Budgie

You can go for a +1" lift that'll allow a little more clearance and should't affect the handling too much. The problem with the anti rollbars can be sorted by spacing them from the chassis by the same amount as the lift you fit. If you can get the solid alloy towhook spacers then they will do the trick and the bolt holes are the right spacing as well. If you go for the +2" lift and the corrected radius arms, you may find that these will set up a vibration in the front propshaft due to the increased angle that the U/j on the transfer box end is working at. The normal fix for this is to fit a Double Cardan propshaft from a TD5 which reduces the angle and takes out any "pulsing" from the propshaft. But that's another £200 +!! They look like this............. The other thing to think about is that the larger dia' you go on the tyre, the more it will effect the gearing of the vehicle and you may notice that it struggles to maintain speed going up hills. Your speedo will also read wrong as it's setup for the 205's but you can change the speedo drive gear in the transfer box to bring it about right. For more info on tyre sizes, have a look at this site, there's good info on there for you.

I went the other way and fitted the 1.4 transfer box to the Disco with 33" tyres and it works well for the road stuff. I only really notice the low box gearing on steep desents when you go a little fast then I would like. The main reason for going the transfer box route was cos of the money. But if you've got the cash and use the low range alot then I'd go for the R&P and do it at the same time as the lockers, as the others has advised. My Disco with the 33" tyres, just for reference. ......and why you may need the arches cut!

I always make sure I state on the auction "Payment to be with me within 7 days of the close of auction". 5 days after the auction close, if no payment or explanation has been received, I email the buyer informing them that they only have two days left to make payment and if nothing is received by that time then a "None Paying Bidder" will be filed against them with Ebay, neg feedback left and the next highest bidder will be offered the item. If I get an email back saying that they have just posted the money then they get 3 more days and but no more than that. I also block anyone from outside the UK from bidding as well as anyone with -1 feedback and I think the last one is anyone with a "None Paying bidder" listed against them in the last month, but not sure on that one. I also ask anyone with less that a feedback rating of 5 or less to email me before bidding or their bids will be removed. You've got to do all this now cos you just don't know who is out there.

Be nice to have a deep-cycle battery on a split charge that you can run the fridge and other things like lights and a 240 volt inverter off of. Then they can be kept running overnight and the motor will still start in the morning. Thought about a roof access ladder for the rear door? A Hi-Lift is a good investment, provided you've got lifting points on the Disco that will take it, otherwise it's an expensive & heavy bit of kit that you can only really use as a makeshift winch.

Last time I had anything from across the pond I used FedEx, good delivery time, they had it in Prestwick airport within 24 hours, and they sorted out customs for you. That was only a GPS though so not sure about an exhaust.

Flattery will get you everywhere Dunc. Just for you then, Belgium National 2005 trying to squeeze the roofrack under a tree trunk that was over hanging the track. Oh, and what can happen to those arches when you get a log jammed in the wheelarch. All better now though, nothing a little fibreglass & paint won't sort out!! We'll see you on the Mud Club as well then Dunk.

Yep, you shouldn't get any vibration with the standard radius arms, unless you go for the bushes. Although, I've heard the bushes don't last that long because of the stresses on them. But had no personal experience of them. The other option, if you can get hold of them, is caster correction swivel housings. Tomcat used to produce them but I'm not sure if they still do. They alter the caster angle without changing the angle of the axle so you don't get any propshaft problems. There's good threads on here and the Mud Club forum about lifting Discos. Here's a few on Mud Club to get you going but have a search through and see what you can find. Front Propshafts 1.4 Transfer box details +2" Lifts

The paddocks extrended bumpstops will fit a 300 TDi Disco, well they fit on mine!! You've got the right approach with trying the +2" lift before looking at the caster correction radius arms, the "tramlining" may not be that bad. A little word of warning: If you go for the caster correction radius arms then you will find that the change in the angle of the front diff will straighten the diff end U/J on the propshaft and tighten the transfer box end U/J. This will cause a heavy vibration in the propshaft and could lead to a wrecked transfer box output bearing or snapped U/J. The normal way round this is to fit a TD5 front propshaft known as a "Double Cardan" propshaft. This has a double U/J at the transfer box end and stops the viration. They are not cheap but available from Devon 4x4 & Scorpion do their own. This is my double cardan front prop, note the angle of the U/J at the diff end. The longer break lines is a must with +2" lift, even if you don't intend going to extreams, it's better to be safe than rip out a break line when you need it most!

Its the injector pump fueling that you need to alter not the fuel pump timing. Allisport are also a good place to try for the larger intercooler and they, like the others, will set it all up for you as well. I don't think you'll find any diesel tuners that will gaurantee thier work cos they don't know the state of the engine when you bring it in. They gaurantee and band new engine that they put together! If your getting a larger intercooler fitted then leave the injector pump alterations until this is done so they have standard settings to work from.

I have my eBay profile set so that only Bidders from a UK address can bid on my stuff, there's couple of other things you can set as well. You can set it in one of the sections off My eBay for those that didn't know it was there.

