SteveG

good run down of switch options is here... http://www.reedx.net/landrover/mods/2002dash/index.htm My 90 is a base one, so no stereo, just plastic shelf. So I made up a plate to house more switches..

No they don't! :P :P

Lots of minor tweaks and changes to engine, electrics etc that made it slightly better to drive and slightly more reliable than earlier models. Also minor dash change that is a benefit too, especially if you want to add accessory switches etc. Lastly ECU became flashable so if if you want to remap later on it's typically easier/cheaper. Cheers Steve

The last one on Chris's list looks to be a really good price. If you can afford it, go for a 02 or later Defender Yes, available on it's own or part of cold climate pack. IIRC it's been an option on all TD5's. It's easy to retro fit to a Defender without. Steve

If you count the driving to and from the car park, it's about the same as the G4 ;) ;)

Ashcrofts recommend this for their CV's... Morris K48 CV Joint Grease K48 grease is manufactured from a Lithium soap base and highly refined mineral oil, with added Molybdenum Disulphide to provide protection against seizure in conditions when ordinary greases would fail. Also included in this grease are additives to stop corrosion, rust and oxidation. Additionally this grease shows excellent resistance to severe mechanical working.

TDS 9.5

If you straighten them, they won't work as well. They are supposed to be round. ;) ;) :P

Did either of you two read the site? This has nothing to do with stopping people from working on their own cars. Steve

When I looked a few months ago, everyone seemed to be about the same. I bought set of blue magnecor leads and NGK platinum plugs from www.spark-plugs.co.uk that had free shipping. Very prompt to ship. Cheers Steve

mine was easy to fit. Only problem was that sunblind holes were in the wrong place for a late TD5 roof, so I had to re drill new holes. Other than that, it was very easy to fit front and rear sections. Simple to keep clean, mud just wipes off. Takes knocks ok, but will get scratched if knocked heavily. Better than tearing headlining though I went for front section with cb/stereo fitting and speaker mounts and would recommend this option again, especially in a truck cab where space is tight. Cheers Steve

spam, is an often over used term and can be confusing. Just to clarify, this is what a link to spam looks like... SPAM Given this clarification Mike, I think it's clear you were not linking to spam, or 'spamming' as it's often known. Steve btw I read it in the newspaper that 'dogging' is not linking to sites with dogs - just to clear that one up too.

good for you :rolleyes: 7J is on the limit for a 11.5" wide tyre. You'd be better off with a wider rim. Steel Modulars, are cheap and have a good offset, or another good steel with a decent offset is Mach 5's from Devon 4x4, a lot pricier though. Steve

Do you really need to relocate your ECU?? If you are moving it for wading I wouldn't bother as you still have you 10AS ecu on the bulkhead. A simple fix would be to silicon seal the holes on the base of the ecu. If you are moving it for your tank, can't you fit this externally in the big space under the drivers seat box? If you do decide to move, yes take off battery leads before starting. Steve

"Times a good healer" by the time of your next job, you'd forgotten all of this. ;)

My better guess ;) Front wings if complete - £200+ Pair Hardtop with sides - As it's the later TD5 ribbed roof, £200+ Rear Door complete - If it's a complete one piece post 2002 rear door, £175-250 or if two piece £40-100 ebay is your best bet for selling all of these. Steve

try phoning local dealer, price is normally around £200 inc mark from a dealer. Steve

according to this months mags, yes it is as of Jan 2009

I wouldn't, have a drive of a Disco 3 with coils and then with air and you'll notice the difference. Plus if you are carrying loads or ever tow you'll appreciate the air suspension. Plus your vehicle has not been type approved for this, so for such a major change to your vehicle's road worthiness you could be opening up a real can or worms should you have a serious accident. Given the way the law courts are you'll probably have to have your RR SVA'd to have a piece of mind. Steve

mmmmmm, RR are not alone, a lot of £50K plus vehicles have piping and polished wood. It seems that's what most customer want. Steve

I had a TD6 Vogue for about 75K miles and drove a 4.4V8 for a couple of days test drive before buying TD6. From this experience.. Consumption- TD6 will be about 6mpg better ( so for every 10,000 miles a year the V8 is going to cost you about £180 a year extra in fuel) Reliability - V8's were more relaible. I had injector issues, Driveline issues and you get idle vibration issues if fit 19" or bigger wheels. May have been fixed with later TD6's though. Ease and enjoyment of driving - V8 is better. Easier to driver, better acceleration for overtaking, quieter and the ZF auto is better than GM gearbox in TD6. New the TD6 was £10K less, had better depreciation and had better mpg, so I went for a TD6. Buying in your position, I'd go for a V8. Steve

In one of the mags over the summer, I saw that Foley Specialist Vehicles did a very good restoration of a classic RR. They also have a long established reputation for good work. Steve

From personal experience, on l322's this tends to be symptoms a faulty height sensor in most cases. Can be reset, or more often than not needs replacing. Best thing to do is get it on a testbook/diagnostic kit and see fault codes. Steve

options are to drop the tank or cut an access panel in tub floor. IIRC DieselJim and GBMUD might have dimensions for you to cut panel. Steve

Check fuel pump fuse and relay