mr_mcp

I'll give drilling a go then - cheers all!

I can definitely confirm the holes are lined up when the key is turned to the appropriate angle. The trouble is, the pin is either currently depressed all the way (as there is no give and doesn't appear to be raised like the it is on the replacement barrel), or could it have been inserted upside-down?? I tried gripping it with needle-nose pliers and pulling, but it only budged about 1mm. Thanks again

Hello, I took off my read door lock (defender 90) at the weekend and was intending to change the barrel. However, when I line up the two holes, I cannot see a visible barrel plunger (see attached pic). I’ve tried applying copious amount of WD40 and apply force into the hole, but I cannot budge the barrel. Can I drill it out, or is my only option to buy a whole new lock assembly? Cheers

Nice 90, looks like it's in great shape! Like Western said, are you sure it's a 200 - I thought standard 200's had the intake on the left??

I might also try and make it! I'll let you know Scott

The same thing happened to me, I went to a local exhaust garage and they wanted £120 for a custom rear pipe which would exit through the body work behind the rear tyre. This would prevent it snagging in ruts or getting knocked etc. Not sure if that's a good price though? Anyone had similar work done (new ss pipe without silencer or cat)?

How do you open it up? Is it a quick & simple job?

I've tried some rad flush previously, made bugger all difference though...

It may be the barrels themselves freezing up – although it does seem odd that you can open it in the first place. I cannot vouch for central locking as I have manual locks, however when my locks freeze the door handles and door pins also stick. The best remedy I’ve found is to squirt the barrels with WD40 – it’s kept them lock/freeze free for the last couple of weeks in minus temperatures now...

Interesting thread. I filled up with Shell vPower a week or so ago and noticed no difference whatsoever, I wonder if there is a vast difference between Shell & BP? Also, I assume your tyre pressures/no. of passengers etc didn't change dramatically between the two journeys?

I'd personally just get some new standard barrels, your current ones just sound worn. The trouble with getting fancy locks means a potential theif may just look for another weakness so you may not be any better off.

I managed to get it on with a load of lube and a pair of mole grips in the end. Just looked at the manufacturer on the packet - britpart! What a surprise!!!

Hi, on this fine cold snowy morning I decided to fit my new speedo cable. The old one came off fine and I fitted the new one into the transfer box without any issues, only to find out the damn thing is too tight to fit onto the speedo dial. My old one slotted on fine and clicked into place but the new one seems far too snug and wont go all the way. Before I spend more time getting frustrated and tearing my hands up, are they all the same size or have paddocks sent me the wrong one?! Part no. PRC6022 (for a 300Tdi) Thanks in advance! Mr_mcp

Thanks for the response chaps, what I'm really after is the size and wattage etc that I should be looking for. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!!

I've read a couple of posts about using LED sidelights and it's tempted me to make yet another pointless purchase on the landy! Anyhow I'm not sure which type to go for, can anyone recommend a type/bulb? Was it worth it? Cheers!

I've looked at a few posts regarding the penny fix and it sounds like a possible solution although I’m baffled as to why this would suddenly come around out of the blue?? I took of my belt last night and painstakingly inspected each and every thread with a screwdriver. There were a few lodged in bits of grit and some shiny areas (not sure if that’s normal on new belts)? Would it be obvious if my belt was shagged? It looks okay to me but I could be missing something... Looking back at my receipts it looks like I last replaced the belt back in March. Thanks again!

I fitted one with extensions from Paddocks recently. The welds were good quality and was a good fit. Just ensure you add a few more layers of protection to keep the rust at bay. mr_mcp

I was wondering if the grease etc on the belt was making it squeak in the first place - do you think brake cleaner on the belt and pullys would be a good idea?

Lol I feel for you, it's driving me mad!!!!

Hi, my belt is making a loud high pitched squeal at the moment. I've changed the alternator and the belt tensioner and the other pulleys seem fine. When I spray the belt with WD40 the noise stops for a little while. The belt isn't very old at all and looks alright to me. I changed it back over to my old one and it seems to make the same noise. Any ideas what may be causing this?? Thanks in advance!

Does anyone have any tips for removing the pulley from an alternator? I can't get the bugger off, the nut is too tight and I don't have a vice to hold the damn thing still!!

Does anyone have any tips for panel beating? The previous owner of my 90 has made numerous dents in the rear panels/van sides and I want to beat them out without damaging the paint. I've no idea what tools to use either?!?! Any suggestions? Thanks, mr_mcp

ha, ok thanks guys!

Hi, I recently changed the belt tensioner on my 300TDi and at the time I noticed the bearing on the alternator sounded pretty ropey. The alternator squeal has got progressively worse now and it's driving me mad! Can I replace the bearing (as it still charges fine) or would it be better just to replace the unit? Thanks, mr_mcp

It'd be rude not to buy a few cheeky accessories You'll soon realise what a money pit these things are!...but fun by the same token