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Everything posted by RGK

  1. Hi, I refurbishing my sankey trailer, which all in all is going well. However I'm having trouble identifying parts (ie serviceable parts): Wheel bearings Seals Damper and bushes Leaf spring bushes Grease nipple Leather oil seal Oil seals Shoes Shoe springs Brake adjuster Brake extender I believe these parts are series based. Is this true. Thanks for any help
  2. BIG thank you to everyone. i could have spent a fortune and made a completely undriveable vehicle. I'm now confident that standard springs & shocks are the way forward. and in the event the rear gets a 'saggy arse' i'll install helper springs/ air bags.
  3. Hi, I've had some conflicting advise from two land rover parts suppliers/ specialists, i'm not going to mention them as not to undermine their businesses. Scenario: I own a defender 90 1986 (300tdi), and was thinking of upgrading the suspension without increase the height of the vehicle. Therefore my thoughts are to fit: +2 Big Bore Expedition Shocks Std height heavy load springs Dislocation cones allround Assuming over 5,000 miles per annum the 90 is used for 20% green laning, 30% traveling (tarmac & unsurfaced roads) & 50% normal road use. The vehicle will be full ladened for traveling, and lightened in normal use, however still carrying (3/4) roof rack & rear tub storage box, second spare, aux battery and second fuel tank. I'm concerned the suspension system indicated above may be too ridged/ hard for normal use or standard setup wont be able to hand the mean or gross weight increase?? Advice Source 1: recommend heavy load springs, uprated shocks, basically as described above. Advice Source 2: recommend using standard springs and shocks. on the basis that heavy load should be used when the vehicle is 'heavy' on tarmac roads. A lighter vehicle/ unladened off road wouldn't compress the springs thus loosing traction and on road would be too hard of a ride. Could anyone advise before i purchase the wrong setup. Thanks
  4. Hi, The wifes disco 1 has one more mot in it, then i'm planning to strip it for parts ie engine, axles, etc for my 90. Which left me with the conundrum what to do with the leftovers... the chassis and body. One thought was to chop the front end off to re-engineer into a trailer/ camper (as sketched attached). My questions are: 1. has anyone done this conversion and/ or towed a conversion like this? if so, how was it? is it to heavy? 2. am i better to cut the disco down from the A pillar or make it shorter by cutting from the B pillar? 3. Could i lighten the chassis? D1 1996 Dim's - Draft Layout 1.pdf
  5. That makes sense. I'll adjust it and let you know.
  6. I spoke to the parts supplier yesterday and their technical person. 2 responses: 1st via sales... "We has lots of instance of this seal failing. One guy tried it 4 times before giving up." 2nd technical... "The plastic/ rubber seal can create hair line mark on the shaft that van course failure when under high pressure"
  7. I took the whole thing apart and cleaned. The bottom seal was leaking before hand.
  8. Help! I've recon'd a PAS box...We'll new seals, cleaned put it back together thought I did a pretty good job. Refit, bleed and ran in (stationary on axle stands, lock to lock) worked perfectly. However once on the deck I tested the steering then notice fluid on the floor. The bottom seal leak/ pours out only on right hand steering/ lock. Does anyone know why? Thanks
  9. Thank you to everyone for your replies. I thought i would add a status update regarding the 'Upol Raptor' paint given its been on the truck for 2 years. Application: Due to limited space, the good wifey let me take over the garden/ yard to paint the following under a gazebo! doors (front & back) Wings Bonnet Roof 1. Generally everything was rubbed down and bare alu was hand painted with acid etch. 2. all surfaces rubbed down and cleaned 3. 2 pac primer applied by brush 4. rubbed down & cleaned 5. upol raptor sprayed on with 20% thinners, with black for the roof and satin grey for everything else Pros: Acid etch paints amazingly well by brush Upol spray's ridiculously easily, considering I've never sprayed anything before. The Upol tintable has maintained its colour strength. Cons: Don't hand brush 2 pac primer...far to thick, resulting in needless hours of sanding. The doors required repairs prior which left large parts need to striped to the bare metal. Since painting there has been a few areas where the paint has separated from the alu. i can only assume i either (or both) hadn't applied enough acid etch or the surface had become contaminated & subsequently i hadn't cleaned is enough. My intention is next summer i will rub down these areas and repaint by hand. The black raptor paint for the roof isn't very 'black' Principles for painting the remainder of the 90 was the same as above however a friend kindly let me use his garage...this made ALL the difference...heat, easy of access, cleaner and controlled environment, etc, etc I haven't had a single issue with the painted areas that had been painted in the garage. As mentioned above i thinned the upol raptor paint by 20% as i didn't want a rough finish. The thinned version hasn't diminished the durability. however my only criticism is that when mixing the upol base paint, plus hardener, plus thinners, plus colour must be mixed in separate containers rather than the upol mixing bottle supplied. The paint work has been scrapped in few places, but i'm not concerned as my theory of using the raptor paint is that the surface isnt glossy nor matt that repairing means painting an entire panel. My plan is to patch paint the scruffed areas summer 2019 by hand. I'll post the results then.
