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SteveG

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Posts posted by SteveG

  1. 27 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

    Think much of the public has, especially outside London. 


    The UK is one of the few countries in Europe that doesn’t incentivize move to EV vehicles and it’s still growing, stats show a different story to the Daily Mail headlines, with EV up 17.8% and PHEV up 39.3% in 2023. January 2024 was even higher with EV up 21.1% and PHEV up 31%. Used car sales for 2023 also up. The only thing holding up increased EV take up is high cost of vehicles and charging infrastructure, both options at people’s homes and on the move.

    As for China flooding market with ‘cheap’ EV’s, MG who is the largest Chinese EV seller in UK sells a car that retails in it’s home market for £17K for £34K in UK. It doesn’t cost an additional £17K to ship it, and extra duties, so there’s currently quite a bit of profiteering going on in UK market.

    IMG_3254.thumb.png.d49833b56f2ca89b2ab85e93283f0e51.png


    Used car sales in 2023…

    IMG_3252.png.2be85f3865ada86ebb2f75efaefe5bbf.png

     

    Sales of hybrid electric and plug-in hybrid electric cars were also strong, up by 40.0% and 25.1% respectively and, collectively, electrified vehicles represented 5.6% of the market – up from 4.0% in 2022. Diesel and petrol, however, remained the most dominant fuel types, with a total of 6,827,466 units changing hands – 94.3% of the overall market.2

     

    https://www.smmt.co.uk/2024/01/new-car-market-delivers-best-year-since-2019-as-fleets-fuel-growth/

    https://www.smmt.co.uk/2024/02/uk-reaches-million-ev-milestone-as-new-car-market-grows/

    IMG_3256.thumb.png.0d566be3a7726796c70ac8c7f38b3879.png

     

    IMG_3255.png

    • Like 1
  2. Might be worth trying the matte spray that folks like retropower use. Can you use the stick on reference dots too with your software?

     

    I see that P38’s still rust badly in the wheel well 😉😉😉😉😉

    IMG_3246.thumb.jpeg.92ea4b6292f7e539921fd8f1a5cd750a.jpeg

    • Haha 2
  3. 22 hours ago, Snagger said:

     The interior trim is being sent for valeting next week and then we can work out what to do about the flocking on the boot panels and the fabric on the front seat bases (where the cloth has unstuck from the backing fabric).

     

    I haven’t used them yet, so can’t personally endorse, but I was recommended this company for flocking…

    https://www.flockspeed.co.uk/our-services

    It was a recommendation I’d value and I’ve seen the end results which are very good and price seemed good value.

    • Thanks 1
  4. 2 hours ago, elbekko said:

    Made some progress yesterday :)

    Solved that issue :ph34r:

    received_732002012247306.thumb.jpeg.bbfc514e6f0e7809581da72c566df1ab.jpeg

     

    That’s looks to be a useful piece of kit Ben. Just looked it up and I see it does Canbus decoding too. That could be handy, along with verifying sensors. 👍

  5. In the UK, proof of ownership is typically a purchase receipt either from a trade business or personal individual. Then V5 is proof that the vehicle has been registered to be legally driven on UK roads. The V5 also clarifies the date of manufacture and taxation class for the vehicle, which in turn determines the amount of road taxation due each year. The two, owner and registered keeper, can be different, for example the owner could be a leasing/finance company and the register keeper the principal drive of the vehicle.

    V11 is just the annual road tax reminder and nothing to do with proof of ownership or proof or registration. 

    • Like 1
  6. 11 hours ago, elbekko said:

    Spent a fair bit of time on this, and thought I was making good progress... but alas :( Looks like all of the actual vehicle communication logic is on the Lynx/Omitec VCI itself, not in the application, it's just a thin front-end on top of some very generic communication where it gets a list of vehicles, a list of functions that vehicle supports, etc.

    That also explains the very generic (and bad) interface in the application, as it's built around the VCI communication.

    Oh well.

    Sorry just seen this thread - do you want me to send you my Lynx hardware etc. for P38? It’s just sitting in the garage doing nothing. 