Toby, any idea why the chap in in the background has a bullet proof vest on? I didn't know off-roading was that dangerous!!

I've only been scammed once but I caught it before sending any money. I bid on a DVD box set and won the auction. When the email came through with the sellers address on it, for some reason, I decided to check it and found it was a mail forwarding company in London. So I sent an email to the seller telling them I'd found this and wanted personal name & address before any money was going to be sent. I got a nasty reply saying that if I didn't sent any money then they would leave negative feedback and that would be the end of my ebay account! Ya right! I sent everything to ebay and when I checked back a couple of hours later they had been removed along with the other 50+ auctions they had running. Although I only received an automated email from ebay to say that had received my email, nothing to tell me not to send money to these people and what to do if I had already done so!

Local scrapyards or places like Equicar may have something in there if noone on here has one.

How about a pair fo these front spring retainers next time you get an order from Paddock's? That would keep the springs where you want them.

For light water use: 1.Plastic or metal shield to cover the front of the dizzy and stop any spray getting on it. 2.Silicone grease around the base of the dizzy cap to seal it. 3.Holts Easy Start spray on the all the leads. Pull up the rubber cap and spray the top of the dizzy cap and the lead, then slide the rubber cap into place before the Easy Start dries. Do the same on the coil. 4. As stated above about getting an electric fan fitted with a switch and loose the viscous one. These work okay on a carb V8, not sure about EFi.

Steve, if you've reaised it 60mm from what it was then you may find the from prop is at the limit of its stretch and it's this that's causing the vibration. I found this on the Disco with a 3" lift & I fitted the Carden jointed front prop. I ended up making a 10mm thick spacer to go between the diff flange & the propshaft. The drawing of the spacer is here and here's a before & after pic.

Although this may have been the intention Les, unfortunately without the original advert, those of us that didn't see it are unable to make comment as to whether it constiutes an abuse of the system or not. All we have to go on are the posts in this thread, hense my "preceived" victimisation of Nick .

I always wanted a Jensen Interceptor, the 4x4 version of course! or a Dodge Ram Pick-up.

Ah, this reminds me of the good old days on the LRUK Forum. My take on it is this: If you put a free classified forum on here then you want people to use it, no matter how many posts they make or how much profit they may make from the items they sell. Granted, you don't want companies advertising on it and the rules at the top of the section clearly state what you can and can't do on there. But unless you are going to insist on a charge for using the classified section (note "charge" & not "donation" as a donation is something you are not required to give if you don't want too.), make the section "Donating Members Only" or limit the price or type of items advertised then you either stop all this nonsense and go back to normal or remove the section from the forum. The fact that this thread has been moved into the International Forum (without the original advert!) and made Sticky has not really helped the situation. It could have remained where it was, the whole thing dealt with via PM or email, and most of us would never have seen it, unless that was the idea. All this has done, in my eyes, is make it look like the forum admin want a cut of what one longstanding member is advertising on here. That, surly, is discrimination against a single member unless the intention is to ask for a cut, sorry, donation from everyone who advertises and make it a rule of the forum! Don't get me wrong, I know the forum has to be paid for some how and running my own website I know the costs involved, I just don't think this is the way to win friends and encourage future donations.

Well spotted Toby. They look like the 4 door rear arches and it's local pickup only. They would make good spares and handy if you live in the Manchester area. I've now got mine done, I glassed it back together and made rather a good job of it, if I do say so myself!!

It's been on there all day Les. The lunchtime news on ITV was talking about "Gas Guzzlers" and "polluters" but (apparently) the BMJ report makes no reference to the vehicles being either of these!! Just ITN making it more sensational that it actually is. As someone on another forum said: It doesn't take a report to realise that your going to get injured if you step in front of any vehicle, not just 4x4!! I don't think warning stickers will do it either. I mean, how much time do they think someone normally has before impacked with the front of any vehicle, enough time to read a warning sticker??? "Oh hang on, this is one of them 4x4 things that's going to kill me, think I'll step in front of this Astra instead"

Spot on Stephen, I've only heard about it happening to vehicles that have suspension lifts and the easy way round it is to fit spacers under the ARB mounting onto the chassis. I've been told that the solid alloy towball spacers have the correct hole spacing and do the job well. Lowering the ARB will prevent the balljoint fully extending and having the opportunity to flip over.

Not really, they rotate the axle to bring the caster angle on the steering back into the normal position. This action lowers the diff flange, increasing the angle on the U/J on the transfer box end of the propshaft. I had the same on the Disco when I corrected the caster angle. It set up a low speed Pulsing on the front prop and was only fixed with the Cardon front prop off a TD5 Disco. If you leave it too long before doing anything then it will first start leaking from the transfer box output seal and, in time, will wreck the output bearing as well!

Here you go, the repaired arch :

Yep, all repaired, sprayed and back on the Disco today. Most of the time was spent waiting for the resin to go off so I could get on with the next bit. I just need to T-cut the paint and you would'nt know it's been damaged.