SteveG

A useful tip for the bulkhead ones I was given was to insert the bulkhead bolts and tighten up leaving just enough gap for wing to squeeze in. Then when you put wing back on you can tighten the ones you can reach and the difficult to reach ones will still be tight enough to hold the wing in situ. Steve

Yes they have a single stud (M12 IIRC) to hold them. I've made up some temporary brackets for now, and I need to get some more robust ones made up. Mine are bolted using two M5 bolts to the grille tubular supports. as I couldn't find a suitable place to mount on bottom or side of grille. Yours should be easier to make up as you can attach them to your tubular wings. I think you'll find it hard to make mounts now without having the lights to get position etc. I have this pic of when I was mocking up position.. Only pic I have of them in situ showing temporary bracket is this one... Cheers Steve

TD5 Temp gauge works in increments and is not linear, so this may be your problem. Have you let it properly heat up for gauge to move to left of middle position for normal engine temp?

Switch doesn't flash Steve

If you are worried about the cost of smashing a window/door lock to then find out they can't steal it, leave the doors unlocked. ;) I think you have enough security measures already. Steve

I've bent modulars a couple of times. One time in Wales Chris, GBMUD, bent it back with a hammer for me. Both times on rocks. I really bent one once beyond repair, but that doesn't count as it was from an Astra flying into the back of the 90 on road The real problem with modulars and BFG's is them letting in debris between tyre and rim. I used to have loads of slow punctures because of this and one time had three at once after a days off-roading. Since fitting the wolf to the BFG's I haven't had any. Cheers Steve

I shipped an ep9 a few months back and without wire rope a fairlead it was 29kg, so TDS is going to be about the same. For the intended use, a simple TDS 9.5 and bumper install would be ideal. Another vote for David Bowyer too as I've had good service when buying. Steve

I assume you want them in chrome too?

disco steels are your problem as they have deep backspacing Changing them for something like Wolf rims would be better. John, headhunter mentioned recently that AJS 4x4 had tubeless wolfs in for £25 a rim iirc. Steve

An 8274 may not be a wise option on a vehicle with air con as it will stick out a long way. You'd be better of with a lowline winch. Steve

BFG AT's or General Grabber AT2's would seem to be an ideal choice for your sort of conditions. Hard wearing, good traction on and off road, good braking attributes and both good in wet on tarmac. Noise of both is low, with AT2 being slightly better in my opinion. Have a set of AT2's on a P38 V8 RR and they are not noisy on that, so you won't notice them on a Defender. Steve

Yeah it's just the way the video makes it look. The camera adjusts it's sensitivity to the brightness. Believe me they give a good wide spread You can see it best in 2nd video where you have side, then dip, then full beam. The full beam appears like a focused beam, then the HID's come on and it gets brighter, plus when they warm up you can see there's a lot more flood light than the previous full beam. Steve

I took the 90 out last night to try the lights out. Even though it was just on some local lanes, there's potholes, drainage ditches and brook/river crossing to test lights out on. HID's performed very well, giving an excellent amount of lighting and no problem with visibility directly ahead or to a good distance. Personally I'm not a fan of the banks of lights across the windscreen, so this isn't an option for me. I've used Xenon's before off road when they were on the P38's I had. They worked on both dip and full beam so I knew how good they could be off road, and so I knew if I was going to go for additional lights upfront I would want Xenons. The only problem was price. Jez's, although not cheap, compare favourably with good halogens like lightforce units and are very well priced compared to good quality Xenon units. I'm pleased with the install and how they work which is the main thing, and yes Ryan if I should find myself in a shootout, I know that the lights will most likely survive ;) Cheers Steve

seems we are not getting value for money from our monthly hosting fee. Cheers Steve

I would think quick fists would be a pain for a Hi-Lift, as you'd have to prize open each one to push Hi-Lift into them. Fine for taking off, but a pain to put back on. I used some M12 bolts, large washers and some wingnuts. Quick and easy to take off/put on and bolts make it easy to slide Hi-Lift on to... Used quick fists for spade though.. Steve

OK here's a couple of videos of the HID's working. I'm putting these up with the caveat that videos don't really show off brightness. First video shows side lights 1st (don't register on video) - my sidelights on Defender are the sidelights on plus a dull main headlight Then headlight dip Then the HID's are switched on Then Defenders standard lights switch off... 1st Off-Road HID Video The I did a second video closer to hedge to try and show brightness, as the 1st video wasn't even registering the sidelights on.. Different process this time using full beam too.. 1st sidelights Then headlight dip, then full beam Then the HID's are switched on Full beam off Then Defenders standard lights switch off, so just HID's 2nd Off-Road HID Video Cheers Steve

Jez, Dollythelw, is able to get you a set if you need them. Drop him a PM and I'm sure he can sort you out a set. P.S. the 90 sailed through it's MOT last April, with the no. plate that's been on there for almost 3 years now. I'm happy to leave it there, as it causes no danger to anyone and I know from the congestion charge cameras that it it can be read ok for car tax/insurance checks etc. Steve

hi James I made that one from some ally plate that Ralph, western, kindly sent me. It's held in place by some strong magnets so it can take it on and off easily. LR supply two panels for that opening. One is flat with a standard DIN stereo opening, the other is for base models and is an open plastic shelf that you can put stuff in to slide around in and fall out I have one of the later if you want it. Cheers Steve

You need to get a 110 then. 110 projector

Unless you can get an xp cheap, an EP9.5 or TDS 9.5 motor would be a straight swap. Can't recall specs, but if you look there is not much between them and the xp. Steve

Does this mean you drive around with your lights off then David?

In a good mood today Tim?? Well if you mean it's illegal because it doesn't have the BS mark and suppliers details stamped on it, then neither does the plates I bought for the RR in April from Halfords. Otherwise it conforms to all other reqs. Cheers Steve

Last weekend I fitted the Xenon HID lights that Jez brought back from Russia - thanks Jez. I decided to fit them in the grille area, rather than on the bumper, to get a higher position for the beam... I have each of them angled out to give a good wide spread of beam. As you can see in the pic above, the lenses on these already have a 'fog' pattern to spread the beam of the HID bulb... Hopefully they are recessed enough to stop an errant tree pushing them into my intercooler ... Wired into a Carling switch, bought from X-Eng, that I put into vacant slot in switch panel.. Just need to get some more robust brackets made up for the lamps now I have position right. Didn't take any pics of them working at night as they don't usually come out that well to show true difference. Take it from me, these are bright lights. A pair are more than enough for me and do the job of illuminating ahead off road really well. Very pleased so far. A couple of more pics, Steve..

I've been using one shot grease in EP9's for a couple of years now and it works well. You'll use about half a tube per service. Cheers Steve

Back of the engine, you'll the the black tuning looped over.