  7. 2 hours ago, smallfry said:

    its not the infill as such, its the removal of the fillet that braces the spring pan to the top of the chassis, especially as it is the larger of the two. I would say this is structural, and a high stress area in hard use.

    Sorry, I get the question now - my confusion was due to nothing else being removed. Either all or some range rover classic chassis don’t have the fillets on the front, just rear…

     

    IMG_0925.jpeg

    IMG_0922.jpeg

    • Like 1
  8. On 6/13/2023 at 5:44 PM, Simon_CSK said:

    There is a 1992 LHD 2 door from Spain Just come up on Ebay. If I had the free cash at the moment I would but it for the shell and be ready to go with my CSK.

    I haven’t bought off him, so not a personal recommendation, but this guy is constantly posting in range rover classic Facebook groups with RR’s and parts that he brings back from his place in Spain. A few months ago he had at least two rust free 2 door body shells already in UK…

    https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100024917016942
     

    IMG_2348.thumb.jpeg.7832ffd565d629e41cb3f7bb5c8e26a6.jpeg

    • Like 2
  9. 13 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

    Daan

    I feel that mine if properly restored should be of higher value to that one because mine has unique paperwork with the car, and the original private registration.

    Not meaning to be negative, but just to add a dose of reality  - as far as I’m aware, no CSK’s have sold for £150,000 - I don’t recall even seeing one sell for over £100,000, so the price they are asking seems to be unrealistic. Graeme Hunt is always top end of the market in asking prices and even they balk at advertising very good condition CSK’s at over £100K. They currently have one for sale, asking for ~£97K. Obviously with companies like them and Kingsley you never get to publicly know what they actually sell for.

    I suspect if you auctioned a fully restored CSK today, you’d be looking at getting around the £80,000 mark rather than £100K+. It’s hard to tell as ones like the one linked above have failed to sell when they’ve come up on auction sites. So even this may be too high. 
     

    As advised before by several people, to get maximum offer/bid it would pay to pull it out and at least wash it, confirm that every part is there (or list if anything is missing) describe or show condition of interior and fully describe and show condition of chassis. 
     

    Again, not trying to be negative just offering a point of view.

    • Like 3
  10. 2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

    New oil boiler : £5k.

    And the grant is just another way of spending working class money on middle class families homes (as they are the only people able to afford heat pumps).

    Not sure this has ever been the case in the history of tax collecting in the UK, so I looked up the current stats.


    You’ll see from this image here that the bottom 50% of tax payers contribute 9.4% of income tax and NIC receipts in the UK, so as you can the vast majority, 90.6%, of HMRC revenue that is from income tax and NIC receipts is from the top 50% of tax payers.

    https://commonslibrary.parliament.uk/research-briefings/cbp-8513/

    D962825A-E7D7-47DC-B280-4887D0821482.png.5df852048d757c8f7f42b4e3b68557f1.png

    • Like 1
  11. 1 hour ago, Carloz said:

    So.. Just add a Defender 90 Chassis and we have no Hybrid issue any more?

    I don't understand why using a RRC chassis wich is shortend to about the same length of a standard 90 chassis. But well, it is done anyway.

     

    In the Netherlands there is the 1/3-2/3 rule: 1/3 can be changed when 2/3 stays original. Main parts are chassis (1/3), Driveline (1/3) and Body (1/3).

    So in this case RRC chassis (1/3) + axles / drive line (1/3) makes 2/3 original. Body of Defender is in this case the 1/3 "non original" part.

    It was simply down to the fact that RRC’s body tended to rust heavily whilst the chassis stayed intact. Defender bulkhead and body parts, at the time, we’re easy to source so hence lots of range rover classic/Defender bodied hybrids.

    • Like 1
  12. As above talk to someone like Ray at V8 developments or Turner Engineering, but I suspect they’d both say don’t bother. When I spoke to them, they both test your block before carrying the liner treatment and if they find any damage/cracks on the block they recommend not using it. Sending pics to them should get you a definitive answer.

