SteveG

You're just jealous of their super fabricating skills, especially the rear bit! ;)

320 a pair including delivery back from Russia was the price back in September when the pound was fairing better against other currencies. There's another link to an install here.. Michele's HID's Cheers Steve

Don't worry Paul, 'Luvvers' is a nickname for Dave Lovejoy Steve

You didn't help that promise by deciding not to drive ;)

Just to point out that Ashcroft's didn't make original post, so above comment is a bit off the mark. If you read the original Pirate post you'll see their reason for posting now at this early stage about a forthcoming product. As for talking in detail about modifications, looking through post Dave hasn't said he won't divulge tech so Al, you are jumping to conclusions there. Lastly this discussion is about a product offering that isn't even finished or released, so if Ashcoft's didn't want to talk about details at this stage that would seem reasonable to me. Steve

MOT tests are tougher in your area Congrats on build James, and in double quick time too. Steve

Nope, that extra 10% over standard 205's makes it great on road in my opinion. In standard trim I think TD5 Defenders are slightly undergeared, so putting on the 255's makes it good for main A roads and motorways. I had a stage 1 remap last weekend by Ian (Porny) at IRB last weekend and it's even better now Cheers Steve

Devon 4x4 have been running them for 18 months or so in their 110 trayback, haven't seen them elsewhere.

Only mentioned it as RR had same kind of squeak when under load, no vibration though. I also remembered that input bearing in front diff had same kind of symptoms, again sounded like it was coming from gearbox area. Cheers Steve

I'd look at idle bearings too. Steve

From the products I know about, prices haven't gone up at all since change, doesn't mean others haven't though. Steve

all ok here too, thanks for getting it sorted. Steve

re-trim kit was from Trakkers, www.trakkers.co.uk Exmoor no longer sell direct. Steve

Was this in your days of working for U.N.C.L.E fighting Smersh?? ;) ;)

Yes it is. It's been in for almost three years now and very good.

I bought a re-trim kit for my 90 to replace existing vinyl seats with Outlast Black Canvas covers and new foams. Kit comes complete with new rubbers, bars and fixing studs for base seat and multi purpose adhesive for both base and back. Also instructions .. Started with back first (Glad I did as base was harder ). undo plastic clip on back.. unravel 3/4's of the way up.. so that you can unhook the three hooks that pass through seat foam.. Pull cover off fully and carefully peel away seat foam from frame.. Spray foam and fit to seat frame, then spray back of frame to secure foam flap at top of frame.. Turn new cover inside out and place on foam but remember to stop to put 3 hooks on.. Pull seat cover down and then the fun starts. You now have to pull cover down enough to close this gap. The bar at the top is just far enough away to take the skin off your knuckles if you slip! .. A short while later you'll be able to close clip and start on the headrest. Start by undoing metal bar at base of the headrest.. remove the staples and then the cover.. Pull on new cover. I then used spray adhesive to glue it down and trim around headrest bar. Finally place metal bar back on and screw down.. da da, one finished seat back and headrest.. Now for the seat base. Like the back, it's a lot easier to take off the old cover than it is to fit the new one. Remove rubber strip around base.. remove bar at back by simply pulling through.. remove plastic studs with some needle nose pliars.. LR hold the cord in by placing it in the final hole at rear of the base and then hold in place with a plastic stud.. Carefully pull off old foam and cover and then spray seat base and fix new foam.. Leave it to dry a while and the turn seat base cover inside out and glue cover to centre seat base.. Leave this to dry a while too, and then start to stretch the cover over rest of base. Push down cover enough to get the cord into the securing strip and then with your third hand bang rubber strip into place Easier said than done. Carry on all the way round until it looks tidy... Pierce some holes in the cover to enable you to push through plastic stud and then hammer them in.. Tie the cord and pull the rear flap down and hammer in the last two plastic studs. Then place the rod back in.. One finished base... One down, and one to go - Repeat the above... both done.. It's straight forward, and Exmoor's instructions are clear. I just thought I'd post up so that people would know it's ok to fit them yourself if you wished. Cheers Steve

No Mo, Leather is for RR's I went for Outlast black canvas that Exmoor use for their military orders. Keeps you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Here's some quick pics.. Out with the existing denim twill covers and in with the new.. Each seat took about 2 hours to do. Main time consuming activity was stretching the canvas to fit well and fix in place.. Here they are in situ.. Cheers Steve

don't worry now, box arrived this evening and I've started to do them. Oh what fun they are too!

One of the LR mags did an article on the Defender re-trim kits in the last few months. I seem to remember it having some good fitting tips, but can I find the copy. If anyone knows which mag and which month it was in that would be helpful. Thanks Steve

Spotlight is cheaper and available in pink! .... spotlight in car rechargeable LED torch

If you want these type of alloys with wide rims then best place is US as there is lots of choice. You won't find any LR stud pattern, but plenty in Toyota, Jeep etc and then you can buy adapters from Rakeway to fit them to your LR. Or other way is to fit some Toyota or Dana axles

you'll have more luck looking for rims not rhims. ;)

Ive got a Surefire E1L Outdoorsman and it's an excellent torch and compact too. Only downside is price. I bought mine when pounds was at $2 in US and cost me about $70, now you'd pay about 70 pounds in UK for one. Steve

I vote for leaving them on Had them on the 90 since it was new, and I get noticeably less brake pad wear as a result. You do get the odd stone trapped but it's not that often really. I used to go through a set of pads about every 6-9 months in the hybrid, now they last 18months to 2 years. So if you spend a lot of time in mud then I'd vote to keep them on for the better pad wear. Cheers Steve

at 10.13am this morning when trying to post a reply to Nige. and a page load error about 5 mins ago on main forum index page when loading for first time. Cheers Steve