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SteveG

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SteveG last won the day on October 8 2017

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About SteveG

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    Cambridge, UK

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    lots ;-)

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  1. Venturing off road again.......

    P38’s rust too. The 96 one we stripped for the 4.6 V8 had heavily rusted outriggers, rear crossmember, and EAS tank. The main chassis was fine though. Another thing to remember on D2’s, as well as the rust, the majority don’t have diff lock, so you’ll most likely have to retrofit one. As already said both the 4.0 and 4.6 can suffer from the slipped liners, so both D2 & P38 are the same here. Most of the electrical gremlins on a p38 can be bypassed easily. A p38 on air is a better drive than a D2, but for off-roading, HD steering arms, suspension, bumpers etc. are readily available and cheap. have fun picking one
  2. Compressor regulator fittings??

    Thanks, I appreciate the response, albeit I’ve got to now go and get yet more connectors. I’ve tried to unscrew them, but they won’t budge without applying enough force to damage them. cheers, Steve
  3. I recently ordered a new SIP compressor and 200l tank. I’m now in the process of hooking it up to my existing SIP compressor with 100l tank. Unlike the existing one, the regulator that comes with the new one doesn’t have the usual female 1/4” fittings it has these fittings with taps included... What are they?? A 1/4 BSP will thread on, but it’s loose as there’s no taper, and it doesn’t look like 1/4 BSPP as there’s no collar at the end for a copper washer/o-ring and also there are two flats on the threads. I assume there some sort of hose fitting that has a nut collar on that you slide into the receiver and then spin that until nut is tight, and the nut collar has an o-ring to seal it. Either way it looks no good to me. Looks like I’ll have to remove them and screw in my 1/4 XF quick release females into the body of the regulator cheers Steve
  4. Overall width - anyone had width issues laning?

    No, although I’m sure there’s plenty of Lane from hell’s. This one is in South Wales, with a less than p38 wide gate at the top. Here’s a video of Mark90 driving it...
  5. Overall width - anyone had width issues laning?

    When I used to lane the p38, ~2001, there were only about 3-4 lanes I couldn’t do due to gate width. Typically one of them was ‘Lane from hell’ which was a pain in the derrière. Not an issue anymore as it was a RUPP, and some of the other ones may have been as well, so irrelevant now. Only other issue was doing a couple of lanes on the mountainside where it felt like the ruts were the only thing stopping you from sliding down the mountain. In the p38 you could only drop one side of wheels in. Still here, so obviously not an issue, but it certainly made you wish the Lane ended soon. cheers, Steve
  6. Spark plugs for 4.6 P38 on LPG

    I assume magnecor are still decent?
  7. Removing bitumen headlining glue stuff?

    I found a hot air gun and scrapers best to get the majority off, then white spirit to clean off last few bits and residue before painting. cheers, Steve
  8. Good dust mask ?

    After trying a bunch at various prices, the best one I’ve found is the 3M flexible mask... https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-7502-Medium-Reusable-Half-Mask/dp/B00FYNN5J6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523811575&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+7502+mask Once the mask is bought, the dust filters work out about £8 a pair... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pairs-3M-6000-Particulate-Filters/dp/B00SOKSH0I/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WKKEKP73MCYXCMMYW7C6 The fit is really good, and you can easily drop the mask down around your neck when not needed. You can also fit A1 or A2 filters if painting, working with chemicals. I ended up getting two in the medium size and having one set up as dust and one as paint/chemicals. cheers, Steve
  9. The diesels all used separate pumps so you should be a able to easily source a range rover classic diesel pick up that will fit your tank.
  10. Range Rover Classic Swivels

    I have a pair of RRC ABS and non ABS swivels here if you want to check if they’re better than yours. Hills Road before Addenbrookes. cheers, Steve
  11. Forum relay or 1 way trip?

    Hi Jon Can’t help with relay, but when I had the non runner range rover classic donor picked up from Manchester to Cambridge, shipping via shiply quote was £267, to give you an idea of worst case costs. cheers Steve
  12. I’ll look on the donor 91 3.9 and what the factory starter cable is. cheers, Steve
  13. Thanks John, this is the reason for posting this stuff on here. For example if you go by the voltage drop theory online and use calculators, like those on 12v planet that recommend no more than 3-4%, you end up needing 16mm2 cable for the rear heated window. LR uses what looks like the equivalent of 6mm2. So from your experience of burning them out, for the starter feed what’s recommended 25mm2? cheers, Steve
  14. Range Rover Classic Headlight Upgrade

    They are obviously getting some juice from another circuit. With halogens you wouldn’t see this, but with LED’s they typically switch on at 9v, and draw so little current. When you installed them, did you just plug in or look at removing dim/dip modules, isolating wiring etc.? To get them working ok, you’d need to look at isolating the circuit and directly wiring them in to the main beam and hi beam switches. If you want the option to be able to retrofit in halogens in the future you’d have to do this via relays for a good install. Hopefully this helps. cheers, Steve
  15. I’m learning too . I’ll see what the 221 series look like when they arrive, but so far they look like a good solution to the multiple junctions I’ll need, especially on the lighting circuits.
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