SteveG

If for an engine change it makes sense to lift body off, then it’s a no brainer to swap the good body over. In the context of a D3 the body is not considered a major components in points system, so it would be considered a modification, and you not need an IVA, and no issues with registration, just colour change with DVLA as you’ve stated and requirement to have the vin number clearly visible.

btw these are the specs of the 1 way and 4 way blue sea isolators.. Specifications Cranking Rating: 30 sec. 1,200A Intermittent Rating: 5 min. 600A (UL 1107) Continuous Rating. 350A

So, I’m putting 2 batteries, same make & type purchased at the same time in the range rover classic. I would like an isolator switch that isolates both batteries. I don’t need to split supplies, and I’m mainly putting both batteries in so that I have the extra capacity when winching. In the 90, I simply had two batteries wired in parallel, with a single isolator connecting to mains supply. This worked fine for over 8 years before I sold the 90 on. So I’m fine with doing this again, but equally realize that it’s better for the batteries to be isolated from each other when not in use/charging. So given that I want to use both batteries when winching, I can’t simply put a vsr in between as they’re not rated for potential loads. So I thought of a couple of options, but are there any better? Option 1.. Wire both in parallel, with a manual isolator switch on main 12v supply, and an Albright isolator between batteries, that’s switched from a vsr, so the extra battery will always be available when the engine is running. The vsr will be there anyway for front and rear heated screens. Obviously if I ever had an issue with the main battery, I’d need to switch out/re wire the extra battery for starting, or wire in a manual override switch for the isolator fed from a 12v supply connected to the extra battery. Option 2 is to use a 4 way isolator switch (already have a blue sea 350A cont one sitting here) to use in the following way... Position 1 on isolator being normal mode, where vsr connects extra battery when charging only. The vsr is only rated to 140A so again I don’t want to use this for winching, so position two is used where both batteries are connected in parallel permanently. So in this scenario, I’d use position 1 the majority of the time, and just switch to position 2 when I thought I’d need to use the winch. I realize the 4 way isolator is only 350A continuous, but in practice that should be fine even with winching - thoughts? If that’s viewed to be a problem, I can use an Albright as my main isolator in option1. or any better suggestions?

They’re cameras, any car that has 360 view has them.

You could look at turbo, waste gate and inter cooler setup first, as white smoke is sign of lack of air mix. Obviously could be your injectors not providing enough diesel, but you can verify whether your getting enough boost pressure, waste gate is operating ok etc. to eliminate this first. For example, even a loose or disconnected intercooler hose would give the symptoms you discuss.

If you’ve been monitoring ones for sale, you’ve probably already noticed this, but most of the ones from France are in pretty poor condition and tend to have a lot more rust than those from Portugal and Southern Spain, so personally I’d focus more effort on those two countries, although I’m sure the odd gem does turn up in France. There’s a Facebook group for 2 doors... https://www.facebook.com/groups/RangeRover.2Doors/ with members from across Europe, so worth asking there is anyone can recommend one for sale, and you may find a fellow enthusiast nearby that’s willing to check out a potential purchase for you. Enjoy the search 👍

I can totally understand that point of view, for me it doesn’t have to be logical. I don’t plan to sell the RR, so I’m building it to how I want it to be. I’m completely re-wiring it from scratch and I personally like the neatness, flexibility and functionality that these PDM devices offer. I’m fitting the 10” screen too, using gps Speedo etc. and assuming meqasquirt supports it, I will feed the engine data via canbus stream so that I can access engine sensor data etc. through the screen too. I’m also using the canbus keypad too. The data logger may prove useful too. Naturally, I don’t need the track telemetry, mapping and timing features, so part of what I’m paying for is a waste, but I don’t see another system that offers all of the aim capabilities for that price. I don’t expect it to take really harsh treatment and constant dunking, but equally for its Motorsport applications, it hasn’t been designed as a soft delicate item and Radical has been impressed enough to make it the core of their production vehicles. These devices are not new and already have an established track of reliability, so personally I have no concerns. (I’ll see if that comes back to bite me 😉) I’m not recommending it for off-road use, and if contacted I’m pretty sure AIM wouldn’t either, although I do understand they OEM supply a few ATV and quad manufacturers. So not for everyone, but for me I hope it will prove to be a good solution. https://www.aim-sportline.com/en/products/pdm32-pdm08/index.htm

I’m fitting one of these to the RR... https://www.aimshop.com/pages/power-distribution PDM32

I’m fitting one of these to the RR... https://www.aimshop.com/pages/power-distribution PDM32

You mean the 1st gen and 2nd gen RR sports?

Yes it is, not sure why you’d be using anything but in this day and age. PVC hasn’t been used in automotive manufacturing for the last 20 years at least, probably more. Not sure why Autosparks would recommend it for a new loom build. PVC has less chemical resistance, lower range of temps and as you can see about half the load rating.

Not sure where you sourced your data from, but multi-stranded single core copper wire will give you 16.5A for 1mm2, 25A for 2mm2 and 33A for 3mm2. 👍

For the air suspension, best place to start is to overhaul your compressor and valve block - only takes a few hours and kits can be ordered here... https://x8r.co.uk/ These cause the majority of issues. Then you can check bags, making sure they are in good order, especially where they fold over at each end. You can also check pipes for condition. Then if you have leaks, you can isolate then them and if necessary swap out bags/pipes. ECU rarely fail and tanks can corrode, so worth a once over.

