RGK

Squeaky arse time! I was thinking the hub bolts ie yhe flange parts was rubbing against the alloy, but your telling me the hub bolt position changed?

I'm sure this will have been experienced before... I have 110 B reg Disc front brakes, drums on rear. HD drive flanges (thick type TF5806) installed with 30mm spacers to allow boost alloys. However the alloy seems to be catching something. Do I need to change the flange bolts to hex head DA1128?

Thanks for the replies. It's sadly nice that others have had issues with the mounting bracket. I wish my problem could be solved with a spacer. But mine need material taking of taking the caliper out. Which is more difficult to do ie ensuring the face is flat and true. Why can't britpart make better parts...especially as these mounts aren't cheap

Hi I'm doing a drum to disc conversion. All parts in, but I'm having an align and clearance issue with the caliper. The caliper mounting bracket (FTC3306) needed tweaking/ trimming the internal radial to clear the axle welds. But the caliper is rubbing/ wedged to the disc. Has anyone had this issue? Where the mounting brackets meets the caliper need machining to allow the caliper to clear the outside of the disc? Advise would be greatly appreciated

Hi, I refurbishing my sankey trailer, which all in all is going well. However I'm having trouble identifying parts (ie serviceable parts): Wheel bearings Seals Damper and bushes Leaf spring bushes Grease nipple Leather oil seal Oil seals Shoes Shoe springs Brake adjuster Brake extender I believe these parts are series based. Is this true. Thanks for any help

BIG thank you to everyone. i could have spent a fortune and made a completely undriveable vehicle. I'm now confident that standard springs & shocks are the way forward. and in the event the rear gets a 'saggy arse' i'll install helper springs/ air bags.

Hi, I've had some conflicting advise from two land rover parts suppliers/ specialists, i'm not going to mention them as not to undermine their businesses. Scenario: I own a defender 90 1986 (300tdi), and was thinking of upgrading the suspension without increase the height of the vehicle. Therefore my thoughts are to fit: +2 Big Bore Expedition Shocks Std height heavy load springs Dislocation cones allround Assuming over 5,000 miles per annum the 90 is used for 20% green laning, 30% traveling (tarmac & unsurfaced roads) & 50% normal road use. The vehicle will be full ladened for traveling, and lightened in normal use, however still carrying (3/4) roof rack & rear tub storage box, second spare, aux battery and second fuel tank. I'm concerned the suspension system indicated above may be too ridged/ hard for normal use or standard setup wont be able to hand the mean or gross weight increase?? Advice Source 1: recommend heavy load springs, uprated shocks, basically as described above. Advice Source 2: recommend using standard springs and shocks. on the basis that heavy load should be used when the vehicle is 'heavy' on tarmac roads. A lighter vehicle/ unladened off road wouldn't compress the springs thus loosing traction and on road would be too hard of a ride. Could anyone advise before i purchase the wrong setup. Thanks

Hi, The wifes disco 1 has one more mot in it, then i'm planning to strip it for parts ie engine, axles, etc for my 90. Which left me with the conundrum what to do with the leftovers... the chassis and body. One thought was to chop the front end off to re-engineer into a trailer/ camper (as sketched attached). My questions are: 1. has anyone done this conversion and/ or towed a conversion like this? if so, how was it? is it to heavy? 2. am i better to cut the disco down from the A pillar or make it shorter by cutting from the B pillar? 3. Could i lighten the chassis? D1 1996 Dim's - Draft Layout 1.pdf

That makes sense. I'll adjust it and let you know.

I spoke to the parts supplier yesterday and their technical person. 2 responses: 1st via sales... "We has lots of instance of this seal failing. One guy tried it 4 times before giving up." 2nd technical... "The plastic/ rubber seal can create hair line mark on the shaft that van course failure when under high pressure"

I took the whole thing apart and cleaned. The bottom seal was leaking before hand.

OEM seal used

Help! I've recon'd a PAS box...We'll new seals, cleaned put it back together thought I did a pretty good job. Refit, bleed and ran in (stationary on axle stands, lock to lock) worked perfectly. However once on the deck I tested the steering then notice fluid on the floor. The bottom seal leak/ pours out only on right hand steering/ lock. Does anyone know why? Thanks

Thank you to everyone for your replies. I thought i would add a status update regarding the 'Upol Raptor' paint given its been on the truck for 2 years. Application: Due to limited space, the good wifey let me take over the garden/ yard to paint the following under a gazebo! doors (front & back) Wings Bonnet Roof 1. Generally everything was rubbed down and bare alu was hand painted with acid etch. 2. all surfaces rubbed down and cleaned 3. 2 pac primer applied by brush 4. rubbed down & cleaned 5. upol raptor sprayed on with 20% thinners, with black for the roof and satin grey for everything else Pros: Acid etch paints amazingly well by brush Upol spray's ridiculously easily, considering I've never sprayed anything before. The Upol tintable has maintained its colour strength. Cons: Don't hand brush 2 pac primer...far to thick, resulting in needless hours of sanding. The doors required repairs prior which left large parts need to striped to the bare metal. Since painting there has been a few areas where the paint has separated from the alu. i can only assume i either (or both) hadn't applied enough acid etch or the surface had become contaminated & subsequently i hadn't cleaned is enough. My intention is next summer i will rub down these areas and repaint by hand. The black raptor paint for the roof isn't very 'black' Principles for painting the remainder of the 90 was the same as above however a friend kindly let me use his garage...this made ALL the difference...heat, easy of access, cleaner and controlled environment, etc, etc I haven't had a single issue with the painted areas that had been painted in the garage. As mentioned above i thinned the upol raptor paint by 20% as i didn't want a rough finish. The thinned version hasn't diminished the durability. however my only criticism is that when mixing the upol base paint, plus hardener, plus thinners, plus colour must be mixed in separate containers rather than the upol mixing bottle supplied. The paint work has been scrapped in few places, but i'm not concerned as my theory of using the raptor paint is that the surface isnt glossy nor matt that repairing means painting an entire panel. My plan is to patch paint the scruffed areas summer 2019 by hand. I'll post the results then.

I forgot to ask how msny coats did you apply?