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Ally V8

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Ally V8 last won the day on December 30 2017

Ally V8 had the most liked content!

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About Ally V8

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Nr Bath,SW UK.

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  • Interests
    LR Independant,mostly diagnostic work.

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  1. For the amount of effort involved I wouldn't bother. ABS on D1's was a poor system anyway, nowhere near as good as the electro hydraulic system on RRC's or P38's.
  2. Yep, go for it. I have just used one of their DII 1/4 Chassis Galvanised units. Very good fit and finish. I've been using their Defender ones for several years with no problem. The last ones that I had from Britpart and the like were awful...
  3. Ally V8

    D2 v8 overheating

    Absolutely, and its the diagnosis that is often done badly.That and drivers often ignore the engine complaining and drive the nails in beyond return...
  4. Ally V8

    D2 v8 overheating

    Probably not,the poor quality of the 94mm bore Rover V8's has led to many P38's and DII's being scrapped well before their time. Loose liners or cracked blocks were all too common.A real shame because I lost too many customers who lost large sums when their v8 died. The engine should not have been bored out like they did,it needed a larger block with wider bore centres .
  5. All you need to do is tap it out with a 3/8" BSP tap.Needs no drilling etc,then obviously a 3/8 bung. I use hydraulic fittings to do this,same as used for blanking hydraulic ports in spool blocks. Any Ag dealership or hydraulics place should have them on the shelf.
  6. Ally V8

    D2 Steering knuckle workshop time

    I usually take a couple of hours per side if its not all rusted up. But I often have to stop to answer the phone or be ordering parts etc. I have the correct hydraulic puller kit to do the job,it helps a great deal rather than having a generic type puller.
  7. Sorry can't help you with the o rings, I've only ever replaced the whole thing - that was several years ago...
  8. Ally V8

    Disco cuts out

    My own TD5 auto does this now and then,my take on it is that although the BCU is mobilised, (After unlocking with the fob) when you crank the engine the engine ecu has to also see a code from the BCU. This somehow does not always happen,so you get the fire and die situation,in exactly the same way you would if you fitted a different engine ecu and didn't do a security learn. Making sure you have a decent,well charged battery of the correct size helps,plus pausing for a couple of seconds after key position 2 before going to key 3,(Cranking) will help too.
  9. You are quite right,I didn't look at the photo,only read the part listing - Which is clearly wrong.
  10. Sorry, my scopes are Pico 2 and 4 channel - bit much to do a single job. As much as I hate the parts shotgun, I think you might be better of in this case. I see Island 4x4 do a Bosch pressure reg for your car at £85+Vat.
  11. Ally V8

    Disco 2 or Disco 3 ..... Discuss!

    I think you will find that ZF revised their service intervals for these boxes well after they were out in service - and starting to give problems. Which is nothing compared to what is going on with some of their current 9 speed auto's.
  12. Without a scope you are just guessing. As I see it you either need to find a decent garage that really does understand Bosch common rail ,(Fail as we call it) maybe even a dedicated Bosch fuel shop ? Or you can just replace the regulator on the pump. From the symptoms you describe that is the most likely component. Unfortunately a multimeter is of very limited help with what you are diagnosing. Please use either OEM or genuine parts for these repairs,there are some horribly cheap and nasty parts on offer,these will either fail quickly or muddy the waters even more.
  13. Ally V8

    Disco cuts out

    It would help if you could confirm what car it is, you say a 94 TD5 . A 1994 Discovery would be a TDI, wheras a 1999 on would be a TD5.
  14. I think you are confusing yourself slightly. First off, the engine ecu uses the rail pressure sensor to dictate what to output to the fuel pressure regulator as closed loop control. So when you disconnect it the ecu just uses a default value based on other sensor values such as rpm,coolant temp,airflow and driver demand etc. You are measuring voltages I assume with a multimeter,so are seeing average voltages based on the fairly slow refresh rate of the meter. There are only really two ways to sort this out,firstly the parts shotgun, if I had no choice but to do this I would replace the pressure regulator first,its way more likely to fail than the sensor. The better way to sort it is to use an oscilliscope,with this you would be able to see the duty cycle of the square wave of voltage applied to the regulator, plus the varying output from the rail sensor.With a decent scope you can then freeze frame the waveforms and see what pressure a duty cycle of say 70% on time produces as a pressure reading at a given rpm. The rail sensor should show a voltage output of 0.5v key on,engine off. This should rise rapidly upon cranking,once above about 1.2-1.4v there is enough pressure for the ecu to start firing the injectors.The voltage should then rise to about 4.5v with a wise open throttle and immediately come back down on releasing the pedal. That is the theory,however when I had a problem with a non starting TD6 RR a few years back I found that the ecu would fire each injector 3 times whatever the rail pressure as soon as it was cranking.(Analog to digital converter unit was at fault inside the ecu in that case) But the principle is the same,0.5v raising to about 4.5v max. The reason you don't get a check engine lamp with the sensor disconnected is because the software in the ecu does not command it for that fault,I don't think LR ever listed,(As they do for later cars) a fault code list that shows command Mil yes/no, plus a detailed description of possible fault causes.
  15. In my experience its usually a cabling or connector fault. Rarely the sensor itself.There is even a replacement overlay harness as a fix from LR.

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