Just retired to spend time with collection and they’re considering moving it to a new location where it can be displayed permanently. They did look at someone else taking the service/parts business over to give employees continuity, but obviously that didn’t work out.

Side profile of new 90, looks all wrong to me. Too much length in bonnet, and front doors and not enough in rear. Add in Gerry’s stupid ‘rigidity’ panel and it’s even worse 🙄 ‘Plus you can get more kids in the 110 on the school run 😉😉

Surely if you buy a new chassis with receipts you don’t need to prove anything as this satisfies the legal requirement.

How about contactless then... Alexa, flaps down - Sorry, I didn’t understand that. 😉😉

Hi Tony They’re JW Speaker speaker 8700 dual burn headlights in chrome - also available in black. So not the cheapest option of e-approved LED 7” headlights. cheers, Steve

Personally not a fan of the chassis in one paints as they don’t work. Fine for touching up chips etc. once you’ve done your chassis, but they don’t provide the protection they claim if you use them direct to metal. So, if your going to all the effort of cleaning down the chassis to bare metal, use a good primer first. Corroless S has worked well, but any decent brand of red oxide primer will do. Best primer for not rusting I’ve found is bilthambers zinc rich Electrox primer, but that will work out expensive for a whole chassis. If I was doing my chassis again, I’d be tempted to use 2 coats of electrox, and then quick scothbrite, wipe down, etch prime and then finally 2 coats of black upol raptor with a 1.8 or 2.0 primer head on an hvlp gun. A cheaper way, would be to use a primer like corroless S and then spray 2 coats of black raptor with the Schultz type gun. This later method gives a rougher, but more absorbing bed liner finish.

What’s happened was entirely predictable, and is basically a result of LR getting too greedy. They wanted their 3 brands, Range Rover, Discovery and Defender to each have multiple vehicles and capture as much of the growing SUV market as possible. The problem is instead of toughening up the Discovery brand to make it more rugged/adventurous to reinforce that brand perception of LR, but also make it appealing to a wide audience of families, young, old etc. and differentiate the discovery from other car makers. Instead they’ve softened up the Defender, so as it’s been said numerous times before the Defender will do well, but in doing so it will most likely kill off the Discovery brand. They should have kept the Defender name either for small volume tough off-roader either as a separate vehicle or as a more rugged version of the other vehicle ranges, like Mercedes does with AMG. Have their Nurburgring SVR version if they must, but also have a paired out off road ready version too. Now you’re going to get a V8 SVR Defender that can lap the Nurburgring in under 8 minutes 🙄. The new Defender Sport (if that’s it’s name) will become the “entry level” for the Defender brand in the way that the Discovery Sport is for that brand and Evoque is for RR. Basically a smaller, ‘cheaper’ version of Defender. This will probably have the effect of killing off the Discovery Sport sales - I think this is their current biggest volume seller. So the end result is you have Jeep, Ford and potentially Ineos doing a better job of building an off road/adventure vehicle, with the risk that this further dents the LR brand value. Add into the mix electrification, where going forward the main difference between vehicles will be how they look and the software, not how they drive and you question whether LR can survive. They’re not exactly well know for their software prowess. Instead you have companies like Rivian demonstrating better off-road/adventure abilities for EV’s.

I get all that, but again not sure what point you were trying to make. People were commenting how expensive the Defender it is. The Hilux’s, Rangers and L200’s you mentioned being leased in your post will all be a lot less over a 3 year lease compared to a Defender. I just looked up an example for a 3 year lease, 10K miles p.a. and 1 month upfront payment... Defender 110 - £793 p.m. https://www.vanarama.com/land-rover-van-leasing/defender/3-0-d300-hard-top-hse-auto-10066.html Top spec Wildtrack auto Ranger - £375 p.m. https://www.vanarama.com/ford-van-leasing/ranger/pick-up-double-cab-wildtrak-2-0-ecoblue-213-auto-9948.html so more than twice as much for the Defender in this example, or over £15K extra in lease payments over 3 years. To buy the 110 costs about £50K with no extras, the Ranger £33K so about 1.5x (probably get a higher discount on Ranger, so no doubt higher ratio). All prices ex VAT.

I’m not sure what point you’re trying to make here as leasing costs are directly proportional to the purchase cost and the residual value at the end of the lease term. So for example a £50K car that’s worth £25K in 3 years is going to cost twice as much to lease as a £25K vehicle that’s worth £12.5K in 3 years. Now I get the fact that a £50K vehicle that’s worth £35K is going to cost a lot less to lease than a vehicle that costs £50K and is worth £20K in 3 years, but that didn’t seem the point you were trying to make.

If you fancy a project, you could build your own frame and create the equivalent of these for a 2 door ... https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/uk/storage-systems/gullwing/front-runner-gullwing-window-aluminium-land-rover-defender.html

32” with no rubbing, 235/85 16 is popular or 33” with a little, trimming of the plastic arches will remove most if not all of it. 255/85 16’s are a good size, but now more difficult to get decent mud tyres in this size. Ashcroft lsd or arb locker in the rear will help, and is probably the best you can do to avoid getting stuck.

It is very much ironic though Mo 😉 and it’s designer is moronic 😉 🙄🙄