and the Isle of Scalpay. IIRC Land Rover had a Range Rover, D3, RRS & Freelander up here to do promo' filming some time ago. Thanks for the link!

In that case Mark, no it shouldn't be loose! I think I'd remove it and have a look before buying anything, just in case the nut has need locked off short of where it should be and to make sure that any ware IS on the drop arm and not on the steering box shaft.