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Everything posted by SteveG

  1. I have a compact M18 Milwaukee 1/2” impact wrench and an M18 drill. All good, but the compact wouldn’t undo fastened (torqued correctly) wheel nuts and harder stuff, even though it was rated to 300NM. It’s size is great though for getting into most things and it’s relatively light for long use. So when I wanted a beefier impact wrench I found the Makita ones better specified and cheaper than Milwaukee, even though it meant a battery system change. It didn’t for me as I’d recently bought some 36v (2x 18v) Makita tools for gardening. So last year I bought a Makita DTW1002Z - £190 body only at that time with a discount, available then at £210. As said above it’s a lot heavier, so using it upside down under a car will be tiring, and it’s bulk sometimes limits it use, but it loosens everything first time, or it snaps it off 🙄, even M12 nuts. There’s obviously not much to pick between them, but if I had to settle on one make after using both, I’d go Makita.
  2. You should be ok with 10% thinners, that is what I have used. You’ll get a light texture if you use a primer tip, 1.8/2.0. Use a something like 1.4, and flat back the primer and you’ll get a completely smooth finish like any other top coat, albeit super hard. I tried some test pieces on some ally plate and you could hit it pretty hard with a hammer or screwdriver without damage. It will certainly take some off road abuse ok. I think for liners, upol recommends the Schultz gun to achieve the full textured finish as it gives better protection to shock impacts. Remember that it contains isocyanates, so suit up, use gloves and an air fed mask, even when mixing up. cheers, Steve
  3. Not the best light, but again I think it looks ok...
  4. It may be polyeurethane based, but that’s like saying enamel paint is like 2 pack. 🙄 I don’t think it looks too bad...
  5. That will be too low temps. You wouldn’t want to paint it below 15 degrees c.
  6. The same person that came up with the idea of having the 130 be just a longer version of the 110 (same wheelbase) and push it further up the price range. 🙄 Also, the same person that axed the pick up version, despite them claiming it was coming, even last year.
  7. Most likely this. Waiting for Neil to add his thoughts too 😉
  8. Agree with you there. At the launch of the Jeep you get the designer talking about how they designed the arches so that owners could fit 35” mud terrains, at Defender launch you get McGovern spouting on about verticality, durability and solid panels above the wheel arches to give solidness 🙄🙄🙄 In the US, at least, the Jeep is well priced too.
  9. My fav pic so far... Not to be outdone by the Chelsea tractor company, get me some wood... And some tasteful chequer plate effect all over the place...
  10. Not sure why it took 8 years to go from this... to what’s been launched. Looks like a mid life facelift of the original DC100 design that was slated so much at the time. It will be interesting to see how much incremental sales LR gets out of the Defender. I suspect it more likely to grab sales from Discovery etc. than from competitors.
  11. The first car to win the Paris Dakar outright in 1981, and winner of car category at the first Paris Dakar in 1979. You should also find out which idiot signed off using Morris marina door handles on the 4 door 😉😉😉
  12. WTF is with the paint effect chequer plate, 😱 now that it is a design step too far. It also encapsulates what the Defender has become for LR, essentially a Discovery with Defender design cues, and the branding that embodies adventure and all that is cool and great about that. 🙄 Interesting to see whether it results in incremental sales for LR or just eats into Discovery 5/Sport and Evoque sales. You kind of feel that with a price tag of £40K plus it won’t stack up against the competition from other manufacturers, so it will have to sell mainly on image. Something the Evoque has done well for LR. Expect to see a lot of Defenders on the school run and in Cornwall throughout the summer months 😉
  13. You could use suspension spacers instead of longer springs, and then use standard range rover classic springs. Remember that with the softer springs, you’ll get more roll, and with the extra height you may not find this desirable. One way to find out though 😀
  14. First you complete the NOVA import process on HMRC site. It’s free for importing in from EU, but you still need to go through the NOVA process. Then you need to get it MOT’d. Once this is complete you can send off original Netherlands Registration doc, Nova docs and MOT docs with correct form to DVLA for an import registration (You can order them here https://www.gov.uk/dvlaforms ) . As long as NL docs have confirmation of year of manufacture you’ll be ok, if they don’t you’ll need to get a heritage certificate from Gaydon to confirm year of manufacture, so DVLA can apply correct road tax. If permanently resident in UK, it’s illegal to drive it in UK, even with insurance. So you’re only allowed to take it to MOT appointment and back. As you’re moving back, I suspect you get some leeway on this, so you’ll need to check this. That’s it, fairly simple. Cheers Steve
  15. Or have them do a good job, get them back in one piece, and f**k the source and cost of their kit.
  16. I bought a DTW1002Z back in May, very good so far, only had a couple of nuts where it struggled initially. Much better value than Milwaukee equivalents. The usual high penalty for these type of impact wrenches is the weight and length. So I still use my compact Milwaukee 1/2” for most easy things.
  17. Given that it changed after an ignition cycle, it’s highly likely that it’s sensor related. Just which one/s? 😉
  18. I’m pretty sure that all BW’s are the same.
  19. I was being careful not to scratch the bores, but a common figure that kept coming up was 93.89mm cheers Steve
  20. ‘Thanks for the responses 👍 A few pics of the stripped block... The cleaning has started... This was after two 20 minutes sessions in the ultrasonic cleaner and a toothbrush.
  21. Thanks Jon I read that if you replace the cam with a new different one, you should get the block line honed. But I’ve no idea what that is. 😉 i forgot to ask, what about the timing chain and gear set. Should you renew all of these too? cheers, Steve
  22. So today I just stripped down the 4.6 v8 to rebuild. A few questions.... After reading up, I assume I get a machine shop to check the block for any issues and re-line the crankshaft and camshaft? I assume they’ll need the crankshaft and camshaft to do this. I’ll also get them to fit new core plugs and oil gallery plugs. Is there anything else? For the Camshaft, there are the high torque options, like the Kent 180 and the Viper stump puller. What are the implications on the tappets and push rods if you fit these? Also, do you need to fit pocketed pistons if you fit these camshafts? Is the recommendation to fit ARP stud kits for the crank and heads? Thanks, Steve
  23. Thought that some might find this useful...
  24. They must mark them heavily in Aus then, as the base spec Workmate 79 can’t be had for less than $70K, so about £40K. Jeep Wranglers in the UK appear to have benefited from Defender prices, as used prices are now a lot higher than just a couple of years ago. Jeep UK seem to have taken advantage of this and added £10K+ to the price of a JL compared to the equivalent JK before. So in the UK they’re asking about £48K for Rubicon, the equivalent cost ~$44K in the US. The new double cab pick up looks good...
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