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SteveG

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Everything posted by SteveG

  1. Don't worry Streaky, as they are on at the same time, Billing is only an hour away so you can go there if Newark is useless! :lol: And there's an upside, you now get to go to two shows a year Maybe LRM, should put on a beer bus between the two and bus people in to Newark for the day from Billing! ;)
  2. well enough while not going to a 3/2-Link. Which i don't currently want to do when still using this one so much on the road. Limiting factor on the front is the radius arms now, and I am more than happy keeping with the stock arms given the minimal gain a radius arm change would bring.
  3. Mine works like this, 2005 base model originally truck cab. I think all TD5 'commercial' models (base vans and TC's) are wired this way. Cheers Steve
  4. fine if you don't mind changing out the rose joints every six to nine months. Steve
  5. Isn't it Big Si? 2nd pic is Timmy Mallet
  6. V8's and water always check what's over the over side of the hill ;) .. it's what diff guards are for..
  7. Or better still buy some X-springs and don't limit travel at all. I'm running standard LR springs on mine with Gwyn's mounts..
  8. Simon - "It's ok, I'll get my own drink" Paul - "No, I'm sure I had another coke in here somewhere"
  9. I added 5 stars, good luck with the application. Although, as you are not female and wearing a bikini, you'll probably struggle to get the necessary votes ;)
  10. You are right to do this. Even with a small vibration it will still knacker the UJ's and it also causes diff pinion seals to go too. Ask them to explain why you are wrong. It's fairly straight forward, and hopefully pics below will explain this better than my text in post above.. The lift has increased the working angle at both ends Pic 2 shows zulublue's situation where fitting a lift with a standard radius arms will tilt the nose of the diff up and the flange is now at an angle. The diff nose being up slightly and the angle of the flange both combine to reduce the working angle of the joints. Slightly at the transfer box end, more so at the diff end. So adding kinked radius arms would lower the diff nose, but now create greater working angles at both ends. Back to pic 1. So adding adjusted radius arms are likely to introduce more vibration. Quite a few wide angle props are made with Toyota, Nissan or just bigger Heavy Duty UJ's and yokes like the GKN ones from Gwyn Lewis. By the nature of their design, these props are more tolerant to greater working angles. But if the working angle of your lifted Defender exceeds the max working angle of the wide angle prop you will still get vibrations after fitting these. That's why they fix the vibration in some cases and don't in others. So the only guaranteed way to stop the vibrations caused by greater working angles is to fit a Double Cardan jointed prop. Even these have their limits though. Hope this helps.
  11. He is right in a way, but his logic is wrong. It's due to the operating angle being too large between the two ends of the prop. This causes the vibrations. So the two ends of the propshaft could be parallel, but if the angle in between lower and upper ends was too large, for example you put a really big lift on, you would still have vibrations. Putting on cranked radius arms will bring your diff nose down increasing the angle causing more vibrations. So typically putting on cranked arms requires a DC prop, whereas otherwise you may get away with it. As you have the vibrations already then yes you'll need to fit a DC prop. Some of the more heavy duty wide angle props have a bigger working angle tolerance so these can work too and is why you get confusion with some people claiming that wide angle props fix this problem. In fact all wide angle props do is give a wider operating angle for the UJ's to work before they bind. It just so happens that some of the larger heavy duty props used for wide angle applications also have a bigger tolerance for working angles. Steve
  12. writing off a 10 month old Range Rover Vogue. I thought I'd better learn how to do it properly. ;)
  13. One of Paul's events at Slindon... DD is stuck on the other end of the winch line with his broken PTO. I think it was his first winch challenge too. Cheers Steve
  14. base models have a ...270 model 10AS which as you have spotted doesn't have the CDL relay or CDL pinouts on connectors. You can either source a 10AS ...280 models which has CDL or modify a 270 one. Here is a link courtesy of DieselJim that describes how to do this.. CDL MOD Cheers Steve
  15. Or you can fit to Boosts. You need to adjust lock stops to stop the tyres rubbing on the radius arms and you'lkl have a slightly wider turning circle. Or buy some Wolf steel wheels. On a standard suspension set up you'll won't get any rubbing. With a modified suspension set-up you will get some rubbing on the plastic arches when off road. Easily solved with some light trimming of lower edge with a stanley knife. Cheers Steve
  16. Hi James Can you put me down for 22nd please. Cheers Steve
  17. I bought the hose reel and impact gun when they were on special last year and both were good buys, especially the hose reel. Steve
  18. IIRC, standard height on a 90 between up and lower spring mount is about 260mm Cheers Steve
  19. As you don't need to work on it while there Tony, I would have thought the suggestion of two strips with grass in the middle would not only look better, but would save money too.
  20. I assume it's a 90. If so most of the bouncy sensation is down to the shorter wheelbase. If it's mostly road use, I'd keep it at the standard height. You can fit a 33" tyre with no problems on a std height Defender. Adding a lift can cause various other handling/steering traits that you may not be happy with. If the springs and shocks are the originals, at 83K replacing them will make a big change. Go for Gas dampers and again you'll notice an improvement. If you decide to replace springs and shocks, check condition of spring mounts, front shock tower, and shock retaining rings before you start. If they look very rusty change them out. If you are feeling flush, then it would be also good to change out suspension bushes, all track rod ends, and steering damper. This will tighten everything up and it won't need touching again for another 80-100K Ultimately, if you want to stop any sinificant bounce you can fit very heavy duty springs. This stops it, but will also give a harsh ride, so you may not be happy with the end result. Cheers Steve
  21. Coming out of Cambridge at about 8am this morning on the A603, a traffic police car had pulled over a car and one of the officers was taking pics of the car windows where there was about a 12" circular hole scraped into the ice on the windscreen on the drivers side, and two six inch areas scraped from the side windows where the mirrors were and a rear screen full of ice. Going by the pics being taken, he was getting a ticket for it. I was thinking at the time that's a rare site to see someone pulled over for it, but good for them for giving him a ticket. I wonder what they were doing him for?? Cheers Steve
  22. If that was the last time it was used, you probably have rusted and seized parts in your motor. Check all of your earth connections first and if ok strip your motor a give it a good overhaul. While you are there it would be good to service the winch too. Before you mount it back on check that solenoids are working ok with a multimeter. If ok check motor operation. If no good , replace motor or get it repaired. Hope this helps Steve
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