    I have a complete gems 4.6 engine here that I don’t plan to use, but probably no use to you as you’ll only need the block.

    cheers Steve

  13. I put a bearmach in the range rover classic 3 years ago, and to me it appeared good, and the fitter was surprised it wasn’t genuine after fitting the screen, but if you read Eightpot’s experience they’ve either changed suppliers or the quality is variable. 

    So maybe it’s worth paying the £100 extra to go genuine. Think of it this way, that’s only a tenner a year 😉, although the 8 year old one in the TD5 90 was already splitting in the corners when I sold it, so maybe 10 years is ambitious, even for a genuine one.

  14. The reason I mentioned suspension is that it has a big part to play in maintaining traction, maximizing upward and downward travel from your existing spring setup will give you a lot more traction off road especially in dry, loose and uneven ground situations. For example if you fitted a kit like Gwyn Lewis’s long travel suspension, it would allow your springs to dislocate, the adjusted shock mounts and longer travel shocks would allow greater upward and downward movement. The benefits of this in off road traction can be significant.

    Apart from the damping change of the shocks compared to your existing shocks, none of this affects the on road handling of your Defender. Choose well, like the Old Man Emu long travel shocks and typically I’ve found they perform much better on road than LR or Monroe shocks. 

    You didn’t mention having anti roll bars front or rear, but if you do and want to keep them, then ignore the above advice. 😉 Then your best option for better traction would be to fit ATB’s/Lockers.

    For your centre ATB, it’s likely that there hasn’t been much support because most of the people here responding are used to using a centre diff lock, don’t find it an issue selecting it when necessary and the centre diffs are fairly reliable. So for most folks responding it’s low value, however, really it’s down to personal choice, if you want to fit one for the extra flexibility, greater reliability and removing some of the driveline shunt and feel that the invest is worthwhile, then go ahead 👍

    For the front diff, you mention that this is the weakest link. 2 pin diffs are weaker than 4 pin, which in turn are weaker than one with an ATB or Diff Locker centre, but this doesn’t mean they’re fragile. The standard open diffs can take a fair amount of abuse, and so far I assume it’s been reliable enough for you. If when you pull it, everything is ok, I’d leave it as is, and just go for a rear ATB/Locker only if you do want to go down this route after fitting your centre ATB.

    cheers 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  15. 6 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:

    Another experience:

    I used BFG MT tyres now for about 6 or 7 years. Since I am a traveler (avoiding really bad situations) I needed them in all these years for 2 times. But the entire time I traveled with loud tyres. In the situations I needed them, the winch also would have helped me. After the winter I will change to more silent AT tyres.

    If the goal is to maximize traction off road, you go for MT’s. If you’re going to compromise for on road efficiency/comfort then don’t 😊

  16. 12 hours ago, Peaklander said:

     @Stellaghost I don't want to rely on a winch - if I am going to spend anything, I would rather it helps with traction rather than sorting me out when I don't have any.

    Sorry to say this, but your view on a winch is completely flawed. In my TD5 90 I left the transmission as completely stock, open diffs, centre diff lock. I did however invest in the suspension and tyres to give me maximum traction as possible, fitted a winch and carried two waffle boards (You’d carry maxtrax now).

    A winch doesn’t have to be used just for when you get stuck, you can also use it when you know your going to have difficulty. To get through a difficult section you can opt for the winch first, using a winch and available traction means you can get over some very difficult terrain with good mechanical sympathy too. Add in a set of boards or maxtrax and again these are a real aid, either on their own or in conjunction with the winch.

    In order of priority this is what I’d personally invest in…

    Good set of mud terrain tyres

    Compressor - so I can air down tyres when necessary to get the max out of them

    Suspension - to maximize traction off road (obviously you need to also meet your needs for on road too/load carrying)

    Traction boards/maxtrax

    Winch and good selection of extension lines/strops/shackles etc.

    That would be my minimum setup for solo off roading. 
     

    Then if funds allowed…

    Rear ATB/Locker plus HD halfshafts 

    then Front ATB


    If budget was no issue

    Centre ATB

    Front HD shafts and CV’s

    • Like 2
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