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SteveG

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Everything posted by SteveG

  1. Sorry, can't make it now, have another Rugby festival to go to now on 22nd. Does mean I can use my R&R pass to go to SS the weekend before now so not too bad. Steve
  2. steering stop are a bolt located on front of each swivel housing. Undo lock nut, and screw bolt out a few tuens to give less lock and stop the rear of your tyre rubbing on the radius arm. Once you have ok position just tighten up lock nut. The reason your tyres are rubbing is due to the use of disco steels. These don't have very good offset. Fitting a steel wheel like a LR Wolf type or common aftermarket ones like modular/8-spokes would give you more steering lock with your 265's. Cheers Steve
  3. If you are considering the OME N73's, then based on my experience you will notice the improved damping. I changed out the Rough Country's for N73's and there was a vast improvement in damping. If the RC's are supposed to be better at damping than the procomps then you should notice benefit. As for travel, you should not lose any of the procomp's. The pic below shows a Rough Country and OME N73 side by side, and if the RC's have the same travel as the procomp's you won't lose any travel with the N73's. If you choose to fit the N73's, wouldn't it make more sense to fit a set of Gywn's rear galvanised mounts? At £48 a pair inc, and knowing that trial and error of position etc has already been done, this would seem to be better than modifying your existing mounts. Steve
  4. Land Rover, 90 Heavy Duty if you plan to carry a lot in back or standard ones if not. Cheers Steve
  5. I bet your own offside rearish had some worryingly strange noises too after your night of beer. ;)
  6. Very true Bish, The hybrid came with and still has, unless Tim's changed them, -2" mounts all round and +2" DeCarbon shocks. Again it's had no problem as far as I know and it's certainly had some abuse. With the 3-Link on the front end, both suspensions get a workout off road too. Cheers Steve (+2 Gwyn Lewis mounts all round :P )
  7. I'm sure you know this already Nige, but I'll bite. A new 8274 will set you back about £1100 inc VAT in UK. 8000lbs capacity, 4.6hp motor A new TDS 9.5 will cost about £340 +VAT (or inc VAT at show prices) 9500lbs, 5HP motor, a EP9 and Come-Up are about the same price, an EP9.5 about £50 more As for depreciation, I recently sold a two year old EP9 for £175. 8274's in reasonable condition about £300-350, good £500+ So for about the price of three TDS's you could buy an 8274 that will have less capacity and slower line pull rate and about the same depreciation rate as a TDS etc. Sources of spares for both winches is easy, both have about the same weather proofing, TDS is lighter than 8274 and low profile gives more fitting options. Now if you wanted to compete in winch challenges at the top level you can upgrade an 8274. So in my opinion, unless you want to compete with a fast winch and have the £'s to upgrade it, the 8274 doesn't make sense at all. Cheers Steve
  8. The problem with the 12k winches for off-roading is they are slower, heavier and if you are fitting it to a land rover, then 9k or 9.5k will be fine. Steve
  9. Vince Cobley will know, as he has them on his 110 DC Cheers Steve
  10. Are the wheel spacers for the mach 5's?? If so, are you sure you need them? Most Mach 5's are made with enough backspace not to need spacers, especially for 265's Cheers Steve
  11. That's not the case with the Safari drives. It's held on private land. Steve
  12. If thisis for TD5, you just need tubing as you have push fit connectors already. You need 6mm OD tubing. I ran new tubes from axles into engine bay. Cut existing transmission tube and used Y piece push fit to combine transmission and front axle into one. Then ran rear axle and this combined tube up snorkel. If you do the same you need about 7-8m of tubing Steve
  13. A safety devices fuel tank guard I had for the P38, came with a thick sheet of foam. Filled up space to keep mud out and stopped any vibrations too. It was fine when I removed it 3 1/2 years later with no mud and no water and no rust- but, P38 tank was plastic though Cheers Steve
  14. all booked up. and for those camping I spotted this last week, when I bought some -20 Nanok sleeping bags.. Nanok Special Forces Cold Weather Suit This is an excellent cold weather suit made by Nanok it is reversible and comes in Olive Green/Sand. The suit consists of the trousers,jackets and sleeping bag socks. Cheers Steve
  15. Date is no good for me anyway, but I'm not sure I'll bother with Bures, as the people that bought it seem to be making a right hash of running it. IIRC they bid a price that Peter felt was too much to be economical in running it (he should know) and so he didn't bid. The new owners first attempted to get clubs to run days there and their friendly and informative site seems to give a clear amateurish message out. Hopefully their organisation on the actual day will be better. Cheers Steve
  16. Sorry, not sure I understand your post. You drop it into a garage on 12th August for a service and were happy to wait until 6th October to pick up. Somethings wrong if they needed more than a day to service your Defender. Unless you gave them permission to do the work you should only be paying for service and mot pre-inspection. Did you pay by credit card? Or even debit card in some cases? If so then this may be best route to get money back.
  17. the action is pretty much the same 'cam' type action as the EP9 just with a different shaped handle. It's the fact that once the freespool is engaged the drum moves a hell of lot more easily than the EP series, making freespooling no effort. Another vote for TDS here, especially as they are typically 60-70 pounds less than an EP9/9.5 too. Cheers Steve
  18. If I bought a Defender I didn't know the history of, I would do the following.. Change all fluids.. Brakes, Coolant, Clutch, Axles, Engine, Gearbox, transfer Box Change Air filter and Oil filters Check.. Brake pads for wear Brake discs for wear Bearings all round and re-grease them all if ok. Re-grease/oil hubs. Propshafts for UJ and centre spline wear. Replace if necessary Handbrake, clean and adjust Battery connections Lights for corrosion around bulb holders general condition of outriggers, rear cross member etc Shock and Spring mounts Springs and shocks Bushes on all suspension/steering arms Pipes and belts in engine bay That's all can think of for now, I'm sure others will add ones that have been missed, but it should keep you busy ;) Steve
  19. I spent 7 1/2 hours outside in the wind and rain at a Rugby tournament in Cambridge yesterday, and it rained for about 6 1/2 hours of that, so yes it did rain quite a bit yesterday ;) If Violets lane was that deep, you should have tried Standon ford on the way there. Would have had your arses wet too! ;) Steve
  20. You are right Neil I do, had it for almost 3 years now. It seems expensive, but it's one of those fit and forget products. Does what it says, is very durable/easy to clean and look ok too. I went for lining that had stereo mount and speaker mouldings.. It's worth the money in my opinion. Only problem in fitting was that pre-drilled holes for sun visors didn't line up on my TD5, so I had to re drill some new holes. Cheers Steve
  21. Yes it is a double beadlock. They cost about £70 each in US and seem to vary quite a bit over here in Europe going up to £150. Devon 4x4 were most reasonable when I looked with each costing about £115inc. They are very popular in US, less so over here. Steve
  22. Find the wheels that you want and fit Staun beadlocks Steve
  23. When putting Simex back on, I'd sometimes use a spade under the tyre. Saves the back and makes putting a heavy tyre & wheel combo back on easier. Steve
  24. In lower housing you will see a plate on drum side. Simply lift this out and you can pull off the drum. When you say that you've bent the drum, what part do you mean? The end plates of the drum? Steve
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