  10. I forgot to ask how msny coats did you apply?
  11. Thanks Donald. How thick is the paint when applied? Would it cover brush marks, scratches, etc? Did yiu thin your paint? Im thinking of thinning it down to achieve a less course surface
  12. Ok ive going for it....ive purchased upol raptor tintable. Ive prepared the surfaces by: Sanded with 80 grit Etch bare metal Applied epoxy primer by brush Rubbed down with 180grit And going to spray the upol raptor My question is "how well does the rub down need to be prior to application of upol?" Will the upol raptor hide the imperfections that other paints (ie normal celly & thinners) would show? Thanks, as I could save alot of time
  13. Thanks for the help and advice. Finally got her started.
  14. Hi, I'm thinking of painting my 90 with upol raptor paint and application by roller. Does anyone have any advise? How many litres? Thanks
  15. Thanks everyone for your posts. I'm currently using the 300tdi disco axles on the 90, therefore solid disc's in all corners. Great points raised, especially over sizing the rear thus locking them up when under weight...as most of the driving will be onroad thetefore minimising the 'oh duck, mother duckkkkkker,....' moments of dispear in front of the kids will win me brownie points with the wife. I believe to convert the front to vented discs will be expensive compared to the performance gain...plus vs/ or alternatively... applying decent pads with drilled/ vented solid discs all round is a cheaper option with near same results. However are drilled and vented discs really a major issue when offroading ie collection of stones in the holes thus destroying the pad & disc?? An interesting topic
  16. Hi, I have put 300tdi axles onto my Defender 90. My intention (in the future) is to increase the bhp and offroading/ expedition equipment. In which will increase the load on the brakes. The current 300tdi front disc's are non vented, therefore rather the converting the front callipers to vented and before I sell the redundant 2.5na axle I thought of improving the current rear 300tdi discs with the front discs & callipers from the 2.5NA. Is this possible and practical? Can the existed 2.5NA brake cylinder & servo handle it? Thanks.
  17. Thanks for the advice. Ive been round tonight 'in the rain', the things you do for your landy!! Ive taken the following pic's, can you advise/ clarify my assumptions, all of the below are 2.5na cables: Photo 010, is the starter cables, 2 x brown wires into 1 connection two off, plus the solenoid brown(red) & yellow wire. I don't know what the other green wire is for? Could be the cylinder head sensor?? Photo 006, alternator connection block, does anyone know which is th W, D+ & B+? , i assume the other green wire wihin the alternator loom is for the thermo? Photo 009, assume the white is the fuel pump soleniod, dont know what the other wire is? Great advice so far. All making sense. I think for ease, ie get'in on the road, I'll try to use the existing, then improve outside the house ASAP. When ive looked at the disco 300tdi loom to the 2.5na loom there seems to be major differences, or do I just replace the existing cable (previously mentioned) with larger? Thanks again
  18. Hi, Ive replaced both axles with 300tdi, to ensure the brake arent under servo'd ive replaced the existing servo and master cylinder with the from the 300tdi. It took a bit of effort to redrill the two mounting holes...then I thought last night 'could I have used the original 2.5na servo with the 300tdi master cylinder?' Any thoughts and advise greatly welcome Thanks
  19. Hi, Finally I've become an owner of my first land rover. Unfortunately time isn't on my side, twins on the way, project is on a friends drive, his wife is being very understanding & thus I don't want to push it. Please could someone assist ASAP We've mounted the 300tdi into the 90, however I've had a couple of issues with the engine wiring. The defender started life as a 2.5na 1986. Does anyone of a simple easy to follow guide to do this? I've read that some of the 2.5na cables such as the alternator & starter may not hold enough amp's to accommodate the 300tdi. Other connections such as the 300tdi cylinder head temperature sensor has dual connections, compared to the 2.5na single. Hence a easy step by step guide with photos would save me extremely valuable time. Thanks
  20. Thanks for the offer, a test drive and pearls of wisdom would be greatly appreciated (maybe over a pie & a pint). Which part of the country are you in?
  21. i've read that the RR2 has a wheelbase of 108". Great point about 'cut'n'shunt' and family, hate to say it may be 'not-seeing-the-wood-for the trees'. Do you have any advice regarding the +'s of 110 & 130?
  22. Thanks, looks like i've had some duff advice (as previous quoted in my conversation with Keir)! What would you say are the pron's & con's between 110 and 130? to be honest the cost vs the benefit of a V8 vs diesel, i am now considering diesel
  23. It was suggested to me and I thought made sense (at the time) that by buying and using a Range Rover I could use the engine (V8?, dreaming about a supercharged HSE, dreaming mind, but nice), air suspension, ABS, brakes, ac, interior (some, but more comfy for the wifey), etc and cut down on cost and time in modifying a 110 or 130. Upon investigating Rangy’s do not seem to retain their value in comparison to the trusty defender, and defender body parts seem to be cheaper than Range Rover. Thanks for your comments, as I really need guidance from ‘people-in-the-know’ before I start shelling £’